Progression Ignition tunes
 

This can be the place to talk about Progression Distributor(s) and to share your ignition tables that work for you and your combination.

I just got my HEI setup and running and would love to see what others have done and would like to share.

A lot of what can be done hinges on these details that you should post up about your car.
1) CID.
2) compression.
3) Cam.
4) rear gears.

Very good point. My combo: 455/TH400, 9.2:1 compression, Comp xe268h cam, 3.08 rear.

I don’t have one yet but I may pick one up in the next month or two. I’ll be following this regardless

Can we add:

Carb) brand & size

Intake)

Look forward to the progression and the trends/differences with builds.

Sent from my SM-G988U1 using Tapatalk

461/9.7 static comp
6X4 approx. flow 250cfm
850 MD w/annular
T2 w/1” tapered 4 hole spacer
700R4 w/lockup
3:42
Crower solid flat tappet approx. spec w/1.65:
244/252@50
0.525/0.551
112 LSA
91 Octane/ 0% ethanol

After a lot of testing (still not done though) heres the best map so far with my combo.

What cylinder heads?

I edited my original post to add head info (keep it all together).

Thanks, my timing requirements changed dramatically when I switched from 6X to Kauffman D ports.

Thanks for sharing this table. I have copied it to my car and made some changes to add a little more timing at low speed, medium vacuum. So far it is working well. Still needs some more tweaking. But I like it.

Has anyone used the Aggressive mode when creating a table? it seems to move all the timing numbers up quite a bit.

New guy here. My Progression distributor arrives Friday and I'm looking forward to putting it on. Been doing a lot of reading on timing for this car, just trying to come up with a base curve for starters. Here's my specs...

461 (original block)
Eagle forged rotating assembly, balanced
9.75:1 compression (verified by builder)
Original #12 heads, completely rebuilt but not ported or worked over heavily, screw in studs.
Original iron intake
XE284 cam. I know it's not well loved here, but my builder (Rick Johnson in Crete, IL) swears by it so I trusted him. I do run high ZDDP oil (Lucas Hot Rod).
Quadrajet built to the engine specs (supposedly)
3.55 rear gear
M20
no AC
I can only get 91 octane here, so I've been mixing to get 93 or so. Would love to be able to run pump 91.
Car currently makes about 9 inches of vacuum at idle. and likes about 20 degrees initial advance. I had to back that off to 16 due to hard starting. Yeah, that's an electric vacuum pump for the brakes.

Any suggestions for a base curve , or some tips would be most welcome!

Currently shooting for 20 initial and 34 total, all in at 3200rpm. I'll bring the total up and RPM down if it seems to tolerate that. Car seems to like to idle around 650-750, and I like the lumpy idle down there, so win win I guess.

This is a street driven weekend fair weather car, will probably never see a track. It was a full rotisserie restoration so I just have too much money into it, and it's sentimental to my wife (her dad's car).

My first suggestion would be to set the idle at 850 to 950 rpm..to get the vacuum higher, I personally like a cleaner higher idle then a blubbering low idle especially with any sort of cam. Also remember timing and fuel mixtures go hand in hand adjust both. Does the ignition have a start retard? That may help you run a higher initial advance. A good idle in my books is one that can sit at a stoplight for minutes with zero issues..not one in park at a Dairy Queen that sounds good.
Good luck..report back on the progress!

You're right about the idle. For some reason I had it in my head that it should be around 650, but that is low. It will idle there all day long without loading up. Part of the reason I've had it there is because with the current dist, the idle hangs once the car is warmed up. It will go back to normal once it's shut off and restarted, but I have not been able to track the problem down. I think that the center shaft in the current distributor is hanging up at just the last bit of travel, and not resetting the timing all the way. It was gone through and still does it. Anyway, I'll likely set it around 750-800 once I have the new distributor in.

Start retard capability is built into the Progression distributor.

I would start off with 32 total in light of your 9.75 comp/ iron heads and the fast cylinder pressure rise of the 4.210" stroke.

I got my distributor installed this afternoon, started up, and sent a table. I think I've been consuming way too much internet and overthinking everything.

Given the details on my engine above, thoughts on this curve/map as a start? Idling at 800, but it doesn't just stay there rock steady, moves around within maybe 30rpm of 800 up and down or thereabouts. Unfortunately due to weather I can't take it out for a test drive right now but she seems to start up and idle nice.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/BfjiidcdfuW46NVA6

Got my distributor installed, idle set, table created and sent. Thoughts on the below table for the build I listed above? It's idling at 800, not steady which I think I should expect due to the cam, but between maybe 770-820 or so.

Any advise or feedback is welcome. I can't take it for a test drive right now due to weather unfortunately.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/BfjiidcdfuW46NVA6

Just ordered the HEI version of this. I'm wondering if I should talk to my engine builder about using it for break in and dyno pulls/tuning or just have him use my current dist and then I would install this myself. My concern is if he hasn't used one before is it going to complicate things for him vs just let him do his normal process?

I'd ask him; tell him what it is. If I were a builder I'd be pretty stoked to be able to input exactly what I want for a curve in, rather than dealing with weights and vacuum stuff. Plus I'd get to try out the tech for free. The interface is super easy. Or maybe he's old school and isn't interested, which is fine too.