oiling issues
 

i drove my '69 'bird for the first time since the 469 was fitted. I drove it home from the engine builders workshop. The engine had been run and had been on a dyno where it proved to have 540 hp and 600ft lb of torque and no issues. It was on the dyno for 4 hours. The engine was then fitted into the car by myself and the engine builder with no issues. we then fitted an oil filter relocation kit and moved the filter to the front core support. The engine has been 'run up' in the car with no obvious issues to have the fluids etc checked.
The journey home proved otherwise, once the engine was warm, then got warmer and eventually very hot (200 plus) the oil pressure went to nearly nothing unless I kept it above 2000 revs. It rose as soon as I revved it. Once home I immediately switched off and looked for the obvious.
The oil filter is absolutely stone cold ?????What would be the first to look at? Thank you in advance.

Gary, have you checked the oil level? I had something similar below 3000 rpm cruising because of not enough oil.
Rick.

Try taking that remote oil filter off and installing the stock oil filter housing and filter in stock location on the block and see how it is for pressure,, and trouble shoot from there. Another issue that may get overlooked is the inlets and outlets on some of these remote filter setups. Just saying.

First off I would never run engine oil lines that long to the very front of the car!

My photo shows the longest that I would want to see oil lines run to get to a filter set up when a dry sump system is not being used.

Number 2, if the inlet and outlet of the remote filter sit higher then the highest point of oil feed in the the motor then the system maybe air bound and needs to be blead with the filter somewhat unscrewed from the mount.

Yes, it's a messy thing to do .

Questions.

Does the remote oil filter set up have a bypass, as that may be stuck closed?

Where the lifters making any noise once the temps started to climb, or before you shut it down?

If you pull the plugs out and go to Crank it now does it sound tight?

Also 200 plus is not all that hot depending on the rating of the T stat used, as can be seen in this chart of common GM/ AC delco. t stat temps,

Another guess......Verify that the hoses are connected to the correct side of the filter. If it's plumbed to flow backwards, the filter anti-drain back valve will prevent flow until you crank it up high enough to defeat the drain back valve.

I had a filter get an airlock once. Put a new filter on and it worked fine. Never happened again snd never understood how it happened

Eric

X2 on Eric's post.
What filter are you using?


:confused:

The pump may have a defective pressure spring which once the oil temp got hotter then what was seen on the short dyno run’s made itself known.

agree with this...

& just curios but why do you want/need a remote oil filter for this car? do headers/manifolds interfere with the stock mount & filter enough that it cant be used? unless the remote filter is absolutely needed i would just use the stock set up & avoid the hassles & potential problems of a remote set up with that long of lines.

The obvious....

Calculating the amount of oil inside the lines to and from the remote filter. My remote lines take about 1/4 quart of oil.

Also knowing the amount of oil inside the filter itself is always a good idea. ​I use a popular WIX filter and found it actually holds about 3/4 quart of oil.
Test yours, keep filling it until it's saturated, tap it a few times, fill it again, do so until will take no more oil.


.

X3 on Eric's post These remote mounts use a Ford style filter which has an anti drain back valve, which acts a check valve for reversed inlet/outlet hoses. This explain the cold filter.
A stuck check valve will allow oil thru the filter, no matter which way it's stuck.
A fly wall mounted filter will require a minimum of a -10 oil line. A core mounted filter will require a -12 oil line.
Oil temp should be between 212 deg and 260 deg. wit a max of 275 deg.

"A core mounted filter will require a -12 oil line."

Based on the inside diameter it would be interesting to know the amount of oil in the lines to and from the core support. One quart ?

.

I can not think of a reason to run a remote filter on a 500HP street engine. No reason for it. The juice is not worth the squeeze as they say.
Too many things can go wrong.
This filter
https://kandpengineering.com/product/S16/ goes on your stock filter adapter. You can buy them with a built in by pass or without. If you plug your by pass in your stock filter adapter and run the K & P with by pass you are covered. The filter/flow rate is so high its almost impossible to activate the by pass in the filter anyway.
Its cleanable and the micron coverage is better than throw away filters.

That said, I have run a stock filter adapter with by pass still in and run a long WIX 1049 with 2" headers and the engine has lasted forever.

To answer the question in post 11 I just did a physical check.

A number 12 line has pretty much a 3/4” ID to it, almost the same as the 3/4” pick up tube on a 60 or 80 psi pump.

I filled up a 3/4” ID 1 ft long tube from a measuring cup and it held 5 And 2/3 rd OZ.

OK... 5 And 2/3 rd OZ. for one foot distance.


Unknown here is the tubing length from the engine outlet to the remount filter on the core support and back.

6 feet to 8 feet total ??

32 ounces equals one quart.

It's a bunch of oil :)

.

Well 8 ft of -12 line sounds like only about a 1.5 qts!

Not that it hasn't been factored in for the situation at hand in the thread... but that 1-1/2 quarts in the lines and the 3/4 quart in the filter needs to be included in the total oil system capacity.

And how much oil is up inside a running engine. Then factor in oil drain back issues from the cylinder heads to the oil pan. I'm getting carried away here... but there is more to it than knowing my oil pan holds X quarts of oil !

.

Ok thanks all for the replys.. Firstly, the reason for putting the remote filter on is because the original filter was so close to the headers that the engine builder said it would get too hot. I ran my 400 before like it for years with no issues!!!!
The remote filter kit is Summit racing part number 15748S/G4985-1 and the filter is a K & N HP3001.
Thanks again for your input.

lots of engines have headers that are "close" to the filter & it doesnt cause any serious issues. i have ran headers on all my cars currently & in the past. my stroker engine has big 2" primary round port hooker super comps & the filter is about 1.5" away from one tube at its closest & the oil has never shown signs of being burnt or too hot. there are options to help that, like a smaller diameter filter or some use heat wrap or bag around the filter. i tried some heat tape the first few years to be safe but after seeing so many other engines with the same arrangement i havent done that for the last few times.

just a suggestion but i dont think you need a remote filter or at least not mounted all the way up at the core support. maybe post a pic of your headers near the filter area & see what others think?

???

Headers: Solving An Oil Filter Clearance Problem

https://pontiacstreetperformance.com...iladapter.html


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Cold Filter
 

The Summit/Derale kit uses your factory filter adapter. So your engine was getting oil through the factory filter by-pass. That's as long as someone didn't plug the factory by-pass.

Specs for the K&N filter are WRONG. The inlet is the small outer ring of holes. Outlet is the threaded hole in the center. The filter does have anti drain back. You can not shove oil through it backwards. That's why your filter was cold.

Need to hear if the factory filter by-pass got left functional or plugged???

Clay