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  #241  
Old 12-05-2015, 09:43 PM
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Yes sir, your hood is amazingly flat. The hood on my Gramma's car is really bowed in the center, as was the original hood on the black 72 Formula that BentWheelBob has now. I tried placing the black car's original hood on some saw horses over the winter with 75 lbs of steel weights on the outside center of both sides. After three months it didn't really do much of anything to relieve the bow. That was why I eventually went with that NOS hood I got from TheBoss, for the black car.
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  #242  
Old 12-06-2015, 08:30 AM
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Put enough weight on it and it will bend

  #243  
Old 12-06-2015, 10:43 AM
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I had 225lbs for six months and it helped but only 50% of what was needed. Yep you guessed it Im trying to get that other 50% this winter. I always try to keep the car as original as possible or at least with the parts it had when I received it.

  #244  
Old 12-06-2015, 12:17 PM
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Steve Hamilton mentioned to me awhile ago that removing the hood springs will eliminate the tension when the hood is closed and get rid of the bow in the hood. He would then just use a prop to hold the hood up. Never tried it. Thoughts?

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  #245  
Old 12-06-2015, 12:37 PM
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That's a smile or smerk...

Heard to remove rivets on band and add weights when reattaching the bars...that's a bit of work!

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  #246  
Old 12-06-2015, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Judge273 View Post
That's a smile or smerk...

Heard to remove rivets on band and add weights when reattaching the bars...that's a bit of work!
I would agree with this. I don't think just removing the springs will bring it back, but once you have it back I think that it may be a good idea to use the lightest spring possible

  #247  
Old 12-06-2015, 01:53 PM
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I used over 300. lbs. on mine for 6+ months. These hoods are heavy and strong in the middle and can take the weight pretty well. To be safer than using saw horses for support, I'd put 2 long 4 X 4's on the ground under the front and rear of the hood frame for support and then stack sand/concrete bags on top of each other at the middle near the sides until you have 150 lbs. on each side. I did this before my hood was re-painted so I'm not sure how flexing the hood like this would work with nice paint.
I also think the way you set the angle of the hinge mount plate makes a difference in keeping it straight. By that I'm talking about the up and down adjustment in the slots for the hinge to fender bolts. My theory is too much upward angle on the front of the hinge plate translates into pressure on the hood in the middle when it's at rest.

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  #248  
Old 12-06-2015, 04:42 PM
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I never store the Black Car with the hood latched. As soon as I park it in the garage, the hood is opened to release the tension. This also helps me remember to hook up the battery tender.

  #249  
Old 12-06-2015, 04:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RicksGTO View Post
I used over 300. lbs. on mine for 6+ months. These hoods are heavy and strong in the middle and can take the weight pretty well. To be safer than using saw horses for support, I'd put 2 long 4 X 4's on the ground under the front and rear of the hood frame for support and then stack sand/concrete bags on top of each other at the middle near the sides until you have 150 lbs. on each side. I did this before my hood was re-painted so I'm not sure how flexing the hood like this would work with nice paint.
I also think the way you set the angle of the hinge mount plate makes a difference in keeping it straight. By that I'm talking about the up and down adjustment in the slots for the hinge to fender bolts. My theory is too much upward angle on the front of the hinge plate translates into pressure on the hood in the middle when it's at rest.
How well did it work?

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1948 Lincoln Continental Cabriolet V12. Restored.
1951 Willys Jeepster 6 cyl.
1968 Olds Cutlass W31 Ram Rod. Nocturne Blue, 4spd, stripper
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  #250  
Old 12-06-2015, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
the hood is opened to release the tension.
I don't really understand this?

Why would there be 'tension' on the hood?
(from the hood hinges?)

I would think with the hood latched there would be no tension on the hood.
The rubber bumper things on the side would help support the hood.
The hood hinge springs should have no tension/pressure on the hood in the closed position.
The hood release spring thing shouldn't be a factor when latched because the latch itself is holding it down.

The hood hinge springs only have pressure between unlatched to full open.
(then the weight of the hood past the hinge is trying to close from gravity)


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  #251  
Old 12-06-2015, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PureSD View Post
How well did it work?
It was about 3/16" up in the middle and after the weight it straightened out all the way flat.
I agree with John that the hinge shouldn't be pushing up on the hood when closed (if adjusted right) but on mine at least, when I adjusted the front hinge slot as high as it would go, the hinge was acting like a stop that forced the hood to bend slightly in order to latch. My opinion is that there is more adjustment in the angle of the hinge available than is good for the fiberglass hood.

Here is a good shot after the adjustment, the passenger side on mine was a little worse than the drivers side before working on it.


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  #252  
Old 12-06-2015, 07:52 PM
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Looks great. I will do this to mine over this winter.

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1974 Trans Am SD455 4spd. 29k mile unrestored. Buc Red/white
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1951 Willys Jeepster 6 cyl.
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1970 Challenger RT Convert . 383 4spd. Plum Crazy/white
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1978 Datsun 280Z Black Pearl edition
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  #253  
Old 12-06-2015, 07:55 PM
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If there is no tension on these hoods, then they should all sag in the middle thanks to the combined effects of gravity and support on the four corners. I haven't seen one that way yet.

  #254  
Old 12-06-2015, 08:53 PM
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Correct and I open my hood upon parking it too. Its been a habit since playing with these fiberglass equipped f bodies.
Rick, your car looks great and maybe I'll bring mine down for a visit and rip some cruise nights....If I go the long way Im thinking I could pick up a few friends. Whos up for a 2016 cross country trip for a 4-5 day weekend run??? We should make an annual trip that changes up yearly. Maybe this needs its own thread, thoughts??

  #255  
Old 12-06-2015, 09:42 PM
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Quote:
If there is no tension on these hoods, then they should all sag in the middle thanks to the combined effects of gravity and support on the four corners.
When closed, the hood should be supported by the rubber rests on the fender? Plus the front corner stops.
(about half way between front and hinge?)


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  #256  
Old 12-06-2015, 10:00 PM
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Here's a pic:
(for a 73 but other years same)



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  #257  
Old 12-06-2015, 10:03 PM
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And rear of hood bumpers:



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  #258  
Old 12-06-2015, 10:45 PM
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Brew, sounds good! I could get up for the Nationals or MCACN's, but I'd have a cooler full of Texas beverages for anyone that came this way too!

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  #259  
Old 12-06-2015, 10:53 PM
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I would estimate that at least 35% to 50% of Formula hoods are bowed up in the middle. I will continue to unlatch my hood when it is parked for an extended period. I may be wasting my time, but I bet the hood won't warp and my battery will always be charged. We've probably hijacked DJ's thread enough....


  #260  
Old 12-07-2015, 01:39 PM
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Bob,

I do the same thing and leave the hood unlatched on the Formula for the very same reason. I think it helps since I feel tension in the hood springs and need to push the hood down and against that tension, even when almost touching the latch spring loop.

Dennis

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