[keith k]

Originally Posted by Gator67

When you say package tray trim are you referring to the main package tray piece itself (the hard board covered in mesh material) or some part of it? The one I received from Legendary is closer to the light sandalwood. If it’s the wrong color I guess I could paint it (have to mod it regardless because of the roll bar), but not sure how well paint would hold on that material.

Yes, that part.
I would not be surprised if the reproduction parts houses don't get the color right... they've probably never seen a good original sandalwood interior car to base their colors on.
If it's the wrong color, you'll probably want to use a trim parts dye, not paint.
But at the end of the day, you'd do fine just going with whatever color looks best to you!

[Gator67]

The new windows are installed and work great. Used the original hardware that I took off the car, but not sure the original hardware is correct. As shown in the photo, the only door panel bracket with a pad for the window is the center one (circled in blue) The two outer brackets (circled in green) do not have pads or provisions for pads. Is this right? I looked at my son's 79 and all three brackets have pads, so this got me wondering.

[Gator67]

Starting to look like a car.



The headliner was/is a real pain. Those aftermarket clips are horrible.

Front seats turned out like I expected they would. As you can see, the Specialist M has a relatively flat seat bottom...age appropriate I guess. I just thought the comfort, ease of ingress/egress, and period aesthetics were more important given how I plan to use the car.



The rear armrest panels turned out just OK, so I think I'm going to have the upholster do those as well. Fortunately I bought plenty of material.



I found out that Legendary gets their carpet from ACC, and they had a yard of what I needed in stock, so all set there now.

Speaking of Legendary. I opened the package tray, and it was sticky, almost like the paint wasn't dry. I guess I'll see what happens. If they need to remake it, I'll ask them to use a darker shade of Sandalwood, thought I suspect that will really slow things down.

[1965gp]

The seats look great!

[GREGGDOG]

Looks great Jeff - love the seats. You're going to be very happy with those seats and find you really need those bolsters, especially in a 70' seat with your beastly power.

[Gator67]

I opened the AAW classic update kit so I could wire the back of the car...I had no idea I would have build it all myself...I thought it would be more plug and play. It's doubly confusing because the kit and instructions are based on Camaro...separate instruction sheets and small bags of parts where there are differences. This is just like one of 10 bags in the kit. Fortunately, I saved the old harnesses.

[HWYSTR455]

Those seats turned out great, maybe I should have reupholstered mine! I ended up with Corbeaus, and am picking up a trick from the fox body and 3rd gen guys, using chevy cobalt/Pontiac G5 shoulder belt guides, which use the headrest posts to mount, just drill an extra hole and bang. Same would apply to Recaros, post spacing I believe is somewhat standard. (original thread on 3rd gen site and pic attached)

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/inte...i-fitment.html

The pads on the window guides are glued on the bracket, pretty sure mine had all 3 padded, I was the 2nd owner of my 71, took it apart. I suspect they fell off, the glue dries out sometime.

AAW uprade harness, getting ready to do my 71, did one on the tribute car, and did another for a member here for a 79-81 T/A. Couple things:

Buy the AMP/Packard 56 crimpers from AAW, or source them somewhere else.

https://www.amazon.com/American-Auto...9874185&sr=8-2

Or use crimpers that are of good quality. It's helps. I got extra terminals and did a couple practice crimps on some doubles.

On my 2 harnesses, none of the sockets have seals, so you can either buy the seals, or the 'socket kit', which comes with terminals, seals. (believe the OE ones are moulded.)

ALL the wires are way long, which is actually a good thing. It's gives you the option to route differently, if you want. You can use an OE as a guide, but you don't really get the 'upgrade' if you copy it exactly. For example, if you plan to use anything other than LED headlights, you should do the relay upgrade.

Save all the scrap wire for a little while, since the wires are all long, you have some pretty long pieces left over. They have writing on them for specific loads, and you can later use it for any add-on requirements.

Remove wire runs you don't plan on using. Release the terminal from the connector and plug if required. BATT, and Key-On runs you can leave, for future accessories.

You can use different connectors too, like weatherpack, metripack, etc. The main consideration when choosing connectors is amp rating. Pick the right connector for the amps of the circuit.

Don't zip-tie bundles of wires permanently, they need to move some in use. Use a nylon mesh type, like expandable or 'self-closing' sleeving, or a combo:

https://www.delcity.net/store/Loom-&...SAAEgJTX_D_BwE

You can always add, check, troubleshoot if you use the self-closing sleeving, but for single or low wire runs, the expandable if fine. I use wire shrink tubing on the ends of the wire segments to give a clean look.

I used the OE harness to determine the length from the one dash mount point on the driver's side to the firewall, then built the rest of the harness on a bench 'into' the back of the dash, working away from that mount point on dash. Those [ ] type clips that hold the OE harness in that channel I reused. I used a Metripack connector for the gauge cluster(s) leaving a little slack, you can still pull the dash bezel out, or whatever gauge cluster you use. It's easier to install the harness while it's attached to the dash, install it as one unit.

Not all the diagrams that are provided with the kit are used, some depend on specific years, or specific options. Go thru them all, and the ones that apply, put an asterik in the corner and set the unused ones aside. mark up the diagram with notes, mods, etc, and save. Best to also reference the OE diagrams, but I've found they are not very accurate.

I'll post picks once I get more done, and will do a build thread, will be a few weeks out.

.

[Gator67]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

AAW uprade harness, getting ready to do my 71, did one on the tribute car, and did another for a member here for a 79-81 T/A. Couple things...I'll post picks once I get more done, and will do a build thread, will be a few weeks out.

Thanks for all the tips! I spent yesterday studying the diagrams and laying everything out. Now I understand why the kit is recommended for cars like this...easy to incorporate EFI, fuel pump, etc. Doing this also reminded me about a bunch of things I need to address.

First was the wiring for the T56 Magnum, which came with plugs for electronic speedo, backup light, and reverse lock out. The first two are easy...I think...but the last one had me stumped. After considering a few options (including not running reverse lock out), I broke down and ordered Bowler's all in one harness. It includes a small sealed box that operates the reverse lock out from the speedo signal. It was the most expensive option, but much better than wiring it to the brake switch, or using a stand alone box from a different vendor which would involve additional wiring.

I also thought about a neutral safety switch. There is a half-moon NSS on the steering column that came with my car. This is weird given that the car is originally MT (and I believe the half moon version is for AT), but maybe the column was changed out at some point. Anyways, I considered not running one to keep things simple, but the thought of someone (including me) accidentally launching the car at startup worries me. I'm thinking the easiest route here would be to use the type of NSS that goes on the clutch pedal. The only thing I'm not sure of at this point is whether I need to use a relay with this switch?

I also noticed that the AAW kit did not come with an ignition switch box. So I was thinking I would reuse the one on the original steering column. But then I realized that the Ididit steering column I'm planning to use does not have accommodations for an ignition switch box. There's an ignition key switch in the factory location, but instead of a switch box there's a wired relay kit. I'm assuming this serves the same function, and I think I figured out how to wire it. But what I discovered is the configuration of relays will not work with EFI system, so I had to order new relay kit from AAW.

It was an expensive day!

[HWYSTR455]

I think the combo 'moon' switch is common across both MT and AT cars, and is activated by the back drive linkage. Not sure, but that's what my swiss-cheese memory keeps coming up with.

The NSS function is basically to interrupt the starter SOL S wire under a 'condition', such as either not in N or whatever. Think the factory uses either a 12g or 14g wire, so whatever interrupt switch you use needs to be able to handle the amps. Let's say for example it's 12g (pretty sure it is), which would mean <20a circuit.

I say yes, use the OE type pedal switch, but, you could also wire in line with the reverse switch. Still won't help prevent cranking in reverse, but it's better than nothing if you want the safety feature.

The IGN switch relay setup won't work with EFI? Does the key lock have an ACC position, and key-on PWR position (wo cranking)? That's all that's needed.

I've never done an Ididit column, so new territory for me.

.

[Gator67]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

The IGN switch relay setup won't work with EFI? Does the key lock have an ACC position, and key-on PWR position (wo cranking)? That's all that's needed.

I've never done an Ididit column, so new territory for me.

As I understand it, the problem is that the switch used in their columns results in a power drop out between crank and run, which messes with the computer and system shuts down. Some EFI systems are more sensitive to the signal loss than others (e.g., FAST and MAST). I bought my column 5-6 years ago, so very possible that Ididit updated their switches or at least include the set of relays which addresses this.

[HWYSTR455]

Ahh, I get it. So it's in the key switch itself. Maybe call them and ask tech. Would be a bummer if you had to have an additional switch.

.

[Gator67]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Ahh, I get it. So it's in the key switch itself. Maybe call them and ask tech. Would be a bummer if you had to have an additional switch.

The relay kit is actually just a different version of the relay kit that originally came with the Ididit column I purchased. It just plugs into the connector in the column, and on the other end, connects to the AAW harness. It takes the place of the ignition switch box that's normally mounted on the column itself. As an aside, the Ididit wiring and relays come from AAW, so easy to connect column wiring to the AAW harness. The only bummer was having to pay for the new relay set up.

On another note, I see tons of options for sleeving on the Delcity website...based on your experience, do you have suggestions about which specific items I need, and how much I might need, to buy to finish 2 cars?

[HWYSTR455]

Del-City was an example, you kind of have to shop it, mainly because many places only sell spools, not cut lengths. Cut lengths, prices vary.

I was just looking at Grainger, and they seem reasonable in price. You want the PET type nylon split sleeving, and in general, the most common used sizes are 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4, but you might need other diameters. I say start with those 3, and as you start using it, you can figure out what you'll need.

https://www.grainger.com/category/el...SAAEgLSdvD_BwE

The split sleeve overlaps by like 25%, and to create a 'branch' of wires, you cut small windows in the sleeving, and stuff a smaller sleeving in the larger one. You can use electrical or harness tape to finish the ends & branches.

How much depends on how you wrap it all, you can go 'lean' or go 'crazy', it kind of depends on how you want/do it. Since it can get pricey, I say start with a small batch of the 3 sizes, and go from there.

The expandable sleeving is really for small wire bundles, and it doesn't allow for easy addition of wires, so start with the split stuff. The expandable is less expensive, and I used it for certain lighting wires, etc, that I know aren't going to change. I use adhesive shring tubing to finish the ends on those.


.

[HWYSTR455]

Here's a couple examples I could find quickly. The larger harness is the EFI ECU harness, and I created sub-harnesses for sensors, injectors, etc. Used a combo of connectors that could not be connected in anyway but the correct way.

The other is the engine harness which started out as the AAW one. Removed all unused wires, and since the wires would not change, I used expandable sleeving, and adhesive shink wrap. And a closeup of the ends.


.

[Gator67]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Here's a couple examples I could find quickly. The larger harness is the EFI ECU harness, and I created sub-harnesses for sensors, injectors, etc. Used a combo of connectors that could not be connected in anyway but the correct way.

The other is the engine harness which started out as the AAW one. Removed all unused wires, and since the wires would not change, I used expandable sleeving, and adhesive shink wrap. And a closeup of the ends.


.

Those look terrific. I now have hope that my wiring won't look like a bowl of spaghetti!

[Ramairnacho]

Originally Posted by Gator67

Thanks for all the tips! I spent yesterday studying the diagrams and laying everything out. Now I understand why the kit is recommended for cars like this...easy to incorporate EFI, fuel pump, etc. Doing this also reminded me about a bunch of things I need to address.

First was the wiring for the T56 Magnum, which came with plugs for electronic speedo, backup light, and reverse lock out. The first two are easy...I think...but the last one had me stumped. After considering a few options (including not running reverse lock out), I broke down and ordered Bowler's all in one harness. It includes a small sealed box that operates the reverse lock out from the speedo signal. It was the most expensive option, but much better than wiring it to the brake switch, or using a stand alone box from a different vendor which would involve additional wiring.

I also thought about a neutral safety switch. There is a half-moon NSS on the steering column that came with my car. This is weird given that the car is originally MT (and I believe the half moon version is for AT), but maybe the column was changed out at some point. Anyways, I considered not running one to keep things simple, but the thought of someone (including me) accidentally launching the car at startup worries me. I'm thinking the easiest route here would be to use the type of NSS that goes on the clutch pedal. The only thing I'm not sure of at this point is whether I need to use a relay with this switch?

I also noticed that the AAW kit did not come with an ignition switch box. So I was thinking I would reuse the one on the original steering column. But then I realized that the Ididit steering column I'm planning to use does not have accommodations for an ignition switch box. There's an ignition key switch in the factory location, but instead of a switch box there's a wired relay kit. I'm assuming this serves the same function, and I think I figured out how to wire it. But what I discovered is the configuration of relays will not work with EFI system, so I had to order new relay kit from AAW.

It was an expensive day!

Hi
Looks like your making good progress. I personal and going new plug and chug , yes its more but the time variable to me is important. I just want to plug things in now. My dads ram air formula had warrning lights and as a kid I always wanted guages it been a quest and now Im just going new. I noticed your steering colum, if I remember correctly the tilt steering isint wired the same as standard steering but I may be wrong. I have aquestion of your steering hub. When you repaint it how are you going to texture the paint or are you leaving it smooth. Originally they where painted with crackle paint. I was told to mimmick this you heat the hub then paint it and the paint will crackle then another person told me to use textured spray paint. Please share you idea s on hub restoration and ypur experience correctly restoring hub.
thanks
Ignacio

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Gator67

Those look terrific. I now have hope that my wiring won't look like a bowl of spaghetti!

I admit, some sections/sub-harnesses I had to redo, but it was worth it to me. From the engine compartment, 95% of the harness is hidden. I still have a couple things I want to change, but getting other stuff done first, while I drive it.

I did the hot start fix using a ford type SOL, that is mounted close to the firewall connector. That allows moving all the starter wires away from the starter. And, of course, the wire to the starter is only hot during cranking. That area I still need to clean up a little.

Here's an under dash shot showing the column connections for an OE column, can see harness tape wrapped on the ends of loom.

.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Ramairnacho

Hi
Looks like your making good progress. I personal and going new plug and chug , yes its more but the time variable to me is important. I just want to plug things in now. My dads ram air formula had warrning lights and as a kid I always wanted guages it been a quest and now Im just going new. I noticed your steering colum, if I remember correctly the tilt steering isint wired the same as standard steering but I may be wrong. I have aquestion of your steering hub. When you repaint it how are you going to texture the paint or are you leaving it smooth. Originally they where painted with crackle paint. I was told to mimmick this you heat the hub then paint it and the paint will crackle then another person told me to use textured spray paint. Please share you idea s on hub restoration and ypur experience correctly restoring hub.
thanks
Ignacio

I haven't heard that you can mimic wrinkle paint by heating the part first, but I know that wrinkle paint is available in aerosol cans. But I hear it's not easy to get results like original.

If you want to cut corners, the hub itself is available reproduced, that has the wrinkle paint on it already.


.

[Gator67]

Started the Vintage Air install. I had a stud welded on the inside of the firewall prior to paint, so hanging the main unit was quick and easy. I plan to run the hoses per the instructions over the top of the inner fender (under the outer fender) though the RH kick panel. Even though the car was originally non-A/C I'll be using A/C kick panels for a cleaner look (no vent knobs, and modded cover on the RH side will hide hoses). I'm also going to install the center vents in the dash like an A/C car.





Interior pieces are mostly all dyed now. Not sure the colors are 100% correct but the dark and light sandalwood hues look great together.



Digital Dakota RTX gauges...was impressed how well they mimic factory design.

As much as I love engine turned TA gauge bezel, I think I'm going to stick with Firebird wood grain. Will make the required holes in my non-A/C non-gauges bezel using a Greenlee punch.

[Ramairnacho]

Originally Posted by Gator67

Started the Vintage Air install. I had a stud welded on the inside of the firewall prior to paint, so hanging the main unit was quick and easy. I plan to run the hoses per the instructions over the top of the inner fender (under the outer fender) though the RH kick panel. Even though the car was originally non-A/C I'll be using A/C kick panels for a cleaner look (no vent knobs, and modded cover on the RH side will hide hoses). I'm also going to install the center vents in the dash like an A/C car.





Interior pieces are mostly all dyed now. Not sure the colors are 100% correct but the dark and light sandalwood hues look great together.



Digital Dakota RTX gauges...was impressed how well they mimic factory design.

As much as I love engine turned TA gauge bezel, I think I'm going to stick with Firebird wood grain. Will make the required holes in my non-A/C non-gauges bezel using a Greenlee punch.

I notices your cluster. Why is there a sticker green on them? And did someone glue the rings on the cluster face. These are mine .I. doing a conversion from warning lights to rally guages.
Im.not sure what years you car is . But a wood grain bezel with ac and guages is what I recommend., if possible. Be careful trying to drill out holes since clear coat might crack or peel. I was going down that route and realized less stress to find one that had factory holes cut out and a defogg bezel plate cut out.