[roger1]

Thanks guys!
Scarebird, thanks for that info. I did a little more reading on the issue and about how to cross them at a right angle.
I just went out to the shop and re-routed #5 and #7.
Btw, should it be a true 90 deg right angle or is just some angle good enough? Also I wonder if today's spark plug wire designs change the magnetic field in any way to reduce the chances of inductive crossfire.

[Ben M.]

Originally Posted by roger1

Thanks guys!
Btw, should it be a true 90 deg right angle or is just some angle good enough? Also I wonder if today's spark plug wire designs change the magnetic field in any way to reduce the chances of inductive crossfire.

Just get it close enough, it doesn't have to be 100%. The field decays exponentially with distance, so just moving it 1/2" or more is a considerable drop in the ability to induce. Modern spark plug wires supposedly have better shielding with a thicker dielectric, which also helps.

You can run them semi-close, just don't leave them sitting on top of each other. Quite a few people like to argue about this, but that's just my experience working with these cars plus high voltage for a living.

[roger1]

I got the transmission mounted and put the dip stick tube on it too:



When I put first put the yoke in the transmission, it wouldn't slide all the way in. It bottomed out on the inside and left about 1- 1/4" gap between the shaft seal and the yoke shoulder. I called Art and he said yes, he has those made up and they are long and have to be cut off. So I cut 1-1/4" off and now it will slide all the way in. This photo shows how much gap there will be when the u -joint is installed:



It's at 5/8". Less gap than with the stock Turbo 400 even though the 200-4R is 1/2" shorter transmission because the head of the yoke is larger. Another thing I didn't know is this yoke fits a 1350 u-joint so it requires using a conversion type u-joint. I had bought 2 new stock u-joints. I guess I should have asked Art before I did that. Stock u-joints are type 44S/3R so today I ordered a Spicer 5-3205X which is a 1350 - 44S/3R conversion.

I received some fuel fittings I had order so installed the fuel lines at the engine. I'm not a fan of the braided hose bling so I'm using Gates Green Shield fuel injection hose with Earls Vapor Guard AN fittings. They work perfectly together. I opted to use Oetiker ear clamps as I think they look better than screw type clamps. Supply is on the p/s and return on the d/s.



I used a screw clamp here. I didn't use a fitting since there was a bead on the end of the tube. Using an ear clamp here would mean having to get a cutting tool down there to remove the hose.



I got shipping notices today on the vinyl paint I ordered for headrests and for the RobbMc mini starter which has been on backorder for the last 3 weeks.

[Andretti]

I'd have to go back through this whole thread to recall if you're running HEI for spark but Scarebird offers wise advice even if you're not. Seeing that Corona effect on many GM's after shutting them off make you appreciate the amount energy there.

[roger1]

Originally Posted by Andretti

I'd have to go back through this whole thread to recall if you're running HEI for spark but Scarebird offers wise advice even if you're not. Seeing that Corona effect on many GM's after shutting them off make you appreciate the amount energy there.

It's the Edelbrock electronic distributor that came with my ProFlo 4 kit.

I sure wish this site would allow post editing for longer. I would even be more helpful if the owner of a build thread would be given permanent editing capability for it.
I messed up the last part of my last post. This was the photo of where I used a screw clamp:

[Scarebird]

I must have missed something here:

Do you have 2 lines leading to the fuel rail? One from the pump and a regulator on the rail then back to the tank?

[roger1]

Originally Posted by Scarebird

I must have missed something here:
Do you have 2 lines leading to the fuel rail? One from the pump and a regulator on the rail then back to the tank?

This is the post were I detail how I ran the fuel lines:
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6246239#post6246239



Yes, 2 lines. The line on the driver side is a reproduction pre-bent line I bought from Inline Tube. It fit very well. Stock, this would be the fuel supply line. I'm using it for the return.

I used NiCopp tubing and bent it myself and installed it on the passenger side routed as a mirror to the other one. This is the supply line so I installed an EFI fuel filter on the frame rail in the middle of the line. (I will use a Walbro in-tank fuel pump.)

The supply line connects to the passenger side fuel rail at the front where the pressure sensor is. The fuel rails are tied together on the back side and the 58 psi regulator is mounted on the front of the driver side fuel rail and the return line connects to that.

It's a non-adjustable regulator that is an Edelbrock part. When the engine was run on the dyno, it did run at 58 psi so it was right on the money.

[Scarebird]

I missed that - thanks.

[roger1]

I got the driveshaft painted with epoxy primer and installed:









I installed the Lokar throttle valve cable. I used a length of heat shrink tubing on it in the area where it is near the spark plug wires.



This Lokar throttle bracket is made specifically for the Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4 and is perfect. It has a provisions for the TV cable, throttle cable and a cruise control. I got the TV cable adjusted and it was pretty easy to do with this setup.



I got the RobbMc mini starter installed. I really like this starter. It was so easy to install because it is so small and so light. Very simple to rotate the solenoid anywhere you want it too. No shims were necessary. The lash is .016" and gear clearance when disengaged is 1/8".
All kinds of room vs a stock starter:

[will slow gto]

That starter does look nice! Looks like you can reach the oil pan bolts and the drain plug on the side of the block without removing it.

[Greg Reid]

I'm going to get myself one of those starters. I especially like the ability to rotate the solenoid out of the heat zone.
Work looks great as usual!

Sent from my moto g stylus (2021) using Tapatalk

[vertigto]

Well...I know what to get if my hi torque PowerMaster gives me problems.

[roger1]

Yesterday, I painted the 2 small covers that go on top of the rear side panels. I did this for a trial since it is easy to remove and start over if I had to. Already had to do that with the paint I bought from Ames that did not match.

The paint from Kolor Korrect matches just about perfect. I put on 2 coats of base and 2 coats of the Parchment metallic which is mostly a clear. I used my small Iwata LPH-101 paint gun for both.



Since I was totally happy how those came out, I went ahead and painted the headrests today. I wiped down the vinyl with denatured alcohol first and then applied a coat of Bulldog adhesion promoter. Kolor Korrect said this is the only brand that can and has to be used. Since the headrests were black, I sprayed on 3 coats of base. Looked fine after 2 but I put on the 3rd for insurance. Then the 2 coats of the metallic clear. I am very, very happy how they turned out:



In the shade:



And in the sun:



Unlike the originals, these headrests are totally covered with vinyl underneath. So, I'm not going to use the plastic bottom covers as they are not necessary.

The 2 pints of paint delivered were $280 and the Bulldog adhesion promoter was $30. Add in what the reproduction headrests cost it totals out to $460. Not cheap but I see no way around it unless a person considers covering. My interior guy advised against that.

[gokitty]

Just Dashes "restored" my headrests. When they were returned to me, they did not use the plastic bottom covers that were on the headrests when I shipped them to Just Dashes . I contacted Just Dashes about this . They had no idea where they were, why they were not used and did not offer to replace them. All of this to say that if you are not going to use your plastic bottom cover pieces, I will purchase them from you. Your color/pattern and gloss match is sensational!

[roger1]

My dash is with them right now being restored. They said they would return all the screws I left in them. He said specifically that everything I send will be returned.
So they lost your bottom covers. They should have offered to make good on them.
One of mine is shot from sun damage. The other might be usable with a repaint. Ames carries them for $14 each. Did you know that? Black or white.

Yes, they really did come out well. I can definitely recommend Kolor Korrect.

[roger1]

I just looked and both covers have sun damage on the edges of them. While checking them, I slipped them onto my new reproduction headrests. In doing this I found that the bars on these are about 1/4" closer together than the originals. I'm hoping that is not going to pose a problem fitting them into the seats. I'm a little concerned.
My seats are at the upholstery shop so I'll take the new headrests there on Monday and see what they say about that.

[gokitty]

Thanks for the heads up on the Ames bottom covers! I'll check them out. Meantime, I hope the bars on your reproduction headrest present no difficulties. Devil is in the details!

[will slow gto]

Looks great, parchment was the right box to check for a convertible!

[roger1]

I rolled the frame into my other workroom and got the body set down and bolted on. Before setting it down, I stretched wrapped all the underneath portions of the frame and suspension. I wrapped the driveshaft but not across the u-joints so I can still roll the car. I cut holes in the shrink wrap for the body mounts.









This is the repro firewall body mount bracket that I had to replace due to rust-out. As you might remember, I had to modify this bracket to get it to fit in the right place and it wasn't easy. Even though I measured and re-measured before welding it on, It was nice to see when I saw it line up perfectly and not need any shims.



I marked the body bracing before I removed it all just in case I could help someone out who might need them. It's probably a slim chance though since shipping alone would be more expensive than the cost of new steel.



So now it's on to completing the bodywork followed by the primer and paint process. I don't figure that's going to go quick. I'm going to try and make all the gaps as perfect as I can and I figure that's going to require some welding. Plus I foresee a lot of time alone to fit and finish out the front bumper.

I did go down to the interior shop today. We tried the headrests in the seats and it appears the bars being 1/4" closer together won't be a problem as it appears to have a little give to it. That was a relief.

[tininjun68]

As always, great work and attention to detail with documentation!!
You should be an instructor for auto restoration at your local tech school!