Another Oil Question
 

I was told I should be using a zinc additive or oil that has zinc already in it. What are you guys using?

I use Valvoline VR1 racing oil. It has plenty of zinc in it.

I use both the Lucas Hot Rod and Classic Car Motor Oil 10683 and the Driven Racing Oil Hot Rod Motor Oil 03806 Both have the needed amount of ZDDP (zinc) and other protective additives in them. Recommended by many here. I also use the WIX filters. Nary a problem.:thumbup:

Search ZDDP in this forum and you’ll get more info than you could ever read

I like to use an oil I can buy locally that the oil company itself readily publishes the ZDDP content. Simplicity and full disclosure is a wonderful thing.

Mobil 1 does that for me. They have multiple oils with the proper ZDDP content. They have a number that you can call:

Call 1-800-662-4525 with product questions.

https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...pm-capture.png

Above graph is easily obtained by googling 'Mobil 1 ZDDP content chart' and it will give you a link to the PDF. It will also show a link to the full Mobil 1 Engine Oil Product Guide PDF.

Mobil specifically recommends their 15W50 and FS 0W40 for flat tappet cam applications. They also specifically state that racing oil is NOT recommended for street applications.


Also, ZDDP is not just zinc, it's also phosphorous.

Full specs for these two oils:

15W50 Phosphorous 1200 PPM Zinc 1300 PPM

0W40 Phosphorous 1000 PPM Zinc 1100 PPM

I've been running these oils in the GTO and the Camaro for decades.

Need to know some info on the cam/engine to suggest an oil or zddp amounts... without knowing some engine details, anyone just throwing out that you need 1400+ zddp or to use 20/50 or race type oils like VR1 or to dump in a bottle of additive without knowing the levels in the oil or additive, is not doing you, your engine or wallet any favors.

A stock or smaller street cam does NOT need VR1 or crazy high levels of zddp, there are advanced additives in todays oils as well as new longer lasting zddp that doesnt require as much as the older tech zddp. If the cam is broken in already & not a huge lift high/spring pressure, a quality brand modern oil will be more than sufficient at protecting the cam & rest of the engine.

If you want more accurate info on oil than you could ever want, check out bobistheoilguy website, members there are far more knowledgeable on oils & all other automotive fluids than most anyone on here.

I was never a fan of adding stuff to oil. Much rather prefer an oil that has an additive package that already does what I'm looking for.

There are quite a few good ones out there. Driven, Amsoil, Penn Grade, Lucas.

I tend to like to use an oil that is locally available as well in case I'm ever in a pinch and need something, but generally I like to mail order as a member and benefit from the large discounts. In the end it's cheaper than most anything on the shelf.

On top of that some of these oils also offer additive packages that are tailored towards the classic car that sits a lot between run periods to fight off corrosion. Could be a benefit for those that don't drive much and live in moist humid climates. How you use your car might influence the decision.

There is so much to these oils it makes your head spin. Lots of good reading if one cares to dive in.

Agree Formulajones

Tom V.

Yeah well ... there's nothing cooler than a retro STP t shirt pal!!!

I'm all for retro T-shirts :thumbup:

Most zinc additives have phosphorus in their package. No need for synthetic oils (that WILL cause leaks in engines that contain paper and cork gaskets) ridiculously thick oil, or wildly spaced goofy oil weights.

https://www.amazon.com/ZDDPPlus-Engi.../dp/B006LBAAD4

All zddp has zinc & phosphorus combined, thats what the zddp stands for with some other long words in it.

Synthetic oils do NOT cause leaks on paper or cork gaskets if they are in good condition & installed right... its old, compromised or failed paper/cork gakets that will allow synthetics to seep/leak a little more than conventional oils since they are usually thinner or "slipperier".

I use full synthetic in a 467 stroker pontiac with traditional felpro paper/cork gaskets & its 99% dry after years of street & drag strip use, just a slight seepage on the rear main after a whole season but no drips or leaks anywhere else on teh motor. have used synthetic blends in another pontiac motor with original rear main & none of the engines gaskets leak, but the rear main will seepdrip a little which its always done on any type of oil.

**cough** :gag:

https://drivenracingoil.com/c-138946...gine-oils.html


Fact or Myth: Synthetic Oil Causes Leaks

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v04QEj84Rv4


.

Man - that Summit video sounds like pure nonsense. JMHO.

BTW - for OP. I like conventional Valvoline VR1. Good amounts of ZDDP/phosphorus and usually prices are good.

Bwahahahahaha..... try these

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8H6SO0Oz0E


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pa4RwsiZUmI

.

Curious why that summit vid sounds like pure nonsense?

Everything he said about synthetic oil is true, from how it acts with old/paper/cork gaskets to how its made & the molecule size/structure vs conventional oil.

At the end his wording is kinda misleading and causes lots of the confusion/ myths you hear about oils today, he says to "make sure your oil has zinc/zddp in it"... ALL oils have zinc/zddp in them... its only been reduced to limit damage to catalytic converters, but its still there in the 900-1000ppm range on most all off the shelf oils, along with other modern anti wear additives to make up for it.

Many members on here have said & other professional builders I know & use say the vast majority of problems with cam/lifter failures are due to the poor metal quality of cams today & quality of the lifters. Next is assembly/user error or break in process. Last & probably way less common than most think is oil related.

It always seems like it’s the older crowd in the hobby that balks at synthetics - what gives ? 0w40 Mobil FS has zddp levels comparable to SD rated oil circa 1970 . Modern zddp formulas don’t brake down as much so not as much is needed . 0w40 Mobil is a thinner 40wt on the scale and sounds perfect for these engines . I’m torn between using it or a penn grade product that’s designed for cars that sit .

I'm 69, first used Mobil 1 (10W30) in my first new car in 1977, my 1976 Pontiac Ventura when stationed at the Pentagon.

When I got out of the service, I returned to MN and sold commercial insurance. One of my customers was the local Mobil jobber. I asked about getting Mobil 1 through him to save money, and he said he could get me a better price on the commercial grade application - Delvac 1 that he sold to the mining companies on the Iron Range in MN. Ended up running that in my daily drivers for years until I relocated and lost that option.

As stated earlier, I have used Mobil 1 in my GTO and the Camaro for decades with good results.

I initially used the 15W50 because that was the first oil that Mobile specified for flat tappet cams. But the FS 0W40 is a better option for my fringe season driving (or the occasional beautiful day in December through February) in Minnesota.

So nearly 50 years of using Mobil 1 or other synthetic oils... Not bad for an old fart....

I've used synthetics for decades in these old cars and don't have leak problems.

People don't realize synthetic oils have been around since the 1920's used in aviation. Amsoil was the first to bring it to the automobile market in the 1960's and in 1972 it was the first to be API certified. Mobile and Pennzoil came along shortly after.

In other words, synthetic oil has been around a looooong time.