The short duration of the cam I suggested will build more dynamic compression, that is what you need with your lower static compression. The short overlap is what you need for running exhaust manifolds. More duration will make your bottom end soft and you will need to spin it up more to try to make up for what you loose down low, that is if your valve train allows the RPM. I am not an advocate of bigger cams if it just makes for a less efficient engine at lower RPM. More duration doesn't make more power, it just moves the power band up in a higher RPM band. What will give you more power is if you wanted to get some bowl work and a performance 3 angle valve job on your heads. Another thing to consider is if you go too big on the cam you may end up needing longer valves that will support the additional lift.

In my 67 LeMans street car, PS, PB, AC, TH-400, I have a 400 bored to 4.190 with a 4" stroke crank, 441 ci. It's basically a bored out 428. It has 6X-8 heads, factory manifold with a Q-Jet, 9.0:1 compression, stock converter, TH-400 and 3.23 gears. Has the RA exhaust manifolds and 2-1/2 exhaust to the rear bumper with Walker Dynomax 17749 mufflers and I run that small 213/219 Lunati cam I recommended for your car. The one and only time I took it to the drags to see what it would do it ran a 13.36, shifting at 5200 RPM. I had to ease it out of the hole very carefully because if I hammered it, the 275/60/15 tires would spin to beyond redline. With sticky tires would probably be running high 12's in the 1/4 and this is without any tuning. My heads have been ported, and that is where the power comes from and not a big camshaft.

Tim
NOS 66/67 Drivers side front wheel well molding. 100.00 plus shipping. Postal Money Order is fine. What is your address so I can figure shipping.
Thanks Rich

I need the drivers side rear molding, how much? Thanks, Tim