The BOP composite gear is a good piece. Running one of those in dad's engine with a roller.

They come in both .500 and .491 size. I'd just grab one of those and be done with it. Like Steve said they are designed to run on billet cores so I see no reason why you couldn't use it on a cast core.

Melonizing is a treating process. The formation, microstructure and properties of the compound layer are determined by the base material. I presume it's similar to the Howards Everwear process.

That said, Like Larry has found many of us have used the BOP gear with no issues. I've got a local friend who drives his car every weekend, barring bad weather. He lightly dresses the cam gear first before he uses the BOP gear, like Cliff Ruggles used to post. I do the same.

"From what we've seen here the polymer gears are fine for long term use IF take steps to make sure the drive gear is smooth and lacking tooling marks and sharp edges.
It also appears that a high quality bronze gear will also make the grade using the same drive gear preparation methods."
Cliff Ruggles

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I have over 20K on a .491" BOP composite gear attached to an un-dressed hyd roller camshaft (billet steel gear).

Only reason I recently changed is that I went to a Pro Billet dizzy and needed the .5" gear.

Only very minor wear on the composite gear. I wouldn't ne afraid of running it on a HFT cam.

I have had a BOP gear on my bracket car since 2007-2008. Did not dress the used cam in the engine.
Going to use it on the new engine.

Yeah things got kinda lost in the shuffle. I was talking about this style of sending unit another member posted. It uses double ended male fittings that thread into the unit, and they leaked no matter what you do.

\/ \/ \/

It wasn't the brand I was so much worried about but the extra failure points created by using adapter fittings necessary to use the stock LS filter/regulator.

Well, the best laid plans ... the transmission shop my buddy runs (where we were going to do the install) is belly up. The owner has liver failure and only has a couple weeks to live according to the doctors. Poor guy put up a good fight and has an offer on the property so he's trying to hold on long enough to sell it. It's a **** show with relatives coming out of the woodwork to try and claim a piece of the action and his wife raiding the cash and company credit cards for her personal use.

My buddy hasn't been paid in 4 weeks and has cut ties and is grabbing their commercial and car dealership accounts and starting up his own shop and just leased a new shop space. I don't want to be a distraction to him right now, so I'm just going to drive it the way it is until I put it in winter storage and regroup in the spring.

To be continued as they say.

So sorry man. It’s always something.

I'll tell you this, I've had my Corvette regulator on my car for about 5 years now, and thousands and thousands of miles, and not one hiccup.

Thanks. It's just a delay.

I know the owner of the shop and he is the only honest guy in transmission business. The kid (the owner's nephew) came on bard about 5 years ago and saved the place from going under. He has been running the business for over a year for the owner, doing the trans building and running the front office while the owner has been laid up.

I'll post some of this over in the Lobby. It's an interesting story how things fall apart and people show their true colors.

Fwiw I used one of those stealth in tank setups from Aeromotive I believe in the stock tank.
Works like a charm under all conditions full, empty, acceleration, deceleration.
I don’t race however and have never run her below a quarter tank bc I don’t trust the fuel gauge. Never a leak in over 5 years.
Just passing along.