The lab has all kinds of tests including both of those... they can tell exactly what the aluminum is made up of also..

Thanks. I'll certainly try that.

Then the spool is shifted in the valve which shuts off one side of the system if there is a differential in pressure. The valve has both systems plumbed into it, front and rear. The spool can be pushed back manually at the rubber boot, if it's not stuck over to one side with corrosion. Once you center the spool in the valve it will open up the rear half of the system allowing fluid back to the wheel cylinders.

Sorry I missed where you said you replaced the wheel cylinders. When you get fluid coming to the rear don't try to pressure bleed the system or you'll shift that valve again as soon as you pressurize the system. Just leave the bleeders open for a minute or two and let it gravity bleed, close the bleeders and you should be done. I hope this helps you.

I get the same thing with both bleeders out. Thing is, with the replacement of the wheel cylinders and the lack of fluid in them the pedal should have gone straight to the floor.

Today 03:41 PM
Sirrotica
I've seen the hole in the bleeder fill with rust and have had to remove the bleeder and actually run a drill through the hole to remove the built up crud. I'd be looking at removing the bleeder and see if it's open or not first.
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Yesterday 07:41 PM
azbirds
From what I've seen you are very knowledgeable so I have a diagnosis question for you. I parked my 69 Bird to put a 2nd Gen diff in it. Everything worked great when parked. The new diff has all new brake parts and I'm using the old flex and hard lines. Opened the rr bleeder and all I have is a sold pedal and no fluid. I thought booster or master, but I removed the master from booster and the pedal hits the floor. So I thought master and replaced it. Some pedal won't move problem. Is it a stuck prop valve? Been doing this since around 1978 and Never come across this. What does your experience say?

I've seen the hole in the bleeder fill with rust and have had to remove the bleeder and actually run a drill through the hole to remove the built up crud. I'd be looking at removing the bleeder and see if it's open or not first.

My e-mail address is mikebramer69@gmail.com I will look at the links tonight when time is available. I don't have a car to compete, but I want to build a small cube Pontiac that will do some ass kickiin'. Steel heads can be worked to flow some decent air, but I don't like the chambers. Small valve closed chamber heads may lend to a modern chamber design.

As you can see here SVRA doesn't even list a Pontiac Engine due mainly to no one willing to try and build one. http://www.svra.com/wp-content/uploa...c_Firebird.pdf
But they generally require Iron heads.
HSR doesn't even list a specific rules set for a Firebird but look at the Mustang and it'll mimic it. http://hsrrace.com/wp-content/upload...70_-HSR_16.pdf
I run in Gr-5 in the S1 class http://hsrrace.com/wp-content/upload...ses-5.8.16.pdf
If I built a 303 I could run in the HTA class, but building a 400-440 is so much easier. I run 5+ events a season so I have to stay with what'll stay together or is easily replaced.
I'd suggest figuring out what Sanction you plan to run in and build accordingly, unless you're just building a track day car.

Depends on what sanction and class you run it. SVRA has the old HTA class 303 limit which I think is actually closer to 310 with allowed overbore. HSR has various classes from the HTA 303 up to the S1 class which is 428 for a 69 or earlier.
Our group, Outlaw Vintage Racing, is regional only to the Southeast, we have no cu in limits, only a pwr-wt ratio.
I'd prefer a 303 short deck build for my next engine but it's damn near impossible. A Crank is hard to come by, aftermarket block bore is too big, a 301 takes a lot of extra work and no intake exists for a short deck. If you get one figured out please share, maybe we could pool resources.
Most lead pack cars running HTA are SBC or SBF and run dry sump, and they spin around 8000 rpm. Building a 303 Pontiac out of a 301 to compete against that? I'd like to see it, I just can't figure out how to do it.

Hi. I just saw this post today. Can you give me an email address or phone number to correspond with you better? Feel free to text me. Thanks, Greg. ph. 210-326-6503