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  #61  
Old 07-25-2012, 09:24 PM
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Talking about the crankcase vent filter housing--the plastic piece that holds the filter element, thats inside the ram air pan. Is this white or black originally?

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Old 07-27-2012, 08:58 PM
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Thank you for the PMs, this forum is awesome!

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  #63  
Old 07-28-2012, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtojon View Post
I have noted that the original production exhaust tips had no part numbers on them, though the over the counter GM replacements did -just an FYI.
Jon, you may be correct, I have no way to dispute because I didn't purchase the car new. This had some rear end damage in the past, its possible they were replaced then. I believe my rear bumper and decklid were replaced, and the tailpanel was pounded out and had bondo in it(directly in the center).

Interesting though the NOS ones I've seen were all chrome, with part numbers, even where they attached to the tailpipe, and these weren't. They were bare where the tailpipe attaches.

I can guarantee one thing though--They aren't repro tips, and they look absolutely beautiful now!

Thanks!

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  #64  
Old 07-28-2012, 01:18 PM
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Talking about the crankcase vent filter housing--the plastic piece that holds the filter element, thats inside the ram air pan. Is this white or black originally?
All I ever remember seeing were white, but I don't have a more definite answer. I got my car in 79 and I believe it had a white one on it then, but it could have been changed.

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  #65  
Old 07-28-2012, 04:20 PM
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Thank you for the replies Bet Winner. Appreciate the help.

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  #66  
Old 09-08-2012, 08:58 PM
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Just got the correct Black AC Thermac air cleaner sensor and the correct white crankcase breather housing. Body should be started in November, can hardly wait for this beast to be finished. Can't wait to put that stroker IV through its paces!

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  #67  
Old 09-09-2013, 01:52 PM
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Default Well....

A year came and went fairly quick... Still have the bodywork to do, hopefully soon. I was still busy in the meantime while I've been waiting to get the body done. I built the original RA III motor. Went with a Crower solid cam and Crower cool face lifters, original crank, eagle H beam rods, and forded speed pro (TRW) pistons. Original #12 heads have hardened seats, one piece stainless Celdyne valves, bronze guides, Crower springs, and PRW Stainless roller rockers.

I sent off the original transmission and had it restored by Jody's Transmissions.

I sent off the original differential and had it restored by JD Race & restoration.

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Last edited by Jason67; 02-27-2016 at 10:50 PM.
  #68  
Old 09-09-2013, 01:58 PM
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Default Tranny and Differential

Pics of the original transmission and rear end.

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Last edited by Jason67; 02-27-2016 at 10:50 PM.
  #69  
Old 09-09-2013, 04:22 PM
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Engine is looking pretty nice!

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  #70  
Old 09-12-2013, 05:36 AM
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Thank you!

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  #71  
Old 09-12-2013, 10:01 PM
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The engine does look nice. You apparently have the correct oil pressure sender.

What did you put on the exhaust manifolds?

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  #72  
Old 09-13-2013, 11:35 AM
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Thank you! It's the born with sender, proper date code and part #. Probably should've done the top black after gold cad, because I think just the bottom side was cad plated originally, maybe I'll fix that. The one on my RA IV motor is mint and its black on the top, gold on the bottom, unlike the later model NOS all gold units.

On the manifolds, I used the eastwood dressing. I was thinking of getting repro manifolds and replacing my originals because they are pitted, but the repros aren't the same as the originals, are they? Different number of bolt holes and flange shapes where they bolt to the head, so I kept the originals. That eastwood stuff needs to be applied several times a year on a motor that runs, I use it on quite a few of my cars.

Everything on this motor except: internals, fuel pump, water pump, tune up parts & oil filter, valve covers, and of course carb lifting plate, is born with. Even the bolts/fasteners. The water pump is date code correct & rebuilt with cast impeller. The original carb is on the IV motor.

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  #73  
Old 09-13-2013, 10:44 PM
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Thank you! It's the born with sender, proper date code and part #.

On the manifolds, I used the eastwood dressing. I was thinking of getting repro manifolds and replacing my originals because they are pitted, but the repros aren't the same as the originals, are they? Different number of bolt holes and flange shapes where they bolt to the head, so I kept the originals.

Everything on this motor except: internals, fuel pump, water pump, tune up parts & oil filter, valve covers, and of course carb lifting plate, is born with. Even the bolts/fasteners. The water pump is date code correct & rebuilt with cast impeller. The original carb is on the IV motor.
The repo exhaust manifolds probably have no date codes, but I'm unsure about the other differences. I would use the originals if presentable, and they look like they probably are.

Having almost all original parts is a big plus.

I have the stainless steel studs and brass nuts on the pipe end of my exhaust manifolds--looks like you do too. I will eventually change them to the correct bolts, but they are nice--easy to get off.

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Last edited by Bet Winner; 09-13-2013 at 10:50 PM.
  #74  
Old 09-14-2013, 10:04 AM
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I wouldn't think the studs would detract much from your car since I'm guessing your exhaust is also not original, I'd stick with the studs. It is easier to swap out though when its assembled, but you would probably have to loosen and re-seal the right side flange (3 bolt) to remove the one stud and re-install a bolt under the pipe bend.

I actually thought about using the original style bolts instead of studs on the exhaust flange on my IV motor, but since my entire exhaust (except for the tips) is a repro, and its just so much easier to assemble under the car with studs, I went with stainless studs and brass nuts.

I just think its cool having the complete #s drivetrain restored and ready to run, sitting by a car with a fire-breathing IV motor and drivetrain that I will actually drive. If I ever decide to sell or just change my mind and want #'s, just swap them out

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  #75  
Old 09-14-2013, 10:10 AM
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I wouldn't think the studs would detract much from your car since I'm guessing your exhaust is also not original, I'd stick with the studs.
I did have the original exhaust on it and had a stainless system custom bent as close to original as possible in 1984 before any repo's were out before the POCI convention in GA. I plan to replace it w/a repo exhaust and the correct bolts.

It is nice to see a freshly restored engine.

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  #76  
Old 09-14-2013, 10:17 AM
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I did a stainless one in '90 for my 67, man that sucked to get aligned, and the clamps wouldn't crimp the metal, probably just too thick.

Both the inline and gardner systems are very nice, I have both of them. Make sure you get the clamp and hanger kit both offer, they go along way vs cleaning and plating the originals.

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  #77  
Old 09-15-2013, 09:59 AM
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Original shifter on original tranny.

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Last edited by Jason67; 02-27-2016 at 10:50 PM.
  #78  
Old 09-15-2013, 10:02 AM
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Breather and thermac corrected.

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Last edited by Jason67; 02-27-2016 at 10:50 PM.
  #79  
Old 09-15-2013, 10:22 AM
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More pics of the original RA III. On the exhaust pre-heater, I debated on painting it black, had found remnants of black paint on the underside, but it seems the norm is silver. Has the 0097 choke stove.

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Last edited by Jason67; 02-27-2016 at 10:50 PM.
  #80  
Old 11-28-2013, 09:33 AM
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Default Finally...

Got confirmation from the body man that he is ready for the Judge! We'll be starting the body around mid December, Awesome news I can't wait!

Happy Thanksgiving!

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