When the block was tanked, was it also magged/sonic checked?



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Howdy former neighbor!

What did you put in the water pump holes to keep the fill material from running out while you filled it about 1/3 of the way up the holes?

I just put duct tape on the outside of the opening. Then while it was setting up still not completely hard, in the back I scaped off the excess material to make room for the freeze plugs, and in the front, I removed some material so as not to restrict water flow to and from the water pump, made kind of a gradual transition.

I had it sonic tested before I had it hot tanked but I did not have it magged

This engine should have been to the machine shop two weeks ago, but I was not comfortable with the amount of dowel pin engagement. I had to locate some correct size pins, I didn't want to go oversize pins as that would require reaming the block and the caps. I finally found the correct size dowels and got them installed today. There is only one company I could find that provides the longer factory size dowel pins for a Pontiac (Precision Automotive Specialists). While installing the caps I was going over the surface with a small stone to remove any burrs that may be present and found cracks around the dowel pin hole in the rear main cap. Not too happy about it but sure glad I found it. Now I need to get a new rear main cap.

Dang that sux. Sorry bud.



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I probably have a rear main cap for 3in

you got lucky on reusing your cam, when my rod broke piece went up into it and bent the camshaft.

I might be confusing some people who are following my posts as I have two projects going on. The 455 engine that had a catastrophic failure at Norwalk, I am building a new engine to replace it, a 400 stroker (4.25 stroke) for my 65 LeMans drag car. My street car (67 LeMans) that is also a 400 stroker but with a 4.00" stroke is a fresh engine and this is the one that has the number 3 misfire. I will be pulling the head today to get that car back on the road.

I got a new rear cap thanks to Paul K. All new dowel pins installed, and I took it to the machine shop today to get line bored, cylinders bored and decked. After that heads will be milled to bring compression up a bit.

How much can ported E-Heads be safely milled?

I went a .100 thou on an 87cc head to get to 72cc no problems
after 15-20 years still useing them

GT

Mine are currently 91/92cc I'd like to get them down to around 80 or a little less. When you milled yours did you have much left to seal the top of the valve cover?

A lot, the deck is 5/8 thick. We've milled 87 cc versions to 69 and know one guy that went to 65 cc. Two things to remember;

When you mill the head excessively you loose V to P clearance fast.

Also, you'll start to loose radial valve to pocket clearance. So if your using say a 2.19 valve, you may need a pocket designed for a 2.25 valve.

Thrust Cap
 

Preparing the block for line hone the new 4-bolt Program Engineering thrust cap needs to be cut to match the thrust surface in the block. My machinist has been struggling with an easy way to determine how much to cut off the cap. He has made some calculations based off the dowel pin location, but this is not easy as the dowl pins are staggered. It will be expensive for his time to do this process. Has anyone done this machining operation?

I have a thread on here if you search 'Splayed Main DIY'. I made a way to hold the block and with an indicator I measured the amount of material to remove. You may be able to do the measurement with a depth micrometer. Once I got the number I rough machined it within a couple thou and reinstalled it and made sure I was on the right track. I came out perfect and the machine shops were very impressed with it.

Splayed Main


:)

What is the torqe spec on the outer bolts on the 4-bolt mains.?

GT

I torqued mine, 7/16" grade 8 bolts to 65 lbs.

On my 455 engine I torqued the inner and outer bolts to the same value. I used the torque spec recommended by the fastener manufacturer.