Yes, training base, T-38's, similar purpose to smaller base, Vance an hour from me.

Here are the actual factory round port manifold outlet sizes 2-1/16" and 2-1/8" that the 455HO was dyno'd with. I might just have to get a pair of the 2-1/2" outlet RARE manifolds. It was shocking to see these had the same outlet size as the regular log manifolds!

Dennis

Dan got some of the other project cars moved out of the garage making room for the GT-37 to move into the 'work' bay from the storage side. I decided to remove the A/C system and bought an AGM Ind. AC Delete kit for 68-72 A-Bodies. It comes with a nice fiberglass cover (not ABS plastic) with a new heater core, blower motor, custom cage fan, and sealant for the cover to firewall. It retains the controls function (except A/C of course) and the under dash ductwork and plumbing. We'll be taking pictures of the installation along the way in case anyone is interested in similar conversion. We'll be going through the brakes, suspension, rear end, and new exhaust along with the 455H.O. install with the rebuilt Borg Warner Super T-10 wide ratio 4-spd (2.64 1st gear). I need to order a new headliner kit from Ames and see what I can do with the original door panels. Actually, the passenger side is OK, the drivers panel is ripped at the top along the window, so hopefully we can replace that little section of white vinyl ourselves. We have a new black carpet set for a bench seat car with floor shifter that wasn't used on another A-body project, so it's going in the GT. The newer dash is almost assembled and ready to go in along with a nice older formula wheel to replace the original dry rotted one.

Dennis

The weather couldn't have been nicer for November in Michigan (low 70's, dry and sunny), so we took advantage of it and made a bit more progress today on the GT-37 by striping off the rest of the AC system and removing the under-dash case, then removed the pedals and brackets to rebuild and refinish. We pulled to facilitate the inner fender removal and the rest of the suit-case and evaporator. Then we made a 2 page list of parts to order from Ames...ouch!!!

We found a small spoon in the vent that feeds the defroster ducts...not sure if that was left at the factory, or Mike (455HOGT37)…??? Maybe Mike knows 'the rest of the story.'

Dennis

Here's pic's of the evaporator removed (before & after), the interior AC box removed (to be cleaned up and reinstalled) and Dan removing the wiper motor & pump (needs a new one). We removed all the firewall sound insulation and pads and they were responsible for holding moisture against all the sheet metal causing a bunch of surface rust, but no rot, thank goodness. We're going to remove it and spray a sealer on the metal before the new insulation and pads get installed. We need to get a new front speaker for the AM radio, but wondering if modernizing the audio system would be a worthwhile upgrade while its all apart. Next is to test fit the AC Delete firewall heater box.

Dennis

I know nothing about a missing spoon! I'm not sure I ever had the A/C system that far torn down.

Mike, it probably was a factory lineman stunt. I've heard of things like this happening every now and then. It must not have ever rattled around or buzzed when you had the fans on. It's not going back in, lol!

We are going to use some Loctite Extend (or Permatex's version of it) rust neutralizer on the rusty areas after wire brushing the loose stuff off and follow up painting it with matt black paint. Then bead blasting the brake/clutch pedals for new paint and install new bushings. We'll clean and check out the inner heater/ac box for reinstallation, then onto getting the dash back in. We got a bunch of parts from Ames (firewall insulation, kick plates/panels, e-brake pedal, etc. to get the interior looking better.

Dennis

I took the day off yesterday to work on the GT-37 with Dan. We spent the whole day neutralizing the surface rust with Loctite Extend and then installing the new firewall insulation cover, inside heater box and new AC delete cover in the engine compartment along with the supplied new heater core, fan motor and cage fan. We were surprised we got it done in a day. The new fiberglass firewall box/cover isn't drilled at the attachment points, so there was a lot of on & off, and for the fan motor and aux hose too. The worst part was the smell of the Extend when fresh, so we used a floor box fan to dry it faster and evacuate the fumes.

Dennis

It looks like the re-circulation vent in the passenger side kick panel was removed some time ago with a homemade sheet metal block off cover, a little duct tape, a couple of sheet metal screws, and a liberal amount of silicone sealant...viola, hole sealed! We just left it in place as it wouldn't affect the performance of the new non-AC system...too much.

Dennis

Looks like my handywork.. HAHA Love this car Dennis, love watching the progress. Dan's car made me into a Canyon fiend as a young man, and i love seeing all of them!

Thanks Adam. Dan's T-37 sure was an eye-opener back when he started racing and showing it over 35 years :eek: ago. Now I have 2 canyon cars too, this GT-37 and the Formula 455HO. This GT-37 isn't going to be as nice as the Formula (or especially Dan's T-37), but it's sure going to be fun to drive. Thanks for following along.

Dennis

I agree Dennis, your GT-37 is mega cool, major fun filled car.

Thanks Rich! I'm sure I'll piss-off a few people that think this car should be restored (and it should some day, but not by me...I can't afford that expense) and with changes I'm making, but at my age, I want to get it back on the road to enjoy driving it and not be worried about scratching a 35k paint job and getting the underside dirty. I'm still thinking about blowing some faded Canyon Copper paint on the primered spots and adding new GT stripes, but we'll see as we get further into it. The biggest deviation I've made is removing the factory AC system for the AC Delete kit, but I never liked AC on any GM A-body (or F-body).

Dennis

Dennis driver quality patina cars, produce the biggest grins

Agreed Rich! We made a bit more progress this weekend by removing the front valance to get the AC condenser/dryer out along with the original front wire harness (lights/horn). We replaced the old harness that had some spliced wires with a 'newer' original uncut one. We also cut in the hole in the new heater case for the blower resistor and the hood tach defroster line nipple, rivet and all. We got a front end fastener kit from Ames (AMK) to replace the variety of bolts that were installed in no particular order, or just MIA. This GT-37 is proving to be a fun challenge in the re-assembly process.

Everyone have a great (and safe) Thanksgiving!

Dennis

...here are the pics I forgot to post...

Dennis, is there any trick to getting the inner fender out? I need to change a heater core on mine and took all the bolts I could see out and it wouldn't budge.

I just did the heater core on my 71 GTO non AC car. I had to remove the rocker molding, the lower fender bolts, the inner fender well to fender bolts in the front of the wheel well (there's a bracket that attaches the two), the washer fluid jug, and all the inner fender bolts. Then you have to pull the lower fender outward and rotate and flex the inner to clear the upper A arm. At least that's what I did to get mine out, I wasn't to worried about scratching the inner on this car.

The heater core comes out from the inside of the car attached to the inner heater box, so you need to remove the inner glove box and disconnect all the cables and wires before you remove the box. The core is held in with a couple of spring clips.

Don't forget to replace the blower motor while your in there and clean out any mouse nests. Which is why mine had to come apart.

OCMDGTO, Yep, just like pggto said, just remove all the bolts that attach the inner fender AND the 2 bottom fender bolts. I was able to remove my fender well with the rocker molding on, but was very careful not to bend it when I pulled the lower fender out an inch and with tugging/twisting the fender well to make it drop out. Just go slowly...you may want to remove the rocker molding just to be on the safe side.

Dennis

We are waiting for some original parts to arrive, so progress has slowed a bit, but in the meantime we glass-beaded the rusty clutch/brake pedals and mounting brackets along with the steering column collar that attached to the firewall. We are replacing the parking brake mechanism with a repop from Ames that isn't 100% correct, but looks much better than the rusty original. The under-dash area is starting to look pretty nice...unfortunately most people will never see that, but it's nice knowing it is mostly rust free now and protected.

Dennis