[John V.]

I know the prevailing wisdom is to simply send the booster out to be rebuilt by a number of reputable guys.

But I like to do stuff the hard way for the satisfaction of doing it myself.

Has anybody here opened up the booster?

Is there a trick to it? I can't seem to get it to budge. I understand the concept and can see how it is supposed to turn to separate the two halves. But it just isn't happening.

Help!

[takid455]

These's a section in the service manual detailing this. you use a special tool that mounts on the studs.

[John V.]

But if you don't have the special tool...

Or the Service Manual...

I ran an all-thread rod thru the rear bracket holes and tried to twist it, then beat on the rod, just bent up the rod.

Have sprayed a lot of WD-40 "Specialist" penetrant to try to free the rust.

I've whacked at the tabs hoping to break it loose, I think I may have moved it a fraction of an inch but not even sure of that.

Surely somebody here has separated one.

Does the master cylinder have to be removed?

What about the front bracket for the combination valve?

[johnta1]

Yes the m/c needs to be off.
Basically the booster needs to be off.

I sent you a PM.

[FunctionalShaker]

I've done a couple of them. I used a piece of 2 inch 1/4 flat stock about 4 feet long and drilled holes to match the master cylinder studs, put it in a vice, then slipped the tool on the studs and twisted it open using slow even pressure. It will give a little pop as there's a spring inside. You'd be surprised how clean they tend to stay. There is one bare metal dish that tends to get surface rust on it. Not much to restoring them, but they're more complex than you'd think inside. I had them out of the car, that way they can be completely disassembled. You could probably open it with a sturdy piece of wood as well.

[John V.]

Much thanks FS, I came to a similar conclusion last night based on what I saw in the Service Manual write-up John sent me.

Actually, an earlier service manual showed the use of a large specialty wrench that bolted to the back half bracket with the M.C. locked in the vise which is what I have been doing.

Same sort of deal as you described except you bolt the specialty wrench (Kent Moore J-9504) to the rear bracket. I just have to pick up a piece of flat bar as you described and drill the appropriate holes including one to clear the push rod extending out the back.

I'm not concerned about the complexity inside. I have sourced the rebuild parts and understand what is in there.

Just out of curiosity, did you bolt up your flat bar with holes in the center with 2 ft. of leverage to either side or did you take advantage of the full 4 ft. to one side?

The specialty wrench had the holes centered, I'm not quite sure how long it is overall but hopefully 4 ft. is plenty for the flat bar idea.

Thanks again to you and John for the assist.

[FunctionalShaker]

I drilled the holes at the end of the bar. Not much needs to be replaced inside, just cleaned and lubed