Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 12-19-2020, 10:20 AM
400 4spd.'s Avatar
400 4spd. 400 4spd. is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Jan 1970
Location: Eastern N.C.
Posts: 4,833
Default '66 big car disc brake conversion

Who here has converted from drums to power front discs on a '66? Did you use later year GM parts, or is there a conversion on the market that I can't seem to find? The car is a Bonneville.

  #2  
Old 12-19-2020, 10:39 AM
AZ64GP AZ64GP is offline
Senior Chief
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 431
Default

One of the members in this forum, Scarebird, probably has a bracket set up and a parts list to convert your car to front discs. There is also Master Power Brakes (MPP) who I used several years ago to put front disc brakes on my '64 Grand Prix.

  #3  
Old 12-19-2020, 11:19 AM
Stuart's Avatar
Stuart Stuart is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 7,938
Default

It's possible to use the disk brakes from a 1968-1970 full size Pontiac, but those parts weren't very common even when new and are hard to find these days. The Scarebird kit will work with the original 14" wheels, the Master Power kit requires 15" wheels.
https://scarebird.com/index.php?rout...product_id=251
https://www.mpbrakes.com/front-brake...1966-front.asp

  #4  
Old 12-26-2020, 11:41 PM
Rapdron's Avatar
Rapdron Rapdron is offline
Chief Ponti-yacker
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Monmouth Juncton, NJ
Posts: 740
Post 66 disc brake conversion

Steve
I found a few sets of 69-70 full size disc brake setups years ago in local salvage yards, using one now on my 66 Catalina.
The steering knuckles are a bolt in system, and I used the brake calipers as cores for rebuilt ones.
An hour glass beading the knuckles and brackets and sprayed with a rattle can, they look new.
The rotors on both sets were usable, well above minimum thickness for machining, but I doubt they could be turned again.
I figure that with the 2-3,000 miles I drive it every year, they should last me a lifetime.
I used the original 1970 power booster, but bought a new master cylinder and flex hoses.
I had to switch over to 15" wheels for clearance on the brake calipers.
I've heard good things about the Scarebird conversion, but these were local and inexpensive.
Ron

__________________
Another Red Light Nightmare
1966 Martinique Bronze 2+2 428 tri-power auto, black top & bucket seat interior, pass recliner, ATC, Cruise, AM FM, Reverb, Wood wheel, tilt, ps, pb, pw
1966 Catalina, Barrier blue with a white vinyl top, tilt, AC, ps, pb, bucket seats with console 68 428 4 bolt, 4 speed M20 and a 66 tri-power project.

Semper Fi
  #5  
Old 12-27-2020, 08:37 PM
stevep's Avatar
stevep stevep is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Mendon Mass
Posts: 6,595
Default

Scarebird is the best bang for the buck.

__________________
The difference between inlaws and outlaws? Outlaws are wanted
  #6  
Old 01-21-2021, 11:44 PM
ben3843100 ben3843100 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Champaign, IL
Posts: 55
Default

Target Car: 1966 Pontiac Catalina / 2+2 with OE manual standard 4-wheel drum. Currently running 17" x 7" Cragar Eliminator 500 aluminum wheels. Converting to 4-wheel power disk brakes. Here is my parts list to this point.

Brake Booster: P/N BM17005-5 (Extra-long studs to fit full size Catalina properly)
Details: 1966 Pontiac Catalina Power Brake Conversion Kit - 9" Dual Diaphragm Booster w/OE Manual Brakes
The conversion kit includes the following:
9 inch Dual Diaphragm Brake Booster
1-1/8 inch Bore Quad Port Master Cylinder
Firewall Mounting Brackets and Hardware ( I ended up not using this for reasons I can go into in another post)
Push rod with Pedal Attachment
3 feet of 11/32 inch Vacuum Hose
Intake Manifold Fitting
Price: $399 / kit
Link: https://www.mpbrakes.com/booster-mas...42408BB08300D3

Disc / Disc or Drum / Drum Combination Valve: P/N VL3359K (not for front disk / rear drum; for disk / disk only)
Details: The kit includes the following items:
Combination Valve for Disc/Disc Applications,
Mounting Bracket with Black Electroplate Finish
Pressure Differential Switch Pigtail
Bleeding Tool
Valve to Bracket Mounting Hardware
Assorted Fittings for Installation
Price: $119 / kit
Link: https://www.mpbrakes.com/pc_product_...C08E2DAD45E44B

Front & Rear Stainless Steel 4-wheel Drum to Disk Conversion Brake Lines from Inline Tube
Notes: I would probably buy bulk stainless brake line and fittings and make these myself next time. I had to modify the rear axle line and custom make the brake master cylinder lines.
Details: These lines are all inverted double flare and match up to the new stainless flex hoses listed below just fine. No adaptors were required.
SMFG70628A 1966 Catalina/Bonneville/Grand Prix Dual Master Conversion Lines For Power Brakes 1
SMFG70628B 1966 Catalina/Bonneville/Grand Prix Dual Master Conversion Lines For Power Brakes 1
SMFG73995 1966 Pontiac Catalina/Grand Prix 1/4" Front to Rear Brake Lines, Stainless 1
SMFG73999A 1966 Pontiac Bonneville/Catalina/Grand Prix 3/16" Left Front Brake Line, Stainless 1
SMFG73999B 1966 Pontiac Bonneville/Catalina/Grand Prix 3/16" Right Front Brake Line, Stainless 1
SMFG74003A 1965-66 Pontiac Bonneville/Catalina/GP 3/16" Rear Axle Line (1 of 2), Stainless 1
SMFG74003B 1965-66 Pontiac Bonneville/Catalina/GP 3/16" Rear Axle Line (2 of 2), Stainless 1
Price: $199.00 (Also available in OE steel for $179.00)
Link: https://www.inlinetube.com - Must call in to order; not listed on website.

Distribution Block, Brake Fluid, 1966 Bonn/Cat/GP, Dual M/C or Power Disc Brakes
Note: I used this because it let me use the Inline Tube disk conversion lines which terminate at the OE brake distribution block mounted to the front driver's side frame rail, but seperate the front and rear brakes into two seperate circuits. If I had custom-made lines I probably would not have used this.
Note: Using this makes the brakes lines look and run more like the factory OE manual brake lines. The two lines enter the top of the distribution block from the master cylinder, a single large line runs to the back, and two smaller lines lead to the left and right front calipers.
Price: $32.99 / each
Link: https://www.opgi.com/brake-systems/p...s-gbc9833.html


Front Disk Conversion Parts

Front Disk Brake Conversion Kit for 1965-66 Full size Pontiac 14" or bigger wheels: Product Code: ZNL R30 6566 Kit
Price: $389.00 / kit
Link: https://scarebird.com/index.php?rout...product_id=251

Front Braided Stainless Brake Flex Hoses
Details: Universal Braided SS Brake Hose, 16" Long with 7/16" Banjo (Includes hardware) Made in USA. 3/8-24 female inlet for inverted flare with 7/16" Banjo Includes: 2 hoses, 2 banjo bolts(7/16-20), 4 copper washers, 2 clips
Price: $37.00/ pair
Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Front Disk Brake Rotors
Note: Unlike the rear rotors I purchased, these were not zinc PLATED, but were painted with zinc paint. I was disappointed when the coating came off with brake cleaner. I plan to pull them back off and repaint them to prevent surface rust.
Details: ATL Autosports Performance Brake Rotors. Fits 2006 Dodge Sprinter 3500 [W/285mm Front & Rear Discs ] ATL53028-35DS. Drilled, slotted, zinc-plated (NOT)
Price: $122.38 / pair
Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Front Disk Brake Calipers (use calipers to fit 1972 GTO per Scarebird documentation; these Wilwoods are designed to fit stock GTOs)
Note: These bolted up to the b-body adaptors from Scarebird just fine, but I ran into two small clearance issues. The calipers are dual piston and the puston bodies are slightly wider than the single-piston calipers the Scarebird brackets are designed for. I had to file the inside hole of the Scarebird brackets so the caliper could move in and out freely.
Note: The second area of interference was inside the caliper. The Dodge Sprinter rotors rubbed on the inside of the calipers slightly when rotating the rotors with the calipers bolted onto the Scarebird brackets. I used a hand file to file a slight depression in side each brake caliper to prevent the edges of the rotor from contacting the inside of the calipers during rotation.
Note: Be sure to follow the Wilwood instruction for bedding the beds to the rotors before you judge brake performance. My brakes felt much better after bedding the pads.
Details: Wilwood Dual-SS Piston Forged Aluminum Brake Calipers, 1964-72 A-Body, D-52, black powder coat (also available in red)
Price: $384.99 / kit (includes mounting bolts, BP-10 brake pads)
Link: https://www.opgi.com/brake-systems/d...d-ch29044.html

Front Disk Brake Pads
Details: Wilwood BP-10 high-friction pads for D-52 dual-piston calipers above
Price: $66.36 (this is approximate replacement cost; these are INCLUDED with Wilwood D-52 brake caliper kit)
Link: https://www.wilwood.com/brakepads/br...emno=150-8939k


Rear Disk Conversion Parts

Rear Disk Brake Conversion Kit for 1949-70 Pontiac, Oldsmobile: Product Code OPR
Details: Includes brackets, hardware, brake shoes, etc.
Price: $295.99 / kit
Link: https://scarebird.com/index.php?rout...&product_id=80

Rear Braided Stainless Brake Flex Hoses (hard lines on rear axle to metric Chevy Citation rear disk calipers with 10mm Banjo)
Universal Braided SS Brake Hose, 15" Long with 3/8-24 female inlet for inverted flare to 10mm Banjo (Includes washers, banjo bolts, hardware) Made in USA by The Stop Shop
Price: $37.00 / pair
Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Rear Braided Stainless Brake Flex Hose (central hardline from rear frame to center of rear axle with distribution block for axle hard lines)
Universal Rear Braided SS Brake Hose, 14" Long with mounting block. 7/16-24 female inlet for inverted flare.
Attached mounting block with 2 - 3/8-24 ports for rear axle brake lines
Price: $18.75 / each
Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Rear Disk Brake Rotors
Details: Performance Drilled Slotted & Coated Disc Brake Rotor Pair for GM (1994-1996 Impala / Caprice Rears) by AM Autoparts. 5 Lug, Diameter: 11.61 in. (295mm), drilled, slotted, zinc-plated, integrated drum parking brake
Note: These were zinc plated and seem to be nice rotors
Price: $59.79 / pair
Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Rear Disk Brake Calipers (1980-1985 Chevy Citation / Citation II Brake Calipers FRONT)
Details: NAPA Total Eclipse Remanufactured Front Right / Left 2" single-piston OE cast-iron Brake Caliper with Hardware - Semi-Loaded - Black-Coating - metric M10 banjo
REMAN/BRAKE CALIPER: Part #: CAL SE4682 Qty: 1 $31.24 /each + $11.11 core /each
REMAN/BRAKE CALIPER: Part #: CAL SE4681 Qty: 1 $31.24 /each + $11.11 core /each
Price: $84.70 / pair
Link: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SEBSE4682 / https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SEBSE4681

Rear Disk Brake Pads (1980-1985 Chevy Citation / Citation II 2.8L 173cid V6 FRONT)
Note: There seems to be a large variation of pad thicknesses. If you have issues with the rear calpers with pads fitting correctly, you may need to sand the pads down a bit. I believe this may be related to the location of the rear axle flange relative to the rearend housing flange. I believe certain people run into rubbing problems because their rear axle bearings are pressed on either too far in or out on the axle which changes where the rear disk ends up inside the rear calipers. I had to sand my outside flange a little bit to prevent rubbing, but only on the drivers side.
Note: I ordered a set of AC Delco pads and they were MUCH thicker than the CENTRIC pads I ended up using.
Details: CENTRIC 50002890 (Premium) PQ PRO Front
Price: $22.79 / set
Link: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...66&jsn=1&jsn=1

Rear Axle Studs
Note: I replaced all of my rear axle studs to account for additional disk brake thickness (probably less then 1/8' thicker) and the aluminum wheels (and their thicker hubs) I'm using. I removed and installed them with a ball joint press.
Details: Dorman 610-080 Wheel Stud 3.6 x 2.4 x 2.2 inches
Price: $17.08 / set of 10
Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Brake & Wheel Hub : Brake Backing Plate Gasket (1965-1970 Catalina / Full-Size)
Note: Seals between axle flange and Scarebird disk brake adaptor plates.
Details: FEL-PRO 13831 {#760023, 9778249} Backing Plate Gasket; (4-bolt holes); 2-5/8 inch I.D.
Price: $1.59 each (need 4?)
Link: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...119756&jsn=260

Parking Brake: Stainless steel replacement rear parking brake cable for 1965-1966 Catalina/Grand Prix
Park Brake Cable, Rear, 1965-66 Catalina/Grand Prix
Price: $62.09 (need 2)
Link: https://www.opgi.com/brake-systems/e...x-gc03882.html


Rear Disk Brake Install Notes
You can access the bolts and remove rear drum brakes with backing plate as an assembly, but I had to disassemble one of the shoes to remove the parking brake cable and remove two bolts on the backside of the drum backing plate that held the parking brake cable to the backing plate. Disconnect brake line from wheel cylinder or cut original brake line near fitting. (Keep line for comparison to new lines)
Slide out axles being careful not to damage the axle seals. (I replaced both of mine)
Press out old axle studs and press in new longer studs (I used a large ball joint press)
Pry open metal tabs that hold original brake lines to rear axle and bend old brake line out of the way.
Trial fit new Inline Tube stainless steel conversion line. There is enough length in them to bend the end that would normally be routed to the rear wheel cylinders into a broad twisted S shape that will reach the new metric caliper hose bracket. If you go with custom lines, you should add a couple inches of length to the factory line length which would allow you to use both of the original tabs on the axle. I believe in-line Tube will make custom lines for you as well.
<INSERT PICTURE>
Clean the original special axle flange bolts and nuts and scrape any gasket material off of the rear axle flange.
Install the special bolts in the axle flange and install a new axle flange seal.
Install new Scarebird disk brake bracket with caliper mount at rear of car. The brackets are marked so you know which side each is to be installed on.
Install new axle flange seal over bolts on the outside of the Scarebird bracket.
Slide the axle into the rearend housing and into the differential
Note: may want to measure the position of the rear axle bearing relative to the axle flange in case you have issues with the rear rotors rubbing on the brake pads.
Slide axle retaining ring up against Scarebird bracket (with new seal) and install original nuts. Torque to ?
Install brake rotor. If brake rotor holes will not slide easily over lugs, use round hand file to slightly enlarge holes in each rotor.
Install caliper with bleeder pointing up and torque mounting bolts to spec
Install brake hoses from bracket to hardlines on axle
For the parking brake mods, I purchased new stainless L & R rear parking brake cables and proceeded to carefully cut off the flanges that would normally bolt to the OE drum brake backing plate.
I then cut off the crimped on brass ends of two old rear drum brake hoses, cut a slit in them so they could be slid over the new parking brake cables, drilled them out to fit over the outer parking brake cable sheath , and used them as a flange to terminate the new cables at and attach them to the new Scarebird backup plates using OE clips. No other mods were required to the parking brake cables and they have been working great.

Front Disk Brake Install Notes
I removed everything from the front suspension and painted it. I also replaced all bushings with polyurenthane, both upper and lower balljoints, and all springs during the disk conversion.
Mount the new aluminum Scarebird hub with new bearings as specified in Scarebird instructions.
Install Scarebird brackets per instructions and torque bolts to spec
If you're using the GTO dual-piston calipers as mention in the parts list, file the Scarebird bracket to fit the wider dual-piston caliper body to ensure it moves in and out freely when mounted.
Trial fit new brake rotors and slightly enlarge brake rotor wheel stud holes if required

Power Brake Conversion Notes
Haven't gathered my thoughts on this yet. I ended up mounting the aftermarket booster directly to the firewall without the MasterPower brakes-supplied adaptor for a more factory look and then modified two factory brake pedals to create one long OE-style manual (narrow) brake pedal. I can supply more information on the why's and how's of this in a different post.

The Following User Says Thank You to ben3843100 For This Useful Post:
  #7  
Old 12-31-2020, 10:38 AM
ben3843100 ben3843100 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Champaign, IL
Posts: 55
Default

Here is a pic of the Scarebird conversion I performed on my ‘66 2+2.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  #8  
Old 12-31-2020, 05:11 PM
ken66 ken66 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 105
Default

Thanks for the pictures. Is that an aftermarket upper control arm you have there? Sorry if this has already been discussed.

  #9  
Old 12-31-2020, 06:31 PM
ben3843100 ben3843100 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Champaign, IL
Posts: 55
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ken66 View Post
Thanks for the pictures. Is that an aftermarket upper control arm you have there? Sorry if this has already been discussed.

Yes, the upper control arms are from RAM Air Restoration I believe. They are suspension corrected and have a taller than stock ball joint on top. The lower arms are stock with polyurethane bushings, 1 1/8” aftermarket sway bar with poly bushings, and Lares fast-ratio manual steering gear. KYB shocks all around.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  #10  
Old 01-23-2021, 01:49 PM
Bills Auto Works's Avatar
Bills Auto Works Bills Auto Works is offline
Senior Chief
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Wakeman, Ohio
Posts: 376
Default

That is some amazing information Ben, thank you for taking the time to post it all! I just a few minutes ago told a newbie that this place has great folks & great information...This thread & you are examples of both!

I am just about to buy the MP. Brakes kit for my 66 Cat Conv. I am not to concerned about the vacuum issue as I already know I will need the pump! LOL

I am getting the complete front disk kit with a chrome booster & painted master.

God Bless
Bill
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...closed.614419/

__________________
Your QUALITY Pontiac Transporter

Bills' Auto Works Est 1983 & still going strong!

1955 Chevy Altered W.B. Gasser
1955 Nash Ambassador Custom Lemans
1957 Chieftan 2dr HT
1964 Grand Prix
1966 Catalina Conv. 421
1966 Ambassador DPL 2dr HT
1966 Ambassador Cust. 2 DR HT
1967 Marlin
1967 Toronado
1973 Nova Full Chassis Car
1992 Jag XJS Conv
1992 Jag XJS Coupe
2007 Cad XLR-V Supercharged Roadster
  #11  
Old 01-25-2021, 02:17 PM
ben3843100 ben3843100 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Champaign, IL
Posts: 55
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bills Auto Works View Post
That is some amazing information Ben, thank you for taking the time to post it all! I just a few minutes ago told a newbie that this place has great folks & great information...This thread & you are examples of both!

I am just about to buy the MP. Brakes kit for my 66 Cat Conv. I am not to concerned about the vacuum issue as I already know I will need the pump! LOL

I am getting the complete front disk kit with a chrome booster & painted master.

God Bless
Bill
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...closed.614419/
Sounds great and glad I could help! I had to perform quite a bit of searching to figure out all of the parts I needed for my car. There was no one-stop shop for the information. Curious, is your car currently an OE power brake-equipped car? Just wondering if you're converting to PB or have OE power brakes. In case you're not aware, there are three pedal assembles for at least the '66 Pontiac full-size cars (possibly '65 as well), and what your car has currently does affect what you should order and how you want the engine compartment to look.

If you're converting to power brakes and currently have a manual brake pedal set, it would look more "factory" and give you more room in the engine compartment if you ordered a MasterPower kit for an OE power brake car and then changed your pedal assembly to a factory power brake assembly. This would eliminate the pedal ratio adaptor bracket that would sit between the MasterPower booster and the firewall to account for your shorter OE manual brake pedal.

If you're aware of this already, great. If not, let me know and I can provide pictures to show what I'm referring to.

- Ben H.

  #12  
Old 12-31-2020, 06:18 PM
Bill Hanlon's Avatar
Bill Hanlon Bill Hanlon is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Fredericksburg, TX
Posts: 2,353
Default

But the bleeder on the rear caliper picture is facing down. Aren't they supposed to be at the top of the caliper?

__________________
My Pontiac is a '57 GMC with its original 347" Pontiac V8 and dual-range Hydra-Matic.
  #13  
Old 12-31-2020, 06:42 PM
ben3843100 ben3843100 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Champaign, IL
Posts: 55
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Hanlon View Post
But the bleeder on the rear caliper picture is facing down. Aren't they supposed to be at the top of the caliper?

Yes, this was an early pic as I was dry-fitting everything. I switched the calipers during final assembly so the bleeders are up.

Regarding Scarebird rear disks, I will say that I have heard a couple people mention the rotors not being centered in the rear caliper and having to shave one of the pads to prevent rubbing. I ran into this as well, but only on one side. I believe the issue is that where the rotor lands inside the caliper has a lot to do with where the axle bearing ends up when it is pressed onto the axle. I believe the people that have had issues have axle bearing(s) that aren’t pressed onto the axle quite as far as others. This leads to an axle flange that sits out slightly farther and hence the disk brake rotor and wheel sit farther out as well. In my case I could not mount the caliper with pads into place due to the outer pad being against the outer rotor surface. Next time I have the car in the air I’m going to pull the rear axles and test out my hypothesis.

I also have noticed that different brands of pads seem to have different thicknesses of friction surface. The first set I received which was a high-quality off brand, was fine on one side and tight on the other. The second set of ACDelco were much thicker and wouldn’t work on either side.

Fun times. :-)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  #14  
Old 12-31-2020, 06:46 PM
Scarebird's Avatar
Scarebird Scarebird is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: ABQ, USA
Posts: 5,024
Default

Ben - thanks for the feedback - we did NOT know this concerning the axle bearing.

We are however aware of the pad thickness issue - some calipers loaded won't fit on the rotor period, which make you wonder how they sell them.

If you have more pix we would like to see/use them. Did the Wilwood's clear the stock 14" wheels?

  #15  
Old 01-01-2021, 12:40 PM
ben3843100 ben3843100 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Champaign, IL
Posts: 55
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarebird View Post
Ben - thanks for the feedback - we did NOT know this concerning the axle bearing.

We are however aware of the pad thickness issue - some calipers loaded won't fit on the rotor period, which make you wonder how they sell them.

If you have more pix we would like to see/use them. Did the Wilwood's clear the stock 14" wheels?

Yes, I couldn’t believe how much thicker the AC Delco pads were that I received. I still have the pads so I’ll try to dig them out and take a comparison pic. Definitely not consistent. I did not try the OE 14” steel wheels with the GTO-replacement Wilwood front calipers since I already had 17” on the car. I sold the original steel wheels so I don’t have a spare to try them now either unfortunately. I do have many detailed pics from the front / rear conversion and all of the part numbers I used for the braided stainless brake lines if you want additional info for your customers. Everything went together pretty well, but I would definitely make my own brake lines next time rather than buying the kit from Inline Tube for this conversion. I had to modify a few so I could have done it cheaper myself in the end.

As far as getting the front dual piston Wilwood calipers to fit is concerned, they bolted right up, but there is a small clearance issue due to the wider dual caliper body. I didn’t realize this until I tried to mount the calipers over the rotors and couldn’t get the calipers to move outward far enough. I had to clearance your mounting bracket slightly to allow the caliper body to slide freely in the bracket. See pics below. I can send you more detailed pics directly if you like and will have the car on jack stands shortly since they just salted the roads here in Illinois. I put on a couple thousand miles this summer and they brakes feel really good and are well-balanced after bedding in the pads according to the instructions provided with the Wilwood calipers. I performed an OE manual to power brakes conversion to this car at the same time I did the disk conversion so that was an interesting research exercise as well.











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  #16  
Old 01-01-2021, 06:41 PM
Scarebird's Avatar
Scarebird Scarebird is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: ABQ, USA
Posts: 5,024
Default

Ben - excellent work; we will mod the next batch to clear this - even though Wilwood is a competitor having the ability to use their "upgrade" calipers would not hurt.

I am concerned about the size of the booster; if that is a dual 7" it may not work so hot with a low vacuum motor.

  #17  
Old 01-01-2021, 11:20 PM
ben3843100 ben3843100 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Champaign, IL
Posts: 55
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarebird View Post
Ben - excellent work; we will mod the next batch to clear this - even though Wilwood is a competitor having the ability to use their "upgrade" calipers would not hurt.

I am concerned about the size of the booster; if that is a dual 7" it may not work so hot with a low vacuum motor.

One other modification I had to make that I didn’t take a picture of is to the inside of the Wilwood Calipers. When mounted, the outside edges of the brake rotor would slightly contact the inside of the caliper when rotating it. There was plenty of meat inside the caliper so I used a small file to create about 1/16 inch of clearance for the rotor edges.


The power brake / disk master cylinder conversion kit I used has the following specs from the MP site:

1966 Pontiac Catalina Power Brake Conversion Kit - 9" Dual Diaphragm Booster w/OE Manual Brakes

9 inch Dual Diaphragm Brake Booster
1 inch or 1-1/8 inch Bore Master Cylinder
Powdercoated Black Booster with Black Master Cylinder
For Use on Cars with Originally Equipped with Manual Brakes

The kit worked ok, but I one thing I didn’t immediately realize is that when buying the kit for a ‘66 Catalina with OE manual brakes, the back of the booster has a large bracket on it to change the manual pedal ratio to a less aggressive power ratio. Since a factory booster in my car looks a lot cleaner when mounted directly to the firewall, I removed the bracket and remounted the crevice to the booster. I then had to source a power brake pedal for a manual shift car which is pretty impossible for a full size, so I made my own by welding a manual lower section (small foot pedal since there are three) with the longer upper section from a power brake pedal assembly from an automatic transmission car I bought of eBay for $20.ot was a bunch of extra work, but it looks a lot nicer imo.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  #18  
Old 01-02-2021, 02:27 AM
Scarebird's Avatar
Scarebird Scarebird is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: ABQ, USA
Posts: 5,024
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ben3843100 View Post
One other modification I had to make that I didn’t take a picture of is to the inside of the Wilwood Calipers. When mounted, the outside edges of the brake rotor would slightly contact the inside of the caliper when rotating it. There was plenty of meat inside the caliper so I used a small file to create about 1/16 inch of clearance for the rotor edges.
That is intereseting to note - our spec'd rotor is slightly bigger than 11" diameter so Wilwood has no excuse for this error: their caliper should have been made to clear the 11-7/8" 1LE rotor.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ben3843100 View Post
The power brake / disk master cylinder conversion kit I used has the following specs from the MP site:

1966 Pontiac Catalina Power Brake Conversion Kit - 9" Dual Diaphragm Booster w/OE Manual Brakes...
The GM dual 9" is a damn good unit - my guess is MP simply copied the internals which is of course a good thing!

  #19  
Old 01-06-2021, 09:13 PM
63gpman's Avatar
63gpman 63gpman is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Rochester, MN
Posts: 2,000
Default

Very nice work Ben! Not sure I saw it, but what hub and rotor did you use on the front? Any part numbers for your setup would be great to have as I plan to do similar to my 66.
Rotors, calipers and so on.

Thanks!

__________________
Brad Hansen

65 Cat Ventura, 66 Cat Vert, 63 GP
  #20  
Old 01-07-2021, 01:22 AM
ben3843100 ben3843100 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Champaign, IL
Posts: 55
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 63gpman View Post
Very nice work Ben! Not sure I saw it, but what hub and rotor did you use on the front? Any part numbers for your setup would be great to have as I plan to do similar to my 66.
Rotors, calipers and so on.

Thanks!

I have a write up I put together for another group with part numbers for everything I can send you / post here. I’m away from home for a few days so i’ll have to check my PC when I get home. I believe the front rotors are originally made to fit a 2006 era Dodge Sprinter 3500 van with OE 16” wheels. The info I’ll provide says specifically.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:37 AM.

 

About Us

The PY Online Forums is the largest online gathering of Pontiac enthusiasts anywhere in the world. Founded in 1991, it was also the first online forum for people to gather and talk about their Pontiacs. Since then, it has become the mecca of Pontiac technical data and knowledge that no other place can surpass.

 




Copyright © 2017