'66 big car disc brake conversion
Who here has converted from drums to power front discs on a '66? Did you use later year GM parts, or is there a conversion on the market that I can't seem to find? The car is a Bonneville.
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One of the members in this forum, Scarebird, probably has a bracket set up and a parts list to convert your car to front discs. There is also Master Power Brakes (MPP) who I used several years ago to put front disc brakes on my '64 Grand Prix.
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It's possible to use the disk brakes from a 1968-1970 full size Pontiac, but those parts weren't very common even when new and are hard to find these days. The Scarebird kit will work with the original 14" wheels, the Master Power kit requires 15" wheels.
https://scarebird.com/index.php?rout...product_id=251 https://www.mpbrakes.com/front-brake...1966-front.asp |
66 disc brake conversion
Steve
I found a few sets of 69-70 full size disc brake setups years ago in local salvage yards, using one now on my 66 Catalina. The steering knuckles are a bolt in system, and I used the brake calipers as cores for rebuilt ones. An hour glass beading the knuckles and brackets and sprayed with a rattle can, they look new. The rotors on both sets were usable, well above minimum thickness for machining, but I doubt they could be turned again. I figure that with the 2-3,000 miles I drive it every year, they should last me a lifetime. I used the original 1970 power booster, but bought a new master cylinder and flex hoses. I had to switch over to 15" wheels for clearance on the brake calipers. I've heard good things about the Scarebird conversion, but these were local and inexpensive. Ron |
Scarebird is the best bang for the buck.
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Here is a pic of the Scarebird conversion I performed on my ‘66 2+2.
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Thanks for the pictures. Is that an aftermarket upper control arm you have there? Sorry if this has already been discussed.
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But the bleeder on the rear caliper picture is facing down. Aren't they supposed to be at the top of the caliper?
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Yes, the upper control arms are from RAM Air Restoration I believe. They are suspension corrected and have a taller than stock ball joint on top. The lower arms are stock with polyurethane bushings, 1 1/8” aftermarket sway bar with poly bushings, and Lares fast-ratio manual steering gear. KYB shocks all around. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Yes, this was an early pic as I was dry-fitting everything. I switched the calipers during final assembly so the bleeders are up. Regarding Scarebird rear disks, I will say that I have heard a couple people mention the rotors not being centered in the rear caliper and having to shave one of the pads to prevent rubbing. I ran into this as well, but only on one side. I believe the issue is that where the rotor lands inside the caliper has a lot to do with where the axle bearing ends up when it is pressed onto the axle. I believe the people that have had issues have axle bearing(s) that aren’t pressed onto the axle quite as far as others. This leads to an axle flange that sits out slightly farther and hence the disk brake rotor and wheel sit farther out as well. In my case I could not mount the caliper with pads into place due to the outer pad being against the outer rotor surface. Next time I have the car in the air I’m going to pull the rear axles and test out my hypothesis. I also have noticed that different brands of pads seem to have different thicknesses of friction surface. The first set I received which was a high-quality off brand, was fine on one side and tight on the other. The second set of ACDelco were much thicker and wouldn’t work on either side. Fun times. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Ben - thanks for the feedback - we did NOT know this concerning the axle bearing.
We are however aware of the pad thickness issue - some calipers loaded won't fit on the rotor period, which make you wonder how they sell them. :mad: If you have more pix we would like to see/use them. Did the Wilwood's clear the stock 14" wheels? |
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Yes, I couldn’t believe how much thicker the AC Delco pads were that I received. I still have the pads so I’ll try to dig them out and take a comparison pic. Definitely not consistent. I did not try the OE 14” steel wheels with the GTO-replacement Wilwood front calipers since I already had 17” on the car. I sold the original steel wheels so I don’t have a spare to try them now either unfortunately. I do have many detailed pics from the front / rear conversion and all of the part numbers I used for the braided stainless brake lines if you want additional info for your customers. Everything went together pretty well, but I would definitely make my own brake lines next time rather than buying the kit from Inline Tube for this conversion. I had to modify a few so I could have done it cheaper myself in the end. As far as getting the front dual piston Wilwood calipers to fit is concerned, they bolted right up, but there is a small clearance issue due to the wider dual caliper body. I didn’t realize this until I tried to mount the calipers over the rotors and couldn’t get the calipers to move outward far enough. I had to clearance your mounting bracket slightly to allow the caliper body to slide freely in the bracket. See pics below. I can send you more detailed pics directly if you like and will have the car on jack stands shortly since they just salted the roads here in Illinois. I put on a couple thousand miles this summer and they brakes feel really good and are well-balanced after bedding in the pads according to the instructions provided with the Wilwood calipers. I performed an OE manual to power brakes conversion to this car at the same time I did the disk conversion so that was an interesting research exercise as well. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...917ebc88a8.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3c446999d6.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...397031b2ab.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1312667717.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4acfffb9bf.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c2159fb289.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4bd50fc726.jpg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Ben - excellent work; we will mod the next batch to clear this - even though Wilwood is a competitor having the ability to use their "upgrade" calipers would not hurt.
I am concerned about the size of the booster; if that is a dual 7" it may not work so hot with a low vacuum motor. |
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One other modification I had to make that I didn’t take a picture of is to the inside of the Wilwood Calipers. When mounted, the outside edges of the brake rotor would slightly contact the inside of the caliper when rotating it. There was plenty of meat inside the caliper so I used a small file to create about 1/16 inch of clearance for the rotor edges. The power brake / disk master cylinder conversion kit I used has the following specs from the MP site: 1966 Pontiac Catalina Power Brake Conversion Kit - 9" Dual Diaphragm Booster w/OE Manual Brakes 9 inch Dual Diaphragm Brake Booster 1 inch or 1-1/8 inch Bore Master Cylinder Powdercoated Black Booster with Black Master Cylinder For Use on Cars with Originally Equipped with Manual Brakes The kit worked ok, but I one thing I didn’t immediately realize is that when buying the kit for a ‘66 Catalina with OE manual brakes, the back of the booster has a large bracket on it to change the manual pedal ratio to a less aggressive power ratio. Since a factory booster in my car looks a lot cleaner when mounted directly to the firewall, I removed the bracket and remounted the crevice to the booster. I then had to source a power brake pedal for a manual shift car which is pretty impossible for a full size, so I made my own by welding a manual lower section (small foot pedal since there are three) with the longer upper section from a power brake pedal assembly from an automatic transmission car I bought of eBay for $20.ot was a bunch of extra work, but it looks a lot nicer imo. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Very nice work Ben! Not sure I saw it, but what hub and rotor did you use on the front? Any part numbers for your setup would be great to have as I plan to do similar to my 66.
Rotors, calipers and so on. Thanks! |
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I have a write up I put together for another group with part numbers for everything I can send you / post here. I’m away from home for a few days so i’ll have to check my PC when I get home. I believe the front rotors are originally made to fit a 2006 era Dodge Sprinter 3500 van with OE 16” wheels. The info I’ll provide says specifically. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Just wanted to follow up on something SB mentioned above, about the extent to which a booster will work in a low vac environment. I've been looking at the unit Ben used (from MP) and their website notes that 18" is needed. 18" seems like a lot. Does anyone have any experience with this booster in use? Thanks!
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The reason I'm asking is because the single MC in my Bonneville (on a bendix booster) is leaking. Plus, my power brakes are not working that well with my cam. Anyway, I'm at a bit of a crossroads and am wondering if the MP unit might solve both of my problems.
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I’ve been driving all summer with it, so yes. The brakes seem fine. I checked my vacuum before I bought it and I’m just under 18 at idle on my ‘66 421. I will probably have to use a vacuum pump once i change cams I assume. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Thanks, Ben. My vac is around 11 in gear at idle. Stopping from speed is not terrible bc there's more vac when I'm just off the gas. I can really feel it backing out of a steep driveway though, for example. Using both feet helps...
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did you happen to find that write up? Thanks again!
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I did locate it yesterday and spent some time adding some notes and additional parts I used to to. I also started putting together a list of the suspension pieces I used like bushings, sways bars, rear links, and front tubular a-arms and where I got them from. I’ll try and send those out to you today. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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I did locate it yesterday and spent some time adding some notes and additional parts I used to to. I also started putting together a list of the suspension pieces I used like bushings, sways bars, rear links, and front tubular a-arms and where I got them from. I’ll try and send those out to you today. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Target Car: 1966 Pontiac Catalina / 2+2 with OE manual standard 4-wheel drum. Currently running 17" x 7" Cragar Eliminator 500 aluminum wheels. Converting to 4-wheel power disk brakes. Here is my parts list to this point.
Brake Booster: P/N BM17005-5 (Extra-long studs to fit full size Catalina properly) Details: 1966 Pontiac Catalina Power Brake Conversion Kit - 9" Dual Diaphragm Booster w/OE Manual Brakes The conversion kit includes the following: 9 inch Dual Diaphragm Brake Booster 1-1/8 inch Bore Quad Port Master Cylinder Firewall Mounting Brackets and Hardware ( I ended up not using this for reasons I can go into in another post) Push rod with Pedal Attachment 3 feet of 11/32 inch Vacuum Hose Intake Manifold Fitting Price: $399 / kit Link: https://www.mpbrakes.com/booster-mas...42408BB08300D3 Disc / Disc or Drum / Drum Combination Valve: P/N VL3359K (not for front disk / rear drum; for disk / disk only) Details: The kit includes the following items: Combination Valve for Disc/Disc Applications, Mounting Bracket with Black Electroplate Finish Pressure Differential Switch Pigtail Bleeding Tool Valve to Bracket Mounting Hardware Assorted Fittings for Installation Price: $119 / kit Link: https://www.mpbrakes.com/pc_product_...C08E2DAD45E44B Front & Rear Stainless Steel 4-wheel Drum to Disk Conversion Brake Lines from Inline Tube Notes: I would probably buy bulk stainless brake line and fittings and make these myself next time. I had to modify the rear axle line and custom make the brake master cylinder lines. Details: These lines are all inverted double flare and match up to the new stainless flex hoses listed below just fine. No adaptors were required. SMFG70628A 1966 Catalina/Bonneville/Grand Prix Dual Master Conversion Lines For Power Brakes 1 SMFG70628B 1966 Catalina/Bonneville/Grand Prix Dual Master Conversion Lines For Power Brakes 1 SMFG73995 1966 Pontiac Catalina/Grand Prix 1/4" Front to Rear Brake Lines, Stainless 1 SMFG73999A 1966 Pontiac Bonneville/Catalina/Grand Prix 3/16" Left Front Brake Line, Stainless 1 SMFG73999B 1966 Pontiac Bonneville/Catalina/Grand Prix 3/16" Right Front Brake Line, Stainless 1 SMFG74003A 1965-66 Pontiac Bonneville/Catalina/GP 3/16" Rear Axle Line (1 of 2), Stainless 1 SMFG74003B 1965-66 Pontiac Bonneville/Catalina/GP 3/16" Rear Axle Line (2 of 2), Stainless 1 Price: $199.00 (Also available in OE steel for $179.00) Link: https://www.inlinetube.com - Must call in to order; not listed on website. Distribution Block, Brake Fluid, 1966 Bonn/Cat/GP, Dual M/C or Power Disc Brakes Note: I used this because it let me use the Inline Tube disk conversion lines which terminate at the OE brake distribution block mounted to the front driver's side frame rail, but seperate the front and rear brakes into two seperate circuits. If I had custom-made lines I probably would not have used this. Note: Using this makes the brakes lines look and run more like the factory OE manual brake lines. The two lines enter the top of the distribution block from the master cylinder, a single large line runs to the back, and two smaller lines lead to the left and right front calipers. Price: $32.99 / each Link: https://www.opgi.com/brake-systems/p...s-gbc9833.html Front Disk Conversion Parts Front Disk Brake Conversion Kit for 1965-66 Full size Pontiac 14" or bigger wheels: Product Code: ZNL R30 6566 Kit Price: $389.00 / kit Link: https://scarebird.com/index.php?rout...product_id=251 Front Braided Stainless Brake Flex Hoses Details: Universal Braided SS Brake Hose, 16" Long with 7/16" Banjo (Includes hardware) Made in USA. 3/8-24 female inlet for inverted flare with 7/16" Banjo Includes: 2 hoses, 2 banjo bolts(7/16-20), 4 copper washers, 2 clips Price: $37.00/ pair Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Front Disk Brake Rotors Note: Unlike the rear rotors I purchased, these were not zinc PLATED, but were painted with zinc paint. I was disappointed when the coating came off with brake cleaner. I plan to pull them back off and repaint them to prevent surface rust. Details: ATL Autosports Performance Brake Rotors. Fits 2006 Dodge Sprinter 3500 [W/285mm Front & Rear Discs ] ATL53028-35DS. Drilled, slotted, zinc-plated (NOT) Price: $122.38 / pair Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Front Disk Brake Calipers (use calipers to fit 1972 GTO per Scarebird documentation; these Wilwoods are designed to fit stock GTOs) Note: These bolted up to the b-body adaptors from Scarebird just fine, but I ran into two small clearance issues. The calipers are dual piston and the puston bodies are slightly wider than the single-piston calipers the Scarebird brackets are designed for. I had to file the inside hole of the Scarebird brackets so the caliper could move in and out freely. Note: The second area of interference was inside the caliper. The Dodge Sprinter rotors rubbed on the inside of the calipers slightly when rotating the rotors with the calipers bolted onto the Scarebird brackets. I used a hand file to file a slight depression in side each brake caliper to prevent the edges of the rotor from contacting the inside of the calipers during rotation. Note: Be sure to follow the Wilwood instruction for bedding the beds to the rotors before you judge brake performance. My brakes felt much better after bedding the pads. Details: Wilwood Dual-SS Piston Forged Aluminum Brake Calipers, 1964-72 A-Body, D-52, black powder coat (also available in red) Price: $384.99 / kit (includes mounting bolts, BP-10 brake pads) Link: https://www.opgi.com/brake-systems/d...d-ch29044.html Front Disk Brake Pads Details: Wilwood BP-10 high-friction pads for D-52 dual-piston calipers above Price: $66.36 (this is approximate replacement cost; these are INCLUDED with Wilwood D-52 brake caliper kit) Link: https://www.wilwood.com/brakepads/br...emno=150-8939k Rear Disk Conversion Parts Rear Disk Brake Conversion Kit for 1949-70 Pontiac, Oldsmobile: Product Code OPR Details: Includes brackets, hardware, brake shoes, etc. Price: $295.99 / kit Link: https://scarebird.com/index.php?rout...&product_id=80 Rear Braided Stainless Brake Flex Hoses (hard lines on rear axle to metric Chevy Citation rear disk calipers with 10mm Banjo) Universal Braided SS Brake Hose, 15" Long with 3/8-24 female inlet for inverted flare to 10mm Banjo (Includes washers, banjo bolts, hardware) Made in USA by The Stop Shop Price: $37.00 / pair Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Rear Braided Stainless Brake Flex Hose (central hardline from rear frame to center of rear axle with distribution block for axle hard lines) Universal Rear Braided SS Brake Hose, 14" Long with mounting block. 7/16-24 female inlet for inverted flare. Attached mounting block with 2 - 3/8-24 ports for rear axle brake lines Price: $18.75 / each Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Rear Disk Brake Rotors Details: Performance Drilled Slotted & Coated Disc Brake Rotor Pair for GM (1994-1996 Impala / Caprice Rears) by AM Autoparts. 5 Lug, Diameter: 11.61 in. (295mm), drilled, slotted, zinc-plated, integrated drum parking brake Note: These were zinc plated and seem to be nice rotors Price: $59.79 / pair Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Rear Disk Brake Calipers (1980-1985 Chevy Citation / Citation II Brake Calipers FRONT) Details: NAPA Total Eclipse Remanufactured Front Right / Left 2" single-piston OE cast-iron Brake Caliper with Hardware - Semi-Loaded - Black-Coating - metric M10 banjo REMAN/BRAKE CALIPER: Part #: CAL SE4682 Qty: 1 $31.24 /each + $11.11 core /each REMAN/BRAKE CALIPER: Part #: CAL SE4681 Qty: 1 $31.24 /each + $11.11 core /each Price: $84.70 / pair Link: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SEBSE4682 / https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SEBSE4681 Rear Disk Brake Pads (1980-1985 Chevy Citation / Citation II 2.8L 173cid V6 FRONT) Note: There seems to be a large variation of pad thicknesses. If you have issues with the rear calpers with pads fitting correctly, you may need to sand the pads down a bit. I believe this may be related to the location of the rear axle flange relative to the rearend housing flange. I believe certain people run into rubbing problems because their rear axle bearings are pressed on either too far in or out on the axle which changes where the rear disk ends up inside the rear calipers. I had to sand my outside flange a little bit to prevent rubbing, but only on the drivers side. Note: I ordered a set of AC Delco pads and they were MUCH thicker than the CENTRIC pads I ended up using. Details: CENTRIC 50002890 (Premium) PQ PRO Front Price: $22.79 / set Link: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...66&jsn=1&jsn=1 Rear Axle Studs Note: I replaced all of my rear axle studs to account for additional disk brake thickness (probably less then 1/8' thicker) and the aluminum wheels (and their thicker hubs) I'm using. I removed and installed them with a ball joint press. Details: Dorman 610-080 Wheel Stud 3.6 x 2.4 x 2.2 inches Price: $17.08 / set of 10 Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Brake & Wheel Hub : Brake Backing Plate Gasket (1965-1970 Catalina / Full-Size) Note: Seals between axle flange and Scarebird disk brake adaptor plates. Details: FEL-PRO 13831 {#760023, 9778249} Backing Plate Gasket; (4-bolt holes); 2-5/8 inch I.D. Price: $1.59 each (need 4?) Link: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...119756&jsn=260 Parking Brake: Stainless steel replacement rear parking brake cable for 1965-1966 Catalina/Grand Prix Park Brake Cable, Rear, 1965-66 Catalina/Grand Prix Price: $62.09 (need 2) Link: https://www.opgi.com/brake-systems/e...x-gc03882.html Rear Disk Brake Install Notes You can access the bolts and remove rear drum brakes with backing plate as an assembly, but I had to disassemble one of the shoes to remove the parking brake cable and remove two bolts on the backside of the drum backing plate that held the parking brake cable to the backing plate. Disconnect brake line from wheel cylinder or cut original brake line near fitting. (Keep line for comparison to new lines) Slide out axles being careful not to damage the axle seals. (I replaced both of mine) Press out old axle studs and press in new longer studs (I used a large ball joint press) Pry open metal tabs that hold original brake lines to rear axle and bend old brake line out of the way. Trial fit new Inline Tube stainless steel conversion line. There is enough length in them to bend the end that would normally be routed to the rear wheel cylinders into a broad twisted S shape that will reach the new metric caliper hose bracket. If you go with custom lines, you should add a couple inches of length to the factory line length which would allow you to use both of the original tabs on the axle. I believe in-line Tube will make custom lines for you as well. <INSERT PICTURE> Clean the original special axle flange bolts and nuts and scrape any gasket material off of the rear axle flange. Install the special bolts in the axle flange and install a new axle flange seal. Install new Scarebird disk brake bracket with caliper mount at rear of car. The brackets are marked so you know which side each is to be installed on. Install new axle flange seal over bolts on the outside of the Scarebird bracket. Slide the axle into the rearend housing and into the differential Note: may want to measure the position of the rear axle bearing relative to the axle flange in case you have issues with the rear rotors rubbing on the brake pads. Slide axle retaining ring up against Scarebird bracket (with new seal) and install original nuts. Torque to ? Install brake rotor. If brake rotor holes will not slide easily over lugs, use round hand file to slightly enlarge holes in each rotor. Install caliper with bleeder pointing up and torque mounting bolts to spec Install brake hoses from bracket to hardlines on axle For the parking brake mods, I purchased new stainless L & R rear parking brake cables and proceeded to carefully cut off the flanges that would normally bolt to the OE drum brake backing plate. I then cut off the crimped on brass ends of two old rear drum brake hoses, cut a slit in them so they could be slid over the new parking brake cables, drilled them out to fit over the outer parking brake cable sheath , and used them as a flange to terminate the new cables at and attach them to the new Scarebird backup plates using OE clips. No other mods were required to the parking brake cables and they have been working great. Front Disk Brake Install Notes I removed everything from the front suspension and painted it. I also replaced all bushings with polyurenthane, both upper and lower balljoints, and all springs during the disk conversion. Mount the new aluminum Scarebird hub with new bearings as specified in Scarebird instructions. Install Scarebird brackets per instructions and torque bolts to spec If you're using the GTO dual-piston calipers as mention in the parts list, file the Scarebird bracket to fit the wider dual-piston caliper body to ensure it moves in and out freely when mounted. Trial fit new brake rotors and slightly enlarge brake rotor wheel stud holes if required Power Brake Conversion Notes Haven't gathered my thoughts on this yet. I ended up mounting the aftermarket booster directly to the firewall without the MasterPower brakes-supplied adaptor for a more factory look and then modified two factory brake pedals to create one long OE-style manual (narrow) brake pedal. I can supply more information on the why's and how's of this in a different post. |
That's awesome! Thanks for the list and taking the time to go through that, much appreciated!
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Strange, the forum must remove links from posts. I see all of my links are gone when reading my parts post. If anyone want a copy of the document with links, I can send them one. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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That is some amazing information Ben, thank you for taking the time to post it all! I just a few minutes ago told a newbie that this place has great folks & great information...This thread & you are examples of both!
I am just about to buy the MP. Brakes kit for my 66 Cat Conv. I am not to concerned about the vacuum issue as I already know I will need the pump! LOL I am getting the complete front disk kit with a chrome booster & painted master. God Bless Bill https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...closed.614419/ |
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If you're converting to power brakes and currently have a manual brake pedal set, it would look more "factory" and give you more room in the engine compartment if you ordered a MasterPower kit for an OE power brake car and then changed your pedal assembly to a factory power brake assembly. This would eliminate the pedal ratio adaptor bracket that would sit between the MasterPower booster and the firewall to account for your shorter OE manual brake pedal. If you're aware of this already, great. If not, let me know and I can provide pictures to show what I'm referring to. - Ben H. |
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Yes Ben, Mine was originally a power drum brake car & after reading your earlier post about how you removed the bracket & then had to figure out the pedal & rod, I am glad mine was power because it does really look better mounted right to the firewall! Trevor from MP Brakes actually asked me that directly (about how the booster was mounted) I ordered my kit Monday with a chrome booster, painted master & the disc conversion kit, but did not upgrade to the cross drilled & slotted rotors.. Again thanks for the detailed thread! Below is mine, it is further along, but this was the last picture. Tough building 3 cars at the same time when I don't have time for one, but I am heavily addicted! :D God Bless Bill https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...closed.614419/ |
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Looks good! I’m sure it will be awesome when you’re done and a convertible to boot! You are definitely more ambitious than I, although I DID hand scrape and paint my entire undercarriage and suspension last spring during COVID. ;-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
I went with Scarebird for the front disc brake setup on my 66 GTO and I'm very happy with it. No changing out the drum spindles with his kit. The dual master cylinder was thru Pirate Jack. No power brakes but you wouldn't know it. It's so much better now than with drum brakes up front.
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Just received my Wilwood front caliper kit. Got it through Walmart for only $317.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Wilwood-D...Rotor/51564450 Already have my Scarebird brackets installed on my ‘63 Safari so need to check the clearance but that’s OK. Gary, which M/C did you get? I was looking at the aluminum #MC1312A. I am also running manual brakes. |
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I got a couple of deliveries over the last couple of days...Kind of like Christmas except for the paying part!
My Master Power Brake front disc brake kit with Chrome booster for the 66 Cat Conv & my rebuilt & re-plated booster & cap for the 64 Grand Prix. I was all set to use "Booster Dewey" on a recommendation from another member when I happened to come across Mike @ Brake Boosters in Cal., spoke to him on the phone & liked him immediately. He did a very nice job. God Bless Bill https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...closed.614419/ |
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Awesome! Looks like you’re in for some fun & can’t wait to see some pics. I’ve been busy chipping away at rebuilding my doors over the last two months & will also be making some additional mods to my brakes as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
I have the Scarebird FRONT and REAR disc brake kits on my 66 Catalina Ventura I am having an issue with the rear disc brake ebrake pad. I am using the recommended AC Delco rotor and the epad that Scarebird supplied. The ID of the rotor is 7.5". The epad is the basically the same size (10/100 less than rotor - leaves only 5/100 around rotor- seems like too small of tolerence-??). After test driving - noticed epad was totally dragging. Removed and inspected epad (on both sides) and the pad was chattered from one end to the other. Could barely turn the rotor by hand with the ebrake pad installed. I removed the epad and test drove and no problems with balance of setup. I contacted Scarebird and provided them with information they requested and they say all is fine and should be working without issue. No other remedy was offered. Has anyone else had an issue with the ebrake setup and have any possible solutions?
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'66 big car disc brake conversion
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I have the Scarebird systems front and back on my ‘66 Catalina as well. I used the provided parking brake pads and cross drilled and slotted rotors I purchased off of Amazon. I did not have any problem with clearance or drag when adjusted according to the Scarebird instructions and they work great. It almost sounds like the material on the circular shoes you received are thicker or the internal drum in the disk is machined to a smaller diameter. Strange. I have seen quite a variance in rear disk brake pad thickness. The first set I purchased from RockAuto fit ok (I did sand the inside pad slightly), but the friction material on the replacement set I picked up from NAPA and tried to mount was was way thicker and I couldn’t even mount the caliper over the rear disks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
yes
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I had the same issue with Napa Pads
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I was going to go buy another brand epad and see if it's like the regular pad issue too? Do you recall what brand of Rotors used?
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'66 big car disc brake conversion
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These are the exact rear rotors I have on my car now. Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0792B4RZQ...p_mob_ap_share https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5a8a6eb771.jpg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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I've experienced the problem just getting replacement parking brake pieces for our Suburban. Autopart's store brand (hey, not going on the Pontiac) and too large. Went back and next box they pulled down was correct fit. Same part number but thickness of lining on first set was much thicker.
Also, the Master Power Brake 13" front units are scheduled for delivery on Monday along with the dual 9" booster and new master cylinder. Doing all sorts of things at once so will be awhile before the Safari is on the road - but getting closer with every small step completed. |
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