Mine rode like an ox cart. I think it was a combination of worn out body bushings, bilsteins aggressive shocks, the polyurethane bushings in the control arms and over tightening. Whatever it was it was truly awful to the point of people commenting on it. Replaced everything with ac delco springs and shocks so we will see how it does....in a few years LOL

I wired separate grounds for the front light harness, so fingers crossed! I also did use the load resistors, though it was said they weren't needed in my case.

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Well wife gave me the go ahead to up my monthly budget so things should move at a quicker pace now. I was spending a thousand dollars a month which she wasn’t happy about. We agreed to 500 every two months but that’s a snails pace so instead of my going and getting a new truck I am gonna keep the Yukon alive as long as I can and spend 600 a month which is what the car payment for the truck I wanted was. Happy days are here again. Gonna get the chrome done then save for bodywork.

I bought the shock tower brace that braces the towers on the rear on the frame but I couldn’t get it to fit between the frame and the trunk floor. I am gonna but some longer 5/16 bolts to go through the brace and the frame and I am gonna loosen the four back body mounts up and try to jack it up far enough to slide it in and get the bolts started in my shocks. I hope it works cause I really don’t want to sell that piece.

By the way anyone ever use badger metal works to do their chrome. They gave me a reasonable estimate and a discount for the number of pieces but I have never heard any feedback good or bad on their work. I called Paul’s chrome plating and almost had a heart artack

Are you having bumpers chromed or pot metal pieces?

Pot metal pieces are not inexpensive to have restored/rechromed, I'm guessing you realize.

If you are doing driver quality, I believe bumper repops are available, as well as a number of trim items. Sometimes they are less expensive than having something rechromed/restored, especially if you factor in shipping.

Unfortunately, 64/65 stuff is a little more expensive, but bumpers are available. Parts Place has them.

If you have cores, that helps, if cores are not accepted, you can sell what you have to offset the cost of replacements.

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Thanks for the tip about the parts place

Well only I could break a brand new cage nut loose from the body. I was trying to install the UMI shock tower brace that I should have installed while the body was off the frame. I tried last week and it was just not going to fit so I called UMI and they told me that I needed to take the body mounts loose and jack up the body and the brace should slide right in.....WRONG. After messing with it for hours it was apparent to me and several other people helping me that it just was not going to go on. So anyway its up for sell but when I set the body back down the rear crossmember drivers side bushing was not seated I adjusted it as best I could but the bolt was still going in kinda cocked so I pried on the crossmember with a pry handle as I tightened the bolt. Well it broke the cage nut inside so now I have to cut a hole in my beautiful new trunk floor to weld a cage nut in. Oh well at least I can cover it with spatter paint and a mat.

Did you paint your trunk with spatter paint?

Not yet it’s still in that black EDP coating that all the AMD sheetmetal comes in. I was on the fence about spatter paint but it’s a definite now. I learned to weld in the army but I want no trace of this repair as I am already disgusted enough

I just went to the parts place website and saw the bumpers listed with a 150 core charge. Anybody ever use them before? My bumpers are good cores, some chrome flaking and of course 54 years of road tweaking and such but over all in good shape. I like the idea of knowing what I am paying versus an estimate and even if they don’t refund my core I am money ahead from some places I just wondered about the quality of the chrome. I know it’s not gonna be Paul’s plating triple nickel chrome or anything but I just wondered the quality.

I used their bumpers for the 442, and they are good to very good chrome plating, with only minor prep complaints. The very edges show a lot of roughness, and only a couple minor visible surface imperfections. Obviously not show quality, but great driver quality. They have been on the car now in the elements for going on 5 years, no signs of decay.

I saw the prices, and the core, which is why I commented they are not cheap. The cores must be hard to come by, all the popular bumpers don't require cores. I also saw AMD (I think) has un-chromed cores available, which is a good thing I guess. But you may consider keeping your originals just in case.

I used a chrome shop in Richmond one year, and not only did it take a long time, but I didn't get my original back. In researching that issue (Early/mid-2000s) I found some shops not only don't return originals, but some flat steal them, telling customers they were lost in the process. Not sure that was my situation, and if it's still a problem, but I didn't get my originals back. Something to consider.

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Well I called them and they have no 64 bumpers just wanted mine to rechrome. I already got an estimate from Badger metal finishing so I am just gonna go with them because they give a multi piece discount

Vapor-ware, figures.

I asked an old timer body guy about bumper re-chroming in SC, he told me try Carolina Plating in Greenville. Looked it up and found this info:

Carolina Plating Works, Inc
1101 West Blue Ridge Drive
Greenville, SC 29609
Phone: (864) 235-8000

He says they used to do all the body shop re-chroming since like the 60s. May be worth a call.

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Thank you as always you are on top of things. I called them and all they do is industrial plating now. Thats all anyone wants to do. I guess because of all the regulations. I have a hard chrome plater right here less than 15 minutes from me that I thought about getting my grilles and headlight bezels done by since they have to have the black painted on them anyway and its super cheap compared to real gloss chrome but I am on the fence about it. My biggest problem right now is finding someone to weld up a pop rivet size hole in the aluminum around the window on the drivers side. Everyone says their welder will melt it but I mean its so small you could literally just touch the end of the torch to it and then grind it down but nobody wants to do it. I can mig but if I had a tig I would do it myself.

You could just use JB Weld of it's that small.

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Will JB Weld take Chrome?

I am really dreading this caged nut repair. I paid 20 dollars with shipping for a caged nut from Summit. I am gonna cut a U shaped cut right where the nut is and bend the floor back weld the nut in then push the metal back down and weld it up, grind it down and then spatter paint over it. I had been debating on whether to spatter paint the trunk or not but now I guess that decision has been made for me.

No, you can't chrome JB weld. I misunderstood. So it's the windshield reveal molding that has a hole in it? those are available repop. Front set is about $150, rear set is about the same. They are not worth repairing.

Cage nut, like the captured nut in the floor pan for a body bolt? The write up Schurkey did is the go-to:

http://www.chevelles.com/techref/body_bushings.html

It's not that bad.

Use the Eastwood internal frame anti-rust stuff, or some of the rocker panel anti-rust stuff, before you close it up. And anti-seize the heck out of the bolt.

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No its the aluminum trim around the door and quarter windows