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neither can I, will need to repair that...
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SWEET
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Nice!
You certainly aren't wasting any time. I thought it would take you longer to get this in the car. I did some reading about the TKX. Sounds like they drastically improved it over the older TKO units. |
Thanks. It was just a test shot so to speak - Apollo 8 kinda thing to check for issues, which a few were found.
Work is nuts right now - this project is therapy. There are a few things with the LT motor swaps that are not addressed properly to me, ie the power steering (and engine mounts believe it or not) that I feel I can contribute to. Also, every 5.3 I have seen has been an automatic, maybe the TKX will solve this shortfall. |
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Finished up work a bit early today so decided to go for it on the mounts.
I had some blanks laser cut a few weeks ago - I measured them so they would nest onto a Pontiac/Olds clamshell lower mount. These also fit towards the center of the block, unlike the Chevy style which are forward. If you pull the trans the motor will balance on the mounts - Chevy's will not. As you see there are several punched holes for the different types of mounts. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1647824050 I bolted up the plate to the block with a pair of bolts, not all 4. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1647824111 The ears were retained with a motor mount bolt, which will need to be longer to work. I put a thin washer in between the rear plate and lower mount to give about 0.075" slop on the ears during fitment. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1647824151 |
Next comes the fun part.
I raised car as high as I could and still be able to lower the motor. I slowly lowered it till it sat roughly cradled in the V's formed by the ears. Fore/aft alignment was checked, as was side to side levelness and place a large framing square on the flywheel and gunsighted the differential so it was aligned longitudinally. After 20 minutes of fiddling I pronounce it ready and tack welded it. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1647824764 As you see by the above pic, the ears rest on the clamshell's inner metal ears, as God and GM intended... https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1647824796 Once that was done, the bolts, nuts and washers were pulled and the car lowered and the motor raised to clear the front with this being the result. I will weld it final, then bevel the inner ears and maybe open up the interface bolt holes for easier installation. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1647824899 |
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Since I cannot use the existing Z-bar I will need to mount a hydraulic master to operate the Howe hydraulic throw out bearing.
This is a pain in the ass with a vacuum booster so I will fit the car with a manual master. I did some research before and it boils down to this. The Mopar minivan master will work but requires the ears to have the holes moved outboard quite a bit. Best match is a 1" bore, while the Mopar unit has a 24mm (0.94") bore. We refitted a friend of mine's 68 FB with a 1969 type front disc and retained the stock drum manual master (1" bore). It worked very well. I looked at several masters - selecting the 1974-80 1/2 ton truck manual master. These come with a deep pocket for the push rod. https://www.rockauto.com/info/142/13...ngle__ra_p.jpg Unfortunately the later aluminum/plastic units do not; the rod is held with a rubber boot that does not seem to be available anywhere. Note how the manual master has the recess (1) for the boot - the power unit does not (2). https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1648429537 |
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I went to test fit the larger aluminum master and noted this: the studs are too short :confused:
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1648433510 Then I realized I needed to trim them years ago to make the power booster mount easier to attach. Dammit. So the panel brace will have to come out and the studs reworked. One just popped out, the second really put up a fight. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1648433521 Eventually the second one came out and new stainless bolts were welded into place. Not as nice as I would have liked but will work quite well. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1648433528 |
I converted my car to manual brakes many years ago. I went to 12" discs in front also. Love it! I used a Strange Engineering master. Similar to the one linked below. Not sure what bore diameter. I have it in my notes.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...iABEgI3xvD_BwE |
ah, the Mopar master - usually 24mm bore.
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I am a huge fan of the Ls engine, but I'm not a fan of cross breeding.. to each his own and happy for you on your build.
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This is exciting stuff! There's not enough information on the Gen V swaps.
I'm doing a very similar swap in a '66 LeMans convertible. I've got a 2019 L87 engine on the stand that will be going into the car. The L87 is the 6.2L engine. Scarebird, are you going to run power steering? If so, I'll be watching how you address the power steering pump. There has to be a way to get a power steering pump on these engines without going to a $3k+ complete accessory drive. |
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I understand your sentiments, too. |
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Cool swap, I put an lm7 in my 62 cat after I found out the 62 block was freeze cracked. I used an 8” dual booster for extra clearance for the clutch master. Got it fired up in November. Have fun and hope all goes well.
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With the LT engine, make sure you use a Catch Can and change the oil a lot. Direct Inject engines use oil and it ends up on the backs of the valves and there is no way to remove it other than pulling the intake off and scrapping it off.
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I think you are confusing the DOD/AFM feature with DI.
DI uses a cam driven booster pump. DOD uses oil pressure to activate lifters. That was deleted here and plugged off. 2019+ engines have this issue. My 2016 GMC Sierra has not (so far). |
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