Hey thanks HWYSTR455! I missed it initially the first time I looked in the Ames catalog.

One minor issue that I decided to tackle is a slight but annoying pulsing of the power steering system when turning the wheel while standing still or very low speeds (e.g., 3 point turn).

As background, most folks who run DSE rack and pinion use a Type 2 style pump. But since I chose to use factory style brackets/accessories, I'm running a saginaw style pump (from Tuff Stuff). The flow of the pump (2.9-3.1 gal/min) and pressure (1200psi) should work with the rack, which calls for 3gal/min and max pressure of 1800psi. The reservoir is full and using A/C Delco ps fluid.

The front tires are fat (375 35) and sticky, so maybe some pulsing is to be expected at no/low speed, but I'd like to try to resolve it without having to resort to running a type 2 style pump with the factory brackets and accessories (if that's even possible).

Although the belt doesn't make any noise--no squealing or chirping, I thought this would be a good place to start. As shown in the photo, it looks like it may be too thin for the pulley, so I ordered one that's a couple mm wider.

Any other suggestions are welcome!

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...1&d=1694191959

Installed the hood latch rod grommet. The wider power steering belt seems to have helped with the low speed pulsing, but could be the belt is adjusted differently now, or a placebo effect.

I keep reading posts on the Holley forums suggesting that a fixed orifice PCV valve improves idle quality and consistency. So out of curiosity, I installed an M/E Wagner adjustable PCV valve. The valve has separate adjustable idle and cruise circuits, but I set it up for fixed orifice (which is also adjustable). It ran a little rough at first, but after adjusting the IAC and some time on the road learning, it runs better than ever. Idle is definitely smoother and stays where I have it set.

Since it's working so well I'll keep it this way, but will install an oil separator catch can to avoid problems with oil consumption.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...1&d=1694966165

She's so beautiful, Jeff! Congrats on all the hard work getting it to this point. Can't wait to see it in person!

:)

Thanks Todd, we should get together and catch up. Been super busy at the office but things should slow down in a couple weeks.

One thing I didn't consider was how much the wide tires would kick up small rocks and chip the paint behind the wheels. Thinking about installing PPF in these areas, but I'm not sure I'm bothered by the patina.


http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...1&d=1696605405

Car continues to run good with the PCV valve set up for fixed orifice, so will leave it that way. Oil has yet to accumulate in the catch can so may be able to remove it (it's kind of ugly). I'll check it again after another thousand or so miles.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...1&d=1696863072

I've been messing with the adjustments on the suspension and ride height, and at this point, I'm pretty satisfied. I have the ride height set-up about as high as it will go without having to replace the coilovers, but the car still sits pretty low. A lot lower than our '68 sitting next to it.

When my son's home for winter break I'll have him weld the subframe connector to the subframe. That's the last task on the punch list (besides painting the front bumper lip & valence bottom).

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...1&d=1696863142

Wow, what a great looking stance with those tires!

John

The car continues to run well. It's so nice to jump in it after not driving it for a couple week and it fires right up and idles.

No oil yet in the catch can, so I'll probably go ahead and remove it. The fixed orifice PCV valve really helped smooth out the idle, so that's staying put.

Adjusted the valves a couple weeks ago. Definitely quieter now.

Also changed the oil for the first time. Frank recommended Penn 15W40, so that's what I went with. I mounted the remote oil filter on the core support behind the RH headlight and was concerned it would turn into a big mess, but I left just enough room below the filter for a small Tupperware dish and rag, so not bad after all. Nothing out of the ordinary in the filter.

Suspension and rear end have settled in and are quieter now.

The manual brakes work well, but I'm going to experiment with more aggressive pads. I feel like I should be able to lock up the brakes with less effort. I didn't follow the instructions closely for bedding in the pads, so that could explain it.

Dang that thing is sweet!

Let me know if the PS belt helps, I'm curious. As I recall, the belt should consume the entire width of the pulley.

I have yet to find a backet for a type II pump with OE brackets, if they are out there, they are one-offs.

Using an OE valley pan, I doubt you will have oil consumption issues. Curious to know if you find oil in the catch can.

If your pedal ratio is correct (Top Hole in pedal) you should be good, it might just be the pads you are running, or it still needs bleeding. What pads are you running?

More initial bite-type pads might be in order, there are some Hawk pads that might work better for you. I was just talking to Tobin at Kore3 about that, maybe call him and talk to him about it.


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Thanks! It turned out pretty much like I envisioned, but more pleased than I thought I would be with the handling and ride quality.

I didn't notice much of a difference after I changed the power steering belt, but for whatever reason, the issue I mentioned previously has subsided. Maybe there was still a little air in the system that eventually bled out, or the tires are less sticky now. As I mentioned earlier, the more I drive the car, the more everything settles in.

I'm running what came with the Baer brakes, essentially a c5/6 pad. I'm going to follow their instructions to bed the brakes in properly, and go from there. If I can't get more bite with those pads, will probably try Hawk HP+.

Good to hear it's settling.

Not sure which Hawk pads Tobin was talking about, but the ones that he recommended happen to be the ones I've been running for a while on other cars, Raybestos Element3 pads.
He mentioned those are the ones he provides as baseline in many of his kits and are a go-to baseline before any 'special circumstances' are brought up.

Some pads require heat to get a good initial bite, and 15 min on the highway hitting an exit ramp can white-knuckle some people. You don't get that with the Element3 pads.


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Last week I decided to address a minor issue that's been nagging at me...turn signal blinked way too fast and erratically. I switched out the flasher that came with the AAW classic update kit with a new one I had on hand. It didn't fix the problem, so I double checked the lights, and sure enough, found that front LH parking light wouldn't blink with the turn signal or with the headlights switched on. Oddly, however the parking light blinked with the emergency flasher, and it also came on with the headlight switch pulled halfway out. hmmm. I messed around with the socket of the reproduction parking lamp housing and eventually got it to work with the headlight on, but it didn't address the issue with the turn signal blinker. I spent a few hours checking the wiring and connections in the front wiring harness to the turn signal switch, and found all was in order. So I pulled a flasher from an old wiring harness...bingo. Just so annoying to spend so much time chasing down problems attributable to new parts that just aren't made well.

Glad you got it figured out. Unfortunately that seems to be the case with so many things today, not just automotive. It makes you long for the old days for sure!

John