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transamfan1981 · 01-22-2009, 10:33 PM

Does anyone have an experience with a quater panel skin. I am considering useing one. I wnat to know how they look and what needs to be done to apply them. Thanks in advance. Steve

critter · 01-23-2009, 11:08 PM

Are we discussing the partial quarter skins offered by the aftermarket?

transamfan1981 · 01-24-2009, 11:41 AM

Yes, after market. They are from usbody.com

critter · 01-24-2009, 10:24 PM

I wish I could help. I've seen them but I'm leery. After market panels don't have the best reputation out there with good body guys.

transamfan1981 · 01-25-2009, 06:52 PM

I wish I could find an N.O.S or O.E.M panel. I know of a person who is selling a pair of N.O.S. panels, but when he cut them off of his car he didn't do straight cuts and destroyed the curve around the rear window.

critter · 01-25-2009, 09:59 PM

I have one NOS panel for my passenger side but the NOS quarters for the 74 Trans Am are out of this world price wise. One year only. I'd take a driver's side from a parts car if I could find it but the pickings have been slim.

transamfan1981 · 01-26-2009, 05:02 PM

The 74 quaters are one year? You couldn't use a 73 or 75?

critter · 01-26-2009, 09:46 PM

If you stitched in only the lower section, yes, you could. The 1974 quarter has the small back glass and the cutout for the new bumper. In 1975 the new wrap around rear glass came in. That's why 1974 is a one year only quarter.

transamfan1981 · 01-27-2009, 05:08 PM

Oh. I'm glad I don't have to find a quater for a one year only design. I was looking a my PY catalog they have the full quater skin too. They also have the lower quater patch panel. It's 11" high and 21" long.

critter · 01-27-2009, 09:11 PM

Like I said, the aftermarket stuff is going to require some work. I have not heard any reports that say they fit like a glove.

transamfan1981 · 01-27-2009, 09:35 PM

yeah, neither have I. I'm sure you'd have to cut the rust out, but then you've got a huge hole. If your going to do that you midas well cut out the rust cut a peice of sheet metal to size and weld it in... ya know! From What I hear putting in a quater skin is a bigger process then doing something like that

pontiacstogo · 01-30-2009, 12:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by transamfan1981

yeah, neither have I. I'm sure you'd have to cut the rust out, but then you've got a huge hole. If your going to do that you midas well cut out the rust cut a peice of sheet metal to size and weld it in... ya know! From What I hear putting in a quater skin is a bigger process then doing something like that

Problem is that the outer-wheelhouse is normally rusty too. That's the reason the replacement quarter skins are the size they are - you need to remove that much of the exterior skin in order to remove and replace the outer wheelhouse and trunk extension;

It's a good couple of days work, but if you buy an outer wheelhouse and trunk extension as well, it's really not too bad of a job. Of course, a full quarter is a much better choice if you can find one. Finished product (roll on spring);

superdutybob · 01-30-2009, 08:26 AM

Peter:

I love white T/A's without the trim rings.

73LeMans · 01-30-2009, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by transamfan1981

I wish I could find an N.O.S or O.E.M panel. I know of a person who is selling a pair of N.O.S. panels, but when he cut them off of his car he didn't do straight cuts and destroyed the curve around the rear window.

Just for the record so you don't get shafted in the future. N.O.S stands for New Old Stock, which by definition means they were never on a car. (otherwise they wouldnt be new, right?) What that guy had were used OEM quarters.

transamfan1981 · 01-30-2009, 06:29 PM

thanks pontiacstogo. On a scale of 1 to 10, what would you rate the difficulty of a quater skin. I'm trying to get as much info on this as I can because I'm doing the resto in my driveway.

Thanks 73lemans to .I didn't know NOS meant the part had never been put on a car. No wonder why people pay thousands for NOS parts!

pontiacstogo · 01-31-2009, 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by superdutybob

Peter:

I love white T/A's without the trim rings.

Thanks Bob. I'm ready for winter to be done so I can take that first spring drive.

pontiacstogo · 01-31-2009, 11:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by transamfan1981

thanks pontiacstogo. On a scale of 1 to 10, what would you rate the difficulty of a quater skin. I'm trying to get as much info on this as I can because I'm doing the resto in my driveway.

Not sure - maybe an 8?

You're going to need a good compressor and cutoff wheel to remove the outer skin. Drill or grind out the spot welds around the wheel lip (outer wheel house) and the bottom of the panel (trunk extension). Then use the cutoff wheel to cut off the outer skin as in the picture above. Then drill or grind out the spot welds around the outer wheelhouse and discard it. Your trunk extension may or may not be salvagable but I would replace it either way as it just makes the job easier.

You'll need to remove the rear seat and inner panels on the side you're doing as it's going to get hot in there when you weld the outer wheelhouse on. You may also have to patch the inner wheel house so be prepared to cut, shape and weld in some patches.

I'm a big fan of self-tapping 'zip' screws (sheetmetal screws). Use these along with small C clamps to line up and mount the outer wheelhouse and trunk extension, but don't weld them on yet. Trim and line up the outer skin to make sure you've got the outerwheel house and trunk extension in the right place. If you need to move things around just remove the screws and do it again until it's right. Once everything is lined up OK remove the sheetmetal screws one at a time and 'plug' weld the holes.

You'll need to use plenty of zinc weld through primer and seal everything up well before putting the outer skin on. Don't forget to use seam sealer in all of the seams.

If it's any consolation I had never done this sort of repair before. I did plenty of reading and solicited advice from friends before tearing into it - it helps to have some good tools on hand and a good welder. If you're unsure about the welding work, maybe try and bribe someone who knows what they're doing to do the final welding after you've got everything lined up and ready to go.

Hawk397 · 02-01-2009, 05:27 PM

Peter,
Are those the aftermarket lower skins you used?

I'd love to get those pictures from you before I start my project - do you have higher rez versions you'd be willing to share!!

Thanks,
Mark

transamfan1981 · 02-01-2009, 05:55 PM

Thanks. I need to look into buying some more tools if I decide to do this. Like you said in another post it would be better to find a full quater. But you would basically have to perform the same operation to put it on, right?

pontiacstogo · 02-01-2009, 07:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by transamfan1981

Thanks. I need to look into buying some more tools if I decide to do this. Like you said in another post it would be better to find a full quater. But you would basically have to perform the same operation to put it on, right?

Kind of.

With a full quarter, all you have to do is drill or grind out all of the spotwelds, fit the replacement up and weld it on. The aftermarket patch panel material is not as thick or as nice as original GM sheetmetal and it needs a ton of finish work. Also, you don't end up with a big seam all the way along your quarter panel (trust me, there isn't a season goes by where I don't look along that line looking for a shift or bubble).

The ideal solution would be to purchase a NOS quarter - fit it up and weld it on. Second best solution would be a used quarter, cut beyond the factory seams - that way you could drill the spotwelds and remove the panel yourself. Do the same with your rusty panel, zip screw the new one on and weld into the spot weld holes.

Third best solution is a patch panel. If 74 quarter panels weren't so hard to find, I would have gone with solution one or two.

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