[455hota]

I worked on the trunk lock and tail panel today.

I am questioning the gap from the front face of the trunk lock cylinder to the hole in the tail panel.

From the pics above, with the key inserted in the cylinder, the circular edges of the key are very close to the tail panel. I am worried about paint being scratched.

Does this gap appear to be normal? Is this the same on your Firebirds?

I did use a thin gasket to seal the trunk lock assembly as per the assembly manual. I also used washers on the 4 tail panel mounts (from the outside) as per the assembly manual.

Even if I remove the washers, the tail panel is already up tight to the body immediately above the lock cylinder.

Can anyone confirm if I am being overly OCD (as my daughters tell me), or do I have something wrong in the installation?

[Transamric]

[QUOTE=455hota

I am questioning the gap from the front face of the trunk lock cylinder to the hole in the tail panel.

Does this gap appear to be normal? Is this the same on your Firebirds?

I did use a thin gasket to seal the trunk lock assembly as per the assembly manual. I also used washers on the 4 tail panel mounts (from the outside) as per the assembly manual.[/QUOTE]


I've seen quite a variance in the depth to the lock cylinder face too. I would space the lock cylinder further back to reduce the gap.

[Norwood]

Never had a problem with one but the gap should be zero

[lfdsteve]

I ended up cutting my trunk keys edges down so I didn't mar the pAint. Not sure why it went together that way on my 71 but gave up trying to correct it and cut the key. Will be waching with interest.
Steve

[455hota]

I think that will be my solution as well.. Cut down the key edges.

I have taken in all apart and looked at it very closely. With just the lock cylinder slid over the studs, and no gasket, the gap is still there. It is not a question of shimming, as that would make the gap wider.

I have an old lock cylinder and I removed the stainless cylinder cap. I pushed this through the hole in the sheet metal and the gap is still there, The flange on this cap bottoms out and does not allow the gap to get smaller.

The only way I can figure to eliminate the gap, would be to use a block and a hammer and physically move the metal surface out board to reduce the gap.
This would have been much easier when the car was still in primer, and not all finish painted.

Time to walk away and ponder options....

[cnc]

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=771091


This is a great idea from Scarebird ....wish he would have made a run I would have been interested....I did briefly talk with him but it was thought that there would not have been enough interest possibly IIRC

[Transamric]

Originally Posted by 455hota

I have taken in all apart and looked at it very closely. With just the lock cylinder slid over the studs, and no gasket, the gap is still there. It is not a question of shimming, as that would make the gap wider.
Time to walk away and ponder options....

Sorry about my "shoot from the hip" response there. Forgot the cylinder bolts on from the inside, not the backside. Maybe next time I'll get one right!!

[72projectbird]

My 71 is the exact same way. I messed with it for a little while, got nowhere, and left it just like how yours is.

I don't open the trunk much, so it doesn't bother me.

[455hota]

After sleeping on the problem, the solution for me was to file down the trunk key edges to give me a little more clearance. It worked out nicely,

I can only figure, I have a lot more paint thickness around the tail panel key hole (primer, base, clear), probably a lot more than the factory lacquer that was on the tail panel originally.

Anyway onto the next issue....

[Formulabruce]

I use a cheap MES remote ,( California) and my keys Never touch my doors or trunk. Its easy to just do the trunk with No mods to the car aside from a relay behind the glove box hooked to the trunk release switch.

[TTOP350]

Yup, I'd think a remote (glovebox) trunk release would be in order and only use the key for backup.

[dadsformula]

I cut my keys down as well, but I wonder if the original Keys had a longer
distance between the working end and the grip end. If that was extended
even an 1/8th of an inch or so, this is a non factor. I don't have an original
key to check, but it is possible. The thickness of the Fiberglass panel is the
constant on this, and could very well have required a longer Key.

[455hota]

I thought of that possibility also. But I do not have an original key.

Can someone post a pic of an original trunk key with measurements?

[Norwood]

Original key.

[Bentwheelbob]

Two pictures. Original old key and new key. In that order.

[455hota]

Thanks for the pics Norwood and Bob!

I can tell that both your cars have almost no gap from the back edge of the tail panel key hole to the front face of the lock cylinder. That is why your keys set out nicely away from the tail panel painted surface.

Mine has a gap of nearly 1/8", causing my key to "bury deeper into the hole on the tail panel.

The other idea I had, was to disassemble the whole area again and using a socket and a rubber hammer, try to tap the metal hole in the body outboard 1/8". Obviously this would have been easy when we were doing the body work, so now I am a bit nervous.

https://goo.gl/photos/y7Ah7sw9ELZSDEA16

You can see I would have a lot of disassembly to get back to the sheet metal area. I am not sure on pounding with the tail panel in place!!! Maybe shaved keys are ok!!!

[Bentwheelbob]

I would pull it apart and fix it, but I suffer from OCD.

Looks like Norwood's die cut lettering is crooked....

[johnta1]

Steve, is the fiberglass tail panel the original one or a replacement?

On my 73 TA I had to replace the panel, and the new one looked like that.
It had a big gap between the key lock and the panel.

[Norwood]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

I would pull it apart and fix it, but I suffer from OCD.

Looks like Norwood's die cut lettering is crooked....

I would fix it as well... Bob you made me go and look and its totaly an optical illusion. Mine are supposed to be diecut but I don't think yours should be.

[455hota]

When I got my project, I received three tail panels in total. They were all GM original pieces. This one happened to be the best of the three tail panels, and of course I sold the other two already!
Question, do you think the metal area around the lock hole, could be bumped outward 1/8" SAFELY with everything assembled as is? The tail panel is my concern. I could loosen the 4 nuts, and loosen the tail lights, so the panel has some wiggle room.

Any thoughts?