Crank trigger bracket
 

This is for all my Pontiac friends that have motor plates with a crank trigger and trying to mount it with the plate.A friend drew this up on his cad and his son then machined it,it turned out killer! I’m mounting mine on the drivers side but can be milled so it mounts on the passenger side like most do also! I’m gauging interest in how many people would like this done for theirs,he’s still deciding on a cost to do it also at this time,let me know if interested! I talked to his dad and he said if u can include a return shipping label,he can do them for $125

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1H7m...5nyHjYQKR/view

That’s rad! Very nice piece :cool2:

The fit in this is Awesome,he’ll also mill off 1/8” on sensor bracket so it aligns on trigger wheel perfectly!!

does he offer anything to fit a non-motor plate setup, with stock cover?
so how much better is a crank trigger vs distributor?
more better for higher rpm?
i spin 6k-6500
wondering if i'd gain anything going to a balancer with magents and going crank trigger
but i don't want to deal with pulley alignment issues and what not
my setup is more pro-street and strip when/and if i can
I don't really see timing bouncing or anything with my current setup
is a crank trigger more beneficial with a solid type of cam?
just checking to see what others results were when changing to one
sorry don't mean to hijack this

Don: The Crank trigger will give you rock solid timing when looking at it with the timing light. No timing bouncing around on the balancer.

You take your distributor and lock it out. You adjust timing with the crank trigger sensor.

The balancer with the magnets will definitely help with pulley alignment as the crank trigger plate with magnets is like 1/4" thick moving pulleys forward.
After installed you phase you distributor cap to the rotor with your timing light. You cut a hole in distributor cap so you can see where the rotor contact point it when it fires.

Ken at the old PPR had a dyno. He made some runs and then made a change, crank trigger.
It was worth 7 HP.

Don, So I was thinking about this, this morning.

A crank trigger signal for timing is much better in my opinion as like I've stated it's rock solid. Reason is you eliminate the timing chain and sprockets, distributor gear, Cam gear, out of the equation. This is was causes the timing to bounce around as the engine shakes when running. In the higher RPM's, maybe not so much bouncing around but I seen it with a timing light. Your taking a solid signal from the crank as it turns and sending it directly to the msd box or distributor. Hope this makes sense.

That seems like a lot, wonder how much play he had in his dist.

Not saying that he didn't see 7hp increase, but that had to be from just getting the timing where the motor liked it, not just from changing to a crank trigger. All your doing it switching from one trigger mechanism to another.

The position of the crank sensor determines just one aspect of timing. It requires appropriate electronics to provide advance functions. Don't forget to take the advance into account as you set rotor phasing.

Yes that true. I was just generalizing and trying to help the guy out and get him started in the right direction since he posted on the 14th and no one offered up any help. I use a 6AL-2 programmable box to tailor my timing. This guy explains how to set timing with the 6al-2 box. I scratched my head when I first was setting mine up. I finally figured out you have to subtract timing on the curve.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FvLkCpq8y7o


Thanks for the info Jack.

Seemed like a lot to me also. I would think 3-4 HP but I doubt Ken would use a sloppy distributor.

It was the same total advance. The way I understand it is your timing is much more stable and accurate with a crank trigger and that is where any increase come from.
I have never run one but I do have a MSD crank trigger and a BOP front-sideways distributor setup given to me by a high level bracket racer.
He took it all off and went to a nice aftermarket HEI setup. Much more simple, works just fine and he did not see a ET difference. 5-7 horsepower it would be hard to see anyway.
So I do not know if I will ever use the stuff either just bracket racing. I did my own test at the track years ago. Used PMD distributors. One with points triggering my 7-AL and another using a distributor with a Petronix setup and their coil. I used the same exact advance springs in both.
Ran the same ET-MPH with both so I sent the Petronix stuff back. Run points to this day. I tested the points (cast iron) distributor on a Sun machine once, spun it up to the max, kinda scary standing next to it. But it never had one hiccup.
Run that distributor ever since and have not had a ignition problem in my life at the track. The points contacts do not wear with MSD. Just keep a eye on dwell and I guess the spring could wear at some point. I run the 8000RPM points and I am never going to build a engine that can make them bounce anyway.

Hey guys lets not mess this thread up please! I get the discussion part but maybe start a new thread so this doesn't end up locked! lol

My apologies Darby..

Not your fault, i just was starting to see where it was going lol