[HWYSTR455]

I see it now, missed that. Carry on...

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[Sirrotica]

The point is that the engineering has already been done, all someone needs to do is use parts that have been matched already. It isn't hard to buy all the parts from a wrecking yard, and replace them onto another vehicle, it is afterall GM parts, going onto a GM car, made by Saginaw, a GM subsidy. How many GM light trucks gave up their 4L80E parts for a classic muscle car? It didn't come on that vehicle, but it surely can be adapted to work on one.

You can end up with the same mess by buying all Wilwood parts, and mismatching them.

If you need an how to article for directions, here it is:

https://bangshift.com/general-news/t...-car-or-truck/

It's not like it has't been done hundreds of times, for decades, with success. Having hung around many wrecking yards for many years, and making conversions work with used parts from a wrecking yard on race cars. Before there was the internet, and aftermarket suppliers at your fingertips. It's not that hard to do, using common sense.

That's the definition of hot rodding, not getting on the net, and BUYING what you need, then bitching that the aftermarket vendor sucks because after you bought all his parts, and you're not getting the results you wanted.

It's hydraulics, and physics, sometimes you have to figure it out. If you want someone else to figure it out for you, then you pay them for figuring it out for you. It's not impossible.

[grivera]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Just to add, you should be able to increase your vacuum signal at idle with more timing advance. If you go to full manifold vacuum and limit it, it will help a lot.

If that doesn't give you what you want, you can upgrade to a dual diaphragm 9' booster, if you don't mind it not looking OE.

Manual is a very good option if the above all doesn't give you what you want.

My personal opinion, hydroboost has its place, but not on a muscle car. The driver experience kills it for me. Not to mention added complexity, troubleshooting, weight, and appearance.

The order of above suggestions creeps up on the 'problem' resolution and makes sense to approach it in that order. To me, anyway.

I have and do run some pretty 'radical' cams on the street compared to most, have about 11-13", and a dual diaphragm booster works for me.



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I assume you have the tall aluminum fab’d valve covers- if so how is the clearance at the booster?

[turbo69bird]

Originally Posted by 65madgoat

Honestly I would recommend going MANUAL brakes with a Wilwood set up. Easier, simpler, cleaner. AND WORKS! Need more bite? Then change pads. You'd be surprised how good a properly manual setup is.

Absolutely agree.
You don’t see road race cars running power brakes in classes like GT1 , go manual.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by grivera

I assume you have the tall aluminum fab’d valve covers- if so how is the clearance at the booster?

Yes, and have the new Ames engine mounts, which raise the engine by @ 1". The clearance from cover to booster in the closest area is about 2".

I have fuel rails too, but just need to kind of turn the cover towards the intake during removal and it comes off with no problems.

EDIT: Added a pic of the clearance with the Anchor engine mounts too, but you may have to zoom in.
.

[grivera]

This is great Mike, thanks! Any issues removing valve cover?