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#1
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If you only do 1 more thing to the whole car
- please correct that engine color , as you mention. Today's 93 octane is equivalent to yesterdays 100 octane (1966) But needs a lead substitute additive. Rally 1 wheels for the win ! |
#2
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I am just curious about the gas comment today’s gas is yesterday’s 100 octane. A lot of people say today’s gas is junk. Every once in a while I put Sunoco race gas in. I wish I can do that all the time as it has lead, and it smells better. LOL Sunoco 94 is coming back around here in NJ, I have to see how much that is. Thanks, Marc.
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#3
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Older ratings were research. Modern is R+M/2.
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The Following User Says Thank You to 242177P For This Useful Post: | ||
#4
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All the GTO's with "rated 10.75" compression ratio specified 100 octane minimum ..
By the old octane rating method. Today's 93 is equivalent to that. Google will probably have a comparison factored between now and then. Alcohol mixtures of today aren't doing us any favors though |
#5
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Engine color confirmed
Just looked at photos when i bought it .. it was the correct color
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#6
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Quote:
Too late now, but 20 years is not a long time to sit to need a rebuild unless stored improperly. Mine sat for 41 years and fired right up. But is smokes, so stuck rings or needs new ones. Mine has 30,000 more miles than yours, though, engine/trans never out, original clutch, etc.
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Jeff |
#7
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Sweet car, but if you do try to sell it.... Don't mention the "Big Block".
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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to gtospieg For This Useful Post: | ||
#8
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All the Pontiac V8's from 326-455 were the same physical size - is what gtospieg is referencing.
They didn't do small/big like most other manufacturers. A 326 looks just like a 455 in terms of exterior size. The freshly painted engine will get point deductions in a survivor class. The previous pictures of before - would have scored the highest possible points regarding the patina on the engine paint. It was incredibly far above average for a 1966 with 80k miles. |
#9
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Valve cover and hubcap pics / new very old rebuild kit
Attached are pics of the original valve covers
They have some light pitting should I reuse or just keep and buy new ones? The block has been Correctly painted even though I now know it was a mistake to do so … also attached original hub caps also showing normal were and tear should I use these ?? If so I do not have the rims that work for these caps still need part number or site please .. also I have some very cool old AC delco Vintage carb rebuilt kits I will keep with the car . And a repo build sheet thanks for the advice . |
#10
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Quote:
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Current Pontiacs - 1973 Formula SD455 - #'s auto orig paint 1972 Trans Am - 4 speed orig paint 1974 Formula 400 - Ram Air automatic 1966 2+2 convertible - 421 4bbl automatic 1967 Grand Prix - 4 speed orig paint 1967 GTO - 4 speed orig paint 35k orig miles |
The Following User Says Thank You to 71GP76TA For This Useful Post: | ||
#11
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__________________
'63 LeMans Convertible '63 Grand Prix '65 GTO - original, unrestored, Dad was original owner, 5000 original mile Royal Pontiac factory racer '74 Chevelle - original owner, 9.85 @ 136 mph besthttp://www.superchevy.com/features/s...hevy-chevelle/ My Pontiac Story: http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=560524 "Intro from an old Assembly Plant Guy":http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=342926 |
#12
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Awesome car. Do you know when the hood tach was added?
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#13
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Some years back I had a '69 LeSabre convert with a 350. On regular fuel I think it would literally have dieseled with the switch off until it ran out of gas or I choked the carb out. I let it run like that just to see once.and had to choke it out....It was funny because it blew great smoke rings from both tailpipes...lol
It ran great on premium unleaded though, at least here in Georgia on our blend. By the way, I have an unmodified '66 WT 389 that I plan to use as-is also, so I'm expecting the same challenges.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#14
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*not for use in California
lol 93 works fine in NC Octane points matter . 91 is not 93 93 new = 98+ old 91 new = 95 old European nations still use the old octane method if anyone needs to do a google compare |
#15
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I've also noticed that in humid areas like NC, these engines seem to do better than in arid areas like mine. Also, when out of state this past summer, my '67 sure liked the pure gas I was able to get without ethanol. No issues, even at high elevations of over 8000 feet.
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Jeff |
#16
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Leave it, no paint.
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#17
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X2. Looks good as is
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Ed 1968 GTO (Thanks Mom) 2006 Silverado 2007 Cadillac SRX 2015 Chevy Express 2024 Cadillac LYRIQ |
#18
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You "might" could have came out for around 10k if you did all the labor yourself and sourced all the parts yourself .Except for the machine shop work on the engine.
If you want to sell at a profit at this point - I think you would need to install Rally One rims , professional cleaning and detail of the interior , and dry-ice blast the underside and engine bay thoroughly. Don't do the dry ice blast unless/until you are ready to sell. We have seen some time capsules go through this process and return some pretty incredible purchase prices. Pressure wash and black out is not beneficial to survivor status. The wheels on the car are doing it no favors. None of the wheel covers in 66 have the right look or amount of class - for a classy GTO. A place like Level One restorations in Colorado -for example- who specialize in preservation rejuvenations could make the whole car sparkle and put it at its highest caliber top to bottom. And create a national caliber survivor award winner. |
#19
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Sure hope you kept all the old parts: belt, alternator, water pump, etc.!!!!!!!! almost anything that was replaced with new!!!
"Bill"! |
The Following User Says Thank You to bill ryder For This Useful Post: | ||
#20
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Honestly I wouldn’t have jumped straight into an engine rebuild.
Replacing the timing chain set and water pump would have been as deep as I would have gone, along with rebuilding the carburetors and fuel pump. Fuel tanks can be cleaned and if necessary replaced. I would have put some miles on that 389 before considering a rebuild, those cylinders with lower compression readings may have sealed up satisfactorily once things loosened up and had a chance to see some clean oil and some heat cycles. If they were drastically low I can see rebuilding, but again exactly what numbers were you seeing and was the engine given a chance to warm up and get a true realistic reading or not? Replacing all the rubber brake hoses, master and wheel cylinders, shoes and springs isn’t expensive. However if you’re not doing any labor yourself the cost of repairs becomes extremely expensive. These cars can be enjoyed relatively inexpensively if you’re willing or able to do the majority of the labor yourself, otherwise they can quickly become a money pit. If you were looking to profit then doing a nice detail on the car with the least amount of money invested in repairs is the way. For myself I’d be happy with finding such a nice car and just enjoy it.
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1964 Tempest Coupe LS3/4L70E/3.42 1964 Le Mans Convertible 421 HO/TH350/2.56 2002 WS6 Convertible LS1/4L60E/3.23 |
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