Hi compression starter
 

Hey everybody,

I have a 13 to 1 465 and using E 85 – I have an IMI high torque standard version gear reduction starter.

When in the heat in staging I get really stressed sometimes to start and stop when moving the car - especially if it stalls and getting it restarted. Usually does fine but not always – especially On hot days.

Does anyone have a recommendation and or suggestion about race duty starters – perhaps knows about the differences in the top end IMI Starters?

Thanks again, Craig

What is you timing while cranking?

Maybe you just need a starter retard or ignition switch to let the motor spin up a little before firing?

Similar situation myself with my E-85 463. I'm planning on going to a RobbMc starter this winter.

https://www.robbmcperformance.com/pr...c_starter.html

I have a starter retard 10 degrees and 36 total.
Thanks, Craig

A separate ign switch from the strarter really helps. Absolutely the best thing is put a 16v battery in. Starters love the extra volts

^^^^ all the above ...PLUS instead of another switch to hit for the ignition you could wire in a delay relay for your ignition power.

I use a relay for the starter solenoid.

You need more start retard. Is it adjustable? If so 20 degrees start retard will help.

IMI makes a few starters, might want to see if they can upgrade yours
do you have really good battery cables? i'll assume yes
i like the upgraded IMI i have now, forgot what its called or the part number, but Butler had it
however i am using dougs 1 7/8" headers so there is "breathing" room around the starter so to speak
but i do have locked timing with no retard, and no issues, but again i'm also just slightly under 11:1

iam 15 to 1 no timing retard. xs starter and 16 volts,spins over like the plugs are out

What do you have to do to convert to 16 V?

I also have a switch for the Starting timing retard for 10 or 20 and the distributor rotor is phased. Some E 85 Racers say that more than 10° retard makes it harder to start.

The motor does kickback when hot so I've used an ignition switch to switch on once the motor is turning over and still will stop Or slow down.

Do people use the a body frame for the ground from the engine to the battery in the trunk or do they run a separate cable for the ground?

Do people have experience with the RobMc performance starters and how the additional starter support for motors that kickback?

Thanks, Craig

I'm an exception to the "normal race car" as I use efi and coil near plug, but I ran my battery ground from the trunk to the engine block 00 cable like the positive. Mostly for ground loops, but helps with cranking too in my opinion. Also I use 6° advance for cranking timing all the time whether on gasoline or E85. I switch back and forth at will. Try the 20° retard before throwing money at it.

nothing buy a battery and charger,best investment you will ever make

suggestions - where to buy?

If you run an alternator, do some research on how 16v will work with the current one. Likely to need something different. Even 14v batteries need an upgrade to the alternator to work well.

With the H-O trunk mount battery kit we included 37' of 00 gauge fine wire welding cable. Had the customer run the ground wire directly to the starter bolt.
A quick test to see if the problem is timing related, disconnect the ignition and crank.

I used the exact same 00 gage fine wire welding cable in my 64 GTO for years.
A very good welding shop had it and it was not expensive.
Only change I made was to use a Ford Solenoid on the fender with a 00 gage wire from that to the Horn Relay Starter Connection.

I used the spare tire "loop" to hold the remove-able Battery Box in the trunk.
I ran a -4 ground cable from the battery box to a bolt on the Bellhousing to the engine.

Tom V.

Tom 4 AWG?
Thanks, Craig

4 AWG welding copper cable.

Tom V.