[69fireburger]

I don't have any drill bits that small and I'm pretty sure I'd break them if I did. Are there any vendors that sell plugs that have already been drilled?

Thanks,
Bob

[ponyakr]

There are several guys on this forum, who work in machine shops, who can drill one with a press and send it to you, if they will.

http://www.pontiaczone.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26033

I use to buy mine from H-O Racing Specialties. P dude use to sell 'em. Don't know if he has any left or not ?

These threads mention a couple of solutuions. One is to use a softer iron plug. One is to use an alum plug. Another is to use a larger bit, then peen the hole shut, and resize it with a small bit.


http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...il+galley+plug

http://psp.aquacomp.net/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=5326

[berniearlta]

If you can't find a drilled plug, buy a micro drill bit set from Ebay. Under eight dollars shipped and comes with a pin vise. Go slow and not much pressure or the .030 bit will surly break.

[cnc]

Butler

[ponyakr]

Originally Posted by cnc

Butler

Yeah, Butler, KRE, Spotts, Tin Indian, Sandoval, and ANY decent Pontiac engine builder, with a complete shop CAN drill 'em.

BUT, who knows where to call to actually get one sent to you, for a reasonable price, without buying a bunch of other stuff with it.

I assume this is what the OP really needs to know.

So, if somebody knows a source and price, FOR SURE, please post that info. It will not only help him, but will give others who read this thread a source, as well.

Since some say this is such an easy thing to do, maybe you could do up several dozen and provide a source for lots of Pontiac guys who are building their own engines, without a GOOD Pontiac machine shop. Looks like you might have a corner on the market, if you do it 1st.

[J.C.you]

Not to diss the hole in the plug deal, but keep the oil pressure in a sane range, buy a simms chain/ needle bearing camshaft retainer setup to keep the cam from walking and you will have many thousands of miles of trouble free distributor gear service...... And your timing chain will thank you too.

[2nd67GTO]

KRE had one on the shelf when I built my motor.

[cnc]

Butler I thought had a listing when I ordered my stuff last year
Maybe they don't now...

[steve25]

Get a brass pipe plug ( Moroso and others have sets of aluminum)and the drill bit ( many hobby shops carry a 10 bit set) then drill out the plug with a 1/4" bit until you are.060" away from breaking thru, then drill the rest of the way thru with the .030" bit.
Your done with it in 4 minutes!!!

[ponyakr]

"...Moroso and others have sets of aluminum..."


This it ?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mo...RwwBoCSV7w_wcB

Or, how 'bout a blue single ?

http://www.amazon.com/Aeroquip-FCM36...lum+pipe+plugs

Jeg's has a pair, in black, blue or red, for $4.11 + shipping.

http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performan...52570/10002/-1

These work on alum ?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-21pc-HSS...-/231714927665

So, there you go Bob. Cheap tools, plugs, and instructions. Bet you can do it !

[Cliff R]

This topic has been covered extensively over the years.

I don't care what anyone regurgitates here, it's nearly IMPOSSIBLE to drill a .030" hole thru a thick NPT plug without breaking the bit, and that's if you have purchased a high quality bit, not the junk sold at Harbor Freight and you're using a relatively "soft" plug.

Most of the black oxide plugs are hardened, and they aren't drilling easily no matter what method you try to use on them. So far the plugs in the freeze plug sets are relatively "soft", and for the most part any steel plug bought at a hardware or fastener store will be "hardened".

We drill a LOT of them here, and I use one of three methods with 100 percent success.

1. Drill a slightly larger hole than needed then "peen" it shut and final drill with a good quality .030" drill bit in a pin vise, quick, easy and not fussy.

2. Drill a lager hole and tap for a brass set screw, #6-32 or #8-32 works fine, then drill the .030" hole in the set screw.

3. Obtain a "soft" plug and drill most of the way thru it with a larger bit, then final drill with a .030" bit. The reason you must drill most of the way thru with a larger bit is that "soft" material tends to build up in the flutes and bind the tiny .030" bit up and snap it off.

For all engines built here, we add a .030" hole in the plug behind the distributor, and another one in the front of the block to spray the timing set. The one if the front is optional, and some say it's overkill, I see nothing wrong with too much lube on a highly stressed part like a timing set.......Cliff

[Blued and Painted]

I found an anodized aluminum plug, allen drive. It was easy to drill. A large hole then a .025 bit for the final 1/3. Cuz thats how i roll.

Expect the dis-similar metal critics to jump in.

In an oil rich environment, dont think there is much chance of corrosion in my life time.

Hooked my plug to and oil caddy regulated at 40psi.. Shot a stream of cold oil 20 feet.

[Region Warrior]

.025 WILL NOT WORK! Has to be .030

[lfdsteve]

I bought a package of 5 .030 bits from an online store. Drilled a hole the size of the plug in a chunk of 2x4. Placed plug in wood and drilled w my drill press and some cutting oil. Plug came in my jegs plug kit. Didn't break a thing... What am I missing?
Steve

[69fireburger]

Thanks for all the advice. I was able to obtain the small bit. I used the method of drilling through, peening almost closed, then drilling the small hole. The whole process took less than ten minutes. Thanks again.

[Cliff R]

The method that you used greatly reduces the chance of snapping off the tiny bit. Some additional time is spent peening the hole closed, but you aren't going to snap off a tiny .030" bit sizing the small amount of material left from the peening operation.

The biggest reason drilling clear thru with a .030" bit is not successful is the very poor quality of most of the drill bits one is likely to obtain these days. All of the offshore stuff is too hard/brittle, and most of it is also very poorly sized. Don't every mic a set of numbered offshore drill bits, they also have a bad habit of using the same shank size then only machining the very end of them for different sizes thru a range of bits.

One thing I forgot to add is to take a very sharp punch and hit the plug in the center before you start the drilling process, especially if it's a hardened plug. The cavity will hold some oil, the divit produced by the punch will keep the drill bit on center and get it into the softer material as you start the drilling process.

Nearly any hobbyist at any skill level can accomplish this task without spending a lot of money or having a machine shop available to them, you just have to have a little guidance and then come up with a plan.......Cliff

[gtofreek]

I spin the drill bit fast, and hold the plug in my fingers, bracing the palms of my hands on the drill press table, and I slowly feed the plug up into the drill bit. Takes about 30 seconds to a minute to drill all the way through. I do it dry, that way the chips fly out. Done it this way for years, and have only broken 1 drill bit so far. Drilled probably a hundred or more plugs this way so far.

[Tom Vaught]

Originally Posted by J.C.you

Not to diss the hole in the plug deal, but keep the oil pressure in a sane range, buy a simms chain/ needle bearing camshaft retainer setup to keep the cam from walking and you will have many thousands of miles of trouble free distributor gear service...... And your timing chain will thank you too.

Agree on the timing chain/ distributor gear suggestion.

I add the .030" oil hole as much to remove trapped oil in the passenger side oil gallery (and crud that always seems to collect on that dead head side of the engine block.

After the mod the oil passage stays clean and the hydraulic lifters seem to have less trapped air in them.

Very easy to take a hardened plug, heat it to bright red hot and then let it cool. The hardness treatment will be gone and the plug can be easily drilled.

Used to do the same deal with the set screws (going into the lifter gallery passages)
Now I buy Smith Brothers restricted pushrods.

Tom V.

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by gtofreek

I spin the drill bit fast, and hold the plug in my fingers, bracing the palms of my hands on the drill press table, and I slowly feed the plug up into the drill bit. Takes about 30 seconds to a minute to drill all the way through. I do it dry, that way the chips fly out. Done it this way for years, and have only broken 1 drill bit so far. Drilled probably a hundred or more plugs this way so far.

I have used a similar method, along with cobalt drill bits. Haven't broken more than 1 or 2 bits in the last 30 years

[Sun Tuned]

All good ideas as mentioned above.

I had initially let my neighbor who is a machinist wire edm a box of 25 for me.

Now all you gotta do is go to your local engine supply house and get them to look in the Pioneer listing and order you a box of 25 "vented plugs".

Yep you sure can they have a 1/32" hole dead in the middle right out of the box.
Bought some last Friday for a 427 chevy I'm building. I was rather shocked at the fact they had a listing much less had some on shelf. Had him look up the plug for the Pontiac and sure enough....

Easy as pie.