Half filled blocks
 

Are there any negative effects of running a half filled block on the street?I understand this is used a lot for race engines to provide strength, but I am thinking half filling takes away coolant space and may not be a good idea for a street car. What's your thoughts?

I had a couple before I went to an IA2....Never a problem....tons of street miles

Block filler discussion.....

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...d+freeze+plugs



.

I ran one on the street,closed my eyes and never monitored the oil temps.I know they are higher but water temps are usually less.Tom

I have a 1965 421 whose block has been filled to freeze plugs for over 20 years of drag racing and street use. Engine water temp is no higher than that of my 428 without filled block.

An oil cooler isn't a bad idea... you lose the cooling at the bottom of the block which aides in cooling the oil... For a street car,, I would suggest one.

I did it and drove the car in all weather conditions for 19 months daily back and forth to work. Block was filled to within 1/2" of the bottom of the water pump holes. I ran a Canton 6 qt. pan with a remote oil cooler and two filters. Total oil capacity was nearly 9 quarts. I did not run an oil cooler, nor did I ever monitor oil temps, but I had no issues with the engine, either running hot or with oil related issues. I had no oil cooler but if I were to do it again, I would run one. I'm sure the extra capacity with the remote filter arrangement helped somewhat however.

Still run a Half-Filled 455+060 on street; runs cool, no mech fan and use the electric fan at extended stops and hot summer highway.

However, unexpected extended traffic jamb stops and waiting to check in at the Race Track has the Temp climbing to unbearible (bucking) so I MUST put a mechanical fan on to remedy the electric fan limitation.

My 462 block is filled to waterpump holes. 15 years in service. Canton road race pan, aluminum rad and electric fan.
Highest oil temp ever seen was 230 in 100+ deg summer heat idling after high speed highway driving and 190 during the highway driving. I bought an oil cooler setup thinking I may need it but it's still on the shelf. The coolant runs at 170 in all conditions.

Does your motor have 3” or 3.250” mains?
Just in a non filled block I have at 3000 rpm seen a difference of 12 to 15 degrees more between a 3” main 3.750” motor and a 3.250” main 4.210” stroke motor.
I would imagine these differences might be even greater in a semi filled block.

Yeah Steve , good point. This is a 455 with 3.25 mains that may see some extended highway driving. Guess I should have included that in my question.

Mine is a 3.25 x 4.21 and uses engine oil for 2 turbos. I thought the turbos would add heat to the oil but not so sure anymore.

If all your ever gonna do is drive it on the street, Depending on what H/P and Torque you have or gonna have, personally I wouldn't even consider it. Most are done for higher h/p builds. The oil will run hotter no question. My .02

I filled my 461 with filler from Pontiacdude way back when I built it, I filled it to the bottom of the center freeze plugs. To be honest, it runs way cooler than the previous non-filled 455 did that was in it, but the 461 is a complete different combination than the 455 was, and I built the 461 with alot tighter quench, so that may have also contributed to the difference as well.

Mine was a .030" over 455 with the #4 cylinder sleeved and the stock 3.25" main 4.21" stroke crank.

I run a half filled 400 on the street with a remote oil thermostat / filter / cooler arrangement. It'll recirc until oil temps get to 180*F which then it'll divert oil through the cooler. Datalogs tell me my oil temps stay around 185*F pretty consistently. No problems with coolant temps either.

The block I am going to run is filled halfway up the front pump holes. And I will bracket race it.
Had no plans on running a oil cooler.
Could we get some more info on oil coolers. Some pics of your setup with remote filter ?
I was not planing on running a remote filter either. Stock adapter by- pass intact with K&P filter with no by-pass.
I have a Moroso tall truck block filter adapter. I could run a K&P filter with a by pass and run that with cooler.

Sure -- just attached them to this post. I run -10 lines and the cooler is 280mm x 280mm.

The thermostat is an Aeroflow unit (Australian company) - https://aeroflowperformance.com/af64...ermostat-10orb

I've got no issues with pressure or perceived flow. Every time I cut open a filter it's fine. And I run a temperature sensor into the ECU that displays on the Racepak dash which I check every now and again if i'm bored.

"To alleviate the creation of excessive moisture, the optimal operating range of engine oil is no less than 212 degrees, which is the point at which the water in the oil will evaporate. Vehicles with an oil temperature thermostat (which we’re going to discuss here shortly) are typically set right at or slightly above this mark. Conversely, you don’t want to run the oil above roughly 240 degrees, as Speed tells us, because you begin to significantly reduce the life and operating ability of the oil, as oil containing moisture doesn’t flow or lubricate properly."


https://www.streetmusclemag.com/tech...-you-need-one/

And with a note regarding the articles comment above 240 degrees. On occasions I've seen my oil temp rise to 240 or higher at highway speeds like 90 mph out on the tollway during summer. With synthetic oil it can be a different ballgame. I called Red Line Oil years ago about oil temps approaching 250 degrees and the tech guy chuckled, then gave a reassuring replay not to worry.

( Information offered for general interest, does not represent any endorsement of the products )


.

My hard block engine has been in service since 2017. Mike Voycey built the shortblock intended more for a drag car then a street car. Initially I was going to add a remote filter cooler and lines but a few here suggested just run it as it is and see. I use a Canton 400 pan which increases oil capacity and also have a oil temp gauge. The majority of the time the oil temps are at 210 when the engine is fully heat soaked, the only time it goes higher are on extended high rpm runs on the highway..it will show 240. I also use synthetic 15/40 Rotella for oil in the engine for the added protection at possible higher temps. If I was to use this engine for road racing or any long high sustained runs more often I would add a cooler/thermostat setup.
The one nice feature I have now is the oil temp gauge..I always make sure my temp is up before I really romp on it...and also at the dragstrip with this engine the oil stays warmer longer then the coolant between rounds which is good for performance.