does anyone have a picture of 63 tempest/lemans std shift pedals they could post?
 

I don't know what pedals are installed in the car I recently bought but all three pedals are very close together. They look like they may have been intended for a Cobra or something like that. I will post a picture in a bit.

John,my car is on the lift,will get a pic when I can drop it.tom

thanks

OK this picture is dark but these are the pedals in my car. Both the brake and clutch arms are bent towards the gas pedal and this jambs all three up against one another. If the brake pedal arm had been straight down and the clutch angled to the left there would have been distance between them. DK what these pedals came off of? I have a chance to buy a set of original '63 Tempest pedals but haven't seen them so don't know if they would fix my problem. I of course could get other pedals and cut and weld them to what is in my car but would rather put some in that fix things without me having to do any welding. I assume the pedal arms are hardened steel and welding may affect this.

From the inter webs . . . . Looks way better than what you have there.

Thank you and oh yes, way better. When you hit the brake in my car you have to be careful or you will also be pressing on the gas pedal. Not good. I wear size 9 1/2 shoes if they were size 12s I'm not sure I could press on the brake pedal without also pressing on either the clutch pedal or the gas.

Sorry but this is all I have. I’m out of town and this is all I have on my phone.

Thank you I'm going to buy the tempest pedals and see if they will work with the mounts under my dash. Then I also have a set of '66/'67 Fairlane pedals and I'm pretty sure they will fix my problem if I weld them to the shanks that are in there now. I will come back and post a picture of what I end up with.

The mechanical clutch linkage is unusual, The pedal rotates a piece that crosses through the brake pedal and pulls rather than pushes a rod that angles down through the floor. It’s hard to describe, but I can provide pictures Monday if you’d like them.

Thanks but I don't need them. This car has a hydraulic clutch, tko600 trans and straight axle rear end so differs from an original setup. I need to leave the assembly that pushes the rod into the clutch master cylinder as is and just find a way to move the brake and clutch pedals away from the gas pedal and then create some distance between them.

I’m putting a TKO600 in mine as well and originally thought to fabricate mechanical linkage, but after seeing the amount of room for exhaust, starter, steering shaft, and clutch, I’m leaning towards hydraulic too.

You're welcome to come down here and look at how they did this car if it would help you do yours. I also have all of the receipts, etc. from the build of the car so know which brands and models of components they used. I need to get my 2 post lift freed up before you come so we could put the thing up on the lift; it sits too low to crawl under it.

I appreciate the offer and might take you up on it at some point. I already have it in my mind how I plan to do it, but you never know what’s going to work until you get to that point. I’m still mocking up a bare engine block to figure out oil pan crossmember clearance and engine mounts. I can’t do the clutch master cylinder until I can see where the heads will be.

61-63, I would be very interested in this hydraulic clutch set up too. Please take some pics and post up as soon as you can get it on your lift. Much appreciated, Rob

I will do that. If may be after Norwalk.

Here's a close-up of the factory pedal spacing. The second picture shows the bracket that crosses over the brake pedal and pulls on the factory linkage. I plan to attach a fabricated bracket to the two threaded holes and use a pushrod from that to a standard universal 3/4" bore clutch master. I believe there might be room to mount to the firewall, or possibly mounted partially inside and just the end protruding thru the firewall as needed. With a remote reservoir this should be doable.