Plastic welding vs filler on Endura bumper?
 

I have a large 1" gouge missing from a my Endura bumper. Would a chunk of 3M 5887 flexible 'bondo' do the job?

Or would plastic welding make a better repair? Anybody tried plastic welding? This Polyvance kit looks interesting stuff!

They use it on generic PU bumper in this video clip (Endura is a form of PU) :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rUV1qpnKxlg

Heres a Goat Endura nose in their blog:
https://www.polyvance.com/blog/Endura-Bumper-Repair

Heres the weld kit. Expensive but cheaper than buying another bumper
https://www.polyvance.com/Airless-Welders-1/5700HT/

Any comments guys?

Post a pic of your gash

Here you go

She lost an eyebrow...

I hear good stuff about the 3M flexible fillers and Ive seen some guy on youtube fill huge holes on his TA with it, but kinda think maybe theres a better way?

I would still use the 3M repair. Works wonderful and sticks.

It must be flexible or it will crack. 3M makes good stuff.

Use the 3M 05887
On this nose the jack slipped out of slot as car rolled forward. I decided to eliminate the jack slots. It has 4 coats of SPI Epoxy, which will be blocked and recorded. The 3M 2 part sands very easy and remains flexible. As per Barry at SPI, I stripped the nose to bare rubber before using the epoxy. This filled in tiny cracks and you CAN flex it without cracking.

I used this bumper because its straight, Many used ones you find are bent, and do not fit well.

Looks like a lotta love for 3M!

Bruce did you use any staples or or similar to support the filler and give it strength?

My main worry about the 3M is that when any filler is used in a big chunk, the chunk is quite heavy which means it’s got to adhere to the substrate endura super well, as it gets lots of vibration during use (pot holes etc)

I was thinking about putting a couple of screws into the endura to give it some ‘skeleton’ to help hold it all together?

Other than that I was just gonna use some metal tape as the base to start building the filler on.

I used masking tape in back. This 3m repair is A epoxy, its light, just needs tooth to work. So rough edge with some 60 grit is fine. This sands like a dream . I use the 2 part container in my 3m gun. This costs, but you get a perfect mix every time.
I start with 80 grit on a DA sander, put on another coat to fill in any needed areas, then use 120. I wait 2 hours before sanding anyway. This stuff shapes extremely well. You will need to block the primer and make sure the rubber is bare around repair. SPI epoxy is what you want.

Thanks!
Let the project begin!

I’d use the SEM “Bumper Bite” with layers of fiberglass cloth smeared with the bumper bite to fill up most of the void. Then use the bumper bite to smooth it over. Just think of that fiberglass cloth as “Rebar” for strength..as opposed to a big chunk ,that could fall off. Then strip the cover to bare rubber…and get the PPG bumper adhesion kit….contains a sponge with a cleaner wash….then a treated tack rag…then one coat off PPG one choice plastic primer….then 3-4 coats of 2k primer…block..and reprime with 2k primer…scuff with 400 and base/ clear…or single stage. I wouldnt trust epoxy to stick to bare rubber. I paint raw bumper covers all the time…and NEVAH used an epoxy primer over raw plastic/ rubber

I guess a video of me flexing my bumper where it was full of small cracks is in order!
I have used PPG and I love the stuff, But the 3m/SPI combo is fast and works. You have to blast the epoxy off the rubber or dig it off with a knife is sticks so well.
SPI has been use for Endura Bumpers for over 15 years successfully .
The 3m Adhesion kit was not developed for rubber, but I do like it and have used it.
99.9 of all Bumper covers do need Adhesion kits/promoters, and are NOT rubber.

Muslcah I like that fibreglass idea.

are you putting the fibreglass matting on dry, or dipping it in fibreglass resin and then layering on top of the filler?

I guess when it dries the filler does the same job as the resin?

Not using resin …..I take the pre cut fiberglass cloth and smear the SEM bumper bite into the cloth ,on both sides and apply as many layers to fill MOST of the void. Make sure you put a coat of bumper bite on the bumper area …before you apply the first piece of cloth….like laying down bathroom tile

3m is good but the SEM products work just as well & when i did my endura repair the SEM was much cheaper priced & available in 2 smaller tubes vs the gun needed for the 3M stuff, not sure if 3m comes in smaller tubes but the paint shop i was using didnt have it, only the bigger mixing gun.

SEM flex weld worked excellent at filling a 1"x1" gouge & many smaller hairline cracks on the top that these noses get. sands easily & smooth. i used an epoxy primer also but not SPI. once filled, vibrations & pot holes etc will not make it come loose, its permanent.

The 3M does come in smaller tubes. Also, the SPI epoxy is flexible forever and will not crack from vibrations, etc. over time. That's all I used over the 3M before paint and it worked great.

Once you finish the repair I highly recommend SPI Epoxy... The **** is like magic!