Opening up my 67 scoop.
I want to cut out the scoop on my car. The scoop is painted so I need to be careful. How have you guys done this.
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Drill holes. Cut between the holes with a die grinder or dremel.
K |
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You'll burn the paint from the heat of a abrasive wheel grinder, been there done that many years ago. The casting is fairly thick, plus the horizontal ribs make it even thicker. There is no easy way to follow the curve at either end cutting through the ribs without some type of a burr as Keith has said, the burr doesn't generate as much heat as a cutoff wheel does. Opening up the casting isn't a fun job, and it's tedious.
Screwing up the finish on the opening, is probably why some of the castings got painted flat black after the paint got messed up during the project. The flat black spray bomb hides a multitude of paint sins......;) |
I have one already opened in grey primer. If you are interested I can take pictures of it tomorrow.
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Attachment 593783I've done a few of them over the years, and found an easy way, and it leaves the ribs intact. I take a die grinder with a cut-off wheel and make passes along the back side of each cup until the rear of the cup is removed, leaving the ribs. It only takes a few minutes and looks great. The weird reflection on the hood is the blinds on a window on the house.
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May I ask why you want to open the scoop up?
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Yeah, I opened up the scoop on my '66, too. I always thought it was kinda silly for the GTO to be sold with a hood scoop that was for decoration only. For such a prominent styling element on the the car to be fake is a disappointment. By now we all know that the aerodynamics of the car don't lend themselves to any sort of "ram air" effect, but getting cold air into the carb in conjunction with a carb pan that is sealed to the underside of the hood is still a good thing.
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You wouldn't want to drive your car in the rain with an open forward facing scoop, especially with the air pan installed. Remember that these cars were designed for daily use, among worst case customers. (Also - the '64 "scoops" were fake, too). K |
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As an alternative to cutting up your original part: might I suggest running no nose piece?
Our car was trimmed to leave the minimal amount of edge, coupled with the trimmed hood inner means you can stick both your arms through there. Like this (red car shown for contrast): https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1657646313 |
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Also FYI, I have an open scoop and ram air pan on my '66 tripower car. I've dynoed my car hood open and closed, and it loses almost 20 RWHP with the hood closed, because the stock scoop opening is too small to feed air to that engine (@ 400+ RWHP). It starts pulling a vacuum through that tiny scoop inlet. I didn't glue my seal to the pan for that reason - when it starts pulling vacuum, it pulls the side of the seal in to grab more air (albeit hot underhood air). Another reason to not glue the seal is if you're caught in really heavy rain, you can plug the scoop openings and remove the pan seal to get home. Finally, for the OP, I drilled holes then used a fine coping saw to cut mine open. Final trimming was with a die grinder and sanding roll. |
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This question might also get some good responses in one of the 2nd gen T/A forums, as there are a lot of opened scoops there, as well. |
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I actually have two hood scoop inserts (one open, one closed) and I plan to keep the extra one in the trunk. If I feel truly compelled to do so, I can swap the open insert for the closed insert while on the road and on carry on. But most likely I'll just remove the foam and jam my socks in the open scoop. Most of our cars probably never see rain at this point in their lives anyway. Quote:
https://i.imgur.com/y0C9bXHh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/2XRMpYjh.jpg |
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The original ram air pan, as fabricated in PMD Experimental metal shop: https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1657662470 The car which was used to develop the ram air package: https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1657662516 https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1657662605 The hood was already cut and the battery already mounted in the trunk before we picked the car up from Royal in September of '64. This is the letter that authorized us to run the ram air set up in 1965 NHRA B Stock competition before it was released to the public. http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d.jpg~original |
^^^Neat!!
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https://i.imgur.com/23XZHaPh.jpg Here is a cross-sectional diagram showing what needs to be removed. https://i.imgur.com/XcY7xFJ.jpg If you're curious about the process, here is a 2007 article from Hot Rod outlining everything in detail: LINK |
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