From E-Heads to KRE High Ports
 

Hi all, first post here.

I've run my car on E-heads for years and from many of runs and methanol, the seats are just worn out. Excited to say my KRE High ports showed up last week. Jeff mentioned I'd need a longer push rod, so I'm wondering if anyone in here who made the switch knows exactly how much longer?

I use the retro-fit Morels, Hydraulic roller. My old set-up used a 8.95" push rod and i actually had to use the Ford Windsor style rocker arms (harland sharp 1.6) for proper geometry on the E-heads. I would measure, but everything is at the machine shop and I'm just trying to get a head start on a correct push rod length.

Thanks.

I run crower 1.65 rockers and started with a 10.3 and had to go to a 10.4. Also had to use lash caps . That was with standard height hipo crower solid roller lifters as well.

Just a little tid-bit to be aware of. Not related to pushrods. When you switch to the High Ports: Be aware that the timing cover to intake water crossover will no longer line up. It will be a mismatch of about 1/2". You will need to plug the passage in the intake or crossover and the timing cover. This is much easier to do with the parts off the engine. (Ask me how I know?)

mine took 10.3 with crower lifters

I'd like to add that the heads are "taller" by about 1/2" and you can run into hood clearance issues if your air cleaner/carb assembly was close to begin with. If you are running a Victor and its close, you may need to switch to a Northwind. Great head though :thumbup:

They KRE now have a water cross-over for the High port heads I believe. http://www.krepower.com/Pontiac%20Intakes.htm

Thanks for the heads up! Was trying to think of what all needed to change with the intake being raised. I have a 6" cowl hood and the 3" air filter was already snug - found a k&n that was just over 3/4" inch shorter. Luckily I kept some old passage plugs from old blocks, so I can drill/tap/plug those holes.

Looking forward to seeing how these heads perform vs the edelbrocks. With my current combination, the fastest my 428 has been was 6.44 @ 105. The smaller chamber HP's and actually having the cam degree'd right and more flow, I'm hoping it'll go 6.30s in good air and 6.40's through the summer.

KRE sells the matching crossover and its cheap. 90 $

http://www.krepower.com/Pontiac%20New%20Products.htm

I know you can plug it but I just wanted it to work as intended. I think it looks better too.

Thanks for the tip! Supposed to arrive tomorrow morning.

Eric

keep us posted on your progress
i thought about a head swap and using these heads and was wondering the same on the pushrods
you using shaft or stud rockers with the new setup?
i think that has an effect on the length????
i was thinking these heads because of their 56cc offering

My engine has Crower SFT lifters, Crower 1.65 rockers and we bought valves and springs suited to the SFT cam. 1.800 installed height.

My pushrods ended up being 10.100". 10.3 or 10.4 makes sense if you have the taller valves for a roller cam.

Eric

More often than not they are typically set up around 2.000" installed height.
And the valve diameter and stem length tends to be a bit heavy, keep that in mind with spring pressure to control the valves.

Valves to consider:

F1250P
F1251P

https://www.ferrea.com/pontiac-compe...ne-valves/p534

On my HP castings we used 2.230 titanium intake valves and 1.700 stainless valves, both 6.250" in length.
The springs were Manley 221448 at about 2.100" installed height used in conjunction with a 50mm custom Bullet Racing Cams solid roller with 0.850" / 0.817" gross lift.


.

I have run the 1.8" installed height springs with the E-Heads for years WITH A SFT CAM
and never had a valvetrain issue. Like that installed height spring.

I run the PAC Valve Springs made by Peterson Spring in Three Rivers Michigan.
My Uncles Pontiac Dealership was 1/4 mile from the Peterson Spring Engineering Center.

Good choice Eric.

Tom V.

My set-up really underutilizes the capability of the heads, but another reason I jumped on board was I could eventually put them on something more radical. I bracket race and that's about all I do.

I'll be used 1.6 or 1.65 harland sharps stud mounted. My cam is a 248/254 .563/.584 112 LSA Hydraulic roller. 428 block, should be around 13:1 compression now. I have a nitrous kit on it, but haven't ever sprayed it wide open. From the 330' on I've laid on it and it went 6.24 @ 113.

Hoping to get my heads and engine back next week so I can put it all together , get the pushrods coming and take it out for a test n tune prior to the season starting.

keep posting updates please
it's helpful
was the time and mph with your current setup?
you using a dome piston, and what CC and flow did you go with on the KRE?

Kauffman high port crossover came today. Nice quality casting. Machined angle fit the heads perfectly. The 2 mounting bolt holes required some slotting to line up correctly. O-ring fit/height was excellent. About 1/2 hour grinding and fitting and it's good to go. Nice piece for the $.

That was with my current set-up (worn out E-heads with minor port work). I use a standard icon forged piston flat top. Went with 64cc and standard flow. Had to cut cost as much as I can, money is super tight but it was either buy these and feel good about my heads and make race season, or keep get a full valve job done on the old edelbrocks.

I dropped the long block in last night, probably a good 4 hours left to fire-up (put transmission in, button everything up, etc). Wish I could fire it tonight since its the nicest day we'll have until Wednesday, but spent too much time chasing my tail on some nitpicky things. I also ran into some snafu's with the heads.

The water jacket holes were kind of burred and I guess the cheap tap I had wasn't cleaning the threads well and it boogered up one of the steel 3/4 NPT plugs, so that should be here today. I also ran into an issue where my Aerospace vacuum pump bracket doesnt line up with the holes on the heads (angle is right, but the two bolt holes are about .4" off length wise), so I'm going to have to think of a way to fabricate something for it to work. As close as the hole is to the remaining material of the bracket, it's going to be tricky.... and I'm probably overthinking it lol. Any picture or ideas you guys have would be appreciated.

Ended up only needing a 9.35" push rod - interestingly enough the 0.4" the bolt holes are off on my bracket was the exact length my push rod needed to be longer... what are the odds lol.

thanks for the updates and good luck. what part of TX? i'm in Alamogordo NM
i'm very interested in what the changes did for you
i seriously have an itching for the 56cc heads, and KRE said i wouldn't have piston/valve clearance issues. i wasn't sure cause i know eheads with stock pistons can/do

what port flow did you go with and what intake you using? i may have missed some details so i'll recheck this thread

I would like to hear your results

EHTTFMF