New Trunk Weatherstrip Install
But before I install the new, I have to safely remove the old W/S. The paint is nice so can't use any chemicals too strong. Any recommendations as to what methodology has worked well for you guys?
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Use a heat gun from the underside
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3M makes a product specifically for this, doesnt harm paint & will soften up the old glue so you can wipe it off with a rag or usually a little more effort with a old toothbrush or nylon brush. Should be able to just pull off the old W/S or try heat from underside but be careful, too much heat will damage the paint.
I have some of the 3M left and can get the part# if needed. |
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And make sure it installs the correct way, don't trust what just came out as being correct.
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Follow instructions on the can & it works great & should not damage the paint, Ive used it on numerous trunk weatherstrips as well as T top channels. |
Wondering what the factory spec was for the location of the trunk weatherstrip seam (where the ends meet)? My seam is located at a 2 o’clock position, which so far has avoided moisture accumulation at the typical 6 o’clock location. Anyone have a picture of an original seal installation for reference?
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I was able to cut some clean cross sections from my old molding and only the Ames FK201C matches pretty closely, but is a simple extrusion, not coated and noticeably less soft. Any more ideas on finding a more accurate product? |
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If not doing a NOS type resto, Ive had very good results with the Metro brand trunk seal, door seals too, looks & fits nice & has held up for almost 15 years & counting. |
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As mentioned, original join location was just offset to side of latch.
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In terms of removal, it's been a decade - or almost four - since I did mine on my '63, but I used 900 PreKleano (RM wax & grease remover). Over the years, I found that it worked better than Ditzler's or DuPont's stuff. It didn't melt what was left of the original weatherstrip, didn't hurt the paint (okay, I had to re-wax, but hey...), and did a nice job of releasing the adhesive. ISTR that I used a plastic filler spreader to work the thing loose.
The other advantage to this method is that assuming you have no paint work to do in or around the groove, you should end up with a surface which is well prepped for new adhesive. Mine has held for 38 years so far. Oh, and I'd have to look, but I think I laid the seam at about an inch off 6 o'clock. GL HTH |
>>>> VIDEO BELOW <<<>>>Ames stopped selling the "skinned" with latex many years ago due to their being fragile.
One day a friend, who has a couple Formulas, and I took at look at cross sections and installs ( dry) between us we had 4 seals to try.. one was late 80's generic . The ONLY seal we found that has the correct profile, and is SAME dimensions , is the one sold by 1 a auto. This video shows the part number AND he installs it in his own Pontiac. This seal passed the dollar bill test, and doesn't make the trunk too tight to shut easily. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ikBDF4xRdw8 |
Then I could always splurge on this one!! No doubt it's correct.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/176220573076 |
Hey rick, I have some NOS if you’re looking for that
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PM sent. Tell me more.
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