[165th]

[QUOTE=njsteve;5503040]I took all the original springs and soaked them in some detergent to get the adbestos dust off them and also scrubbed the original brake shoes as well. I then reinstalled everything today and bled the brakes.

One interesting thing to note about the assembly line installed shoes is how the bonded front shoe is grooved with a 1/2" slot down the center of the lining. The steel portion of the shoe appears to have a green zinc chromate finish on it. (it is kind of hard to tell from the photo since I used a flash when taking the photos).


And with the drums back on. Each drum had two copper Tinnerman clips holding the drum onto the studs. The passenger side drum also had a "GY" sticker on it.






I'll add to some info on original details on the drums. In addition to the tinnerman washers and paper decal on the passenger side, the drums were also partially sprayed black, generally just in the area where they could be seen through the Rally II's, presumably to prevent oxidation showing through while on the showroom floor.

Steve, on yours it looks like they sprayed the entire drum including the axle.

[Held for Ransom]

Originally Posted by njsteve

Wow you have good eyes! I can barely see that stamp. But it looks like right-side-up 125 and a 4th digit I can't read. And who knows if I am even reading the G73 correctly as a casting date?

Here's info from one of my '74s...
http://www.forums.maxperformanceinc....d.php?t=700455

[njsteve]

Lenora Stein, the wife of Rick, the original owner sent me a link to some of Rick's past accomplishents in 1965 with his racing boats. Check out this page of him reminiscing about some of his record breaking racing watercraft back in the day - including the L/88 powered rig.

http://www.nationalpowerboat.com/1965-alima-run.htm

[njsteve]

Time to start gently cleaning the car up for the Vintage Certification next November. Up on some truck jackstands so I can get some room to wipe things down on the underside.



I took out the driveshaft to properly clean it up. Here's the before photo. All I am doing is carefully cleaning the grease and dirt off the flanges and then maybe a soak in the Evaporust to see if it cleans the surface rust off the shaft.






Here is something interesting: Two different style flanges and two different head markings on the bolts.



Here's the soaking tub. A section of plastic gutter lined with heavy poly sheet to hold the liquid around the driveshaft:

[RamAir]

Vintage Certification is looking for originality, not surface cleanliness

[njsteve]

Roger that. The evaporust was too old anyway and didn't end up doing much of anything to the original finish. :-)

[Bentwheelbob]

I want to hear more about the vintage electronics you're hoarding and why......I'll jokingly submit that this stash may qualify for a tax deductible contribution to the Smithsonian.

Sorry, couldn't help myself.

[njsteve]

It was the results of a failed expeditionary attempt at cleaning the basement several years ago. At least it got to within six feet of the stairs.

And I got all my old NOS 1st Gen Viper parts in one place now. (where the computer relics formerly were).

Anyone need some old 5" floppy drive IBMs?

[njsteve]

I rigged up a better method of soaking the driveshaft without damaging the original paint stripes in the center. These stripes are very fragile and definitely not an oil-based paint. I think they are latex based as they are very sensitive to water. I pulled the soaking driveshaft out of the plastic gutter-based soaking rig as soon as I saw that it was affecting the stripes. This is what I came up with: A 4" wide PVC pipe with one end capped off, tied to my garage banister. The driveshaft fits perfectly inside with 1/4" to spare. I filled it with evaporust a little at a time and would lower the driveshaft down into the tube to see where the water line was. I settled on 1" below the stripes and let it soak for several hours on one end. Every hour or so I'd pull it out and wipe the rust residue off the surface. Once I was happy with one end, I flipped ends, readjusted the liquid level and did it again. It took very little evaporust to do the process - less than one gallon, as the driveshaft takes up most of the space in the tube.

[njsteve]

Here's the result after I soaked it with Boeshield wax protectant to keep it from surface rusting: (Ignore the Jack Russell dog hair - that stuff gets everywhere!)

Before, when it was in the car. (I don't know what makes up the darker areas on either side of the stripes - but it is definitely some type of finish on there)



and freshly removed:






The solution did not affect the oil-based blue and yellow paint marks on the yoke and front u-joint:



You can even see the original welding seam where the rolled tubing was welded together. The black paint mark appears to be in line wth the two tack welded weights. Maybe it was a position marking for the balancing process?

[njsteve]

Here's the u-jount straps after wiping the grease off and a quick soak in the evaporust. (Yeah I mixed up the bolts, but got them corrected after the photo was taken). Not only are there two bolt styles but also two strap styles: notice how one strap is actually longer than the other, even though the mounting holes are in the same spots?

Before:




After:

[The Boss]

That stuff is amazing!

[charles bledsoe]

WOW that is an amazing difference!!! Looks like I'm off to Lowes to purchase some PVC pipe. Where did you purchase the Boeshield Wax?
Thanks.

[njsteve]

Yes it is. Prior to dipping, I did not touch the surfaces with anything more abrasive than soapy water and an old nylon bristle brush for removing the heavy grease buildup, so the surfaces are exactly the same as when the parts were made. It's like automotive archeology!

[njsteve]

I think I got the Boeshield from a boating supply warehouse via Amazon. It is used mainly in industrial and marine situations to preserve freshly machined parts from rusting. This is the stuff:

http://boeshield.com/why-boeshield/

As for the Evaporust, I got it via Advance Auto parts. Usually the stores only carry a single gallon jug in stock so I ordered 5 gallons online and used one of their 40% off coupons and got free shipping since it was over $75. Saved around $50 with the discount and free shipping.

[njsteve]

The cleaning continues. I have been carefully wiping down the underside of the car with some rags and a little diesel fuel. The diesel method seems to work wonders on the original exhaust system. It cleans the surface rust right up and then slowly evaporates leaving a slightly less rusty looking exhaust system.

I found some interesting items on the rear differential after wiping the grease off. It looks like the differental was half-heartedly blacked out on random surfaces of the tubes and the center section before installation at the assembly line.

Here is the factory GYC stamp code (3.08 posi) on the partially black painted axle tube. There is also a "191" stamp which could be the date of assembly (191st day = July 10, 1973) which matches with the late July build date of the car.



and here is something I haven't seen before: a yellow ink stamp of the same "191" on the upper webbing of the center section.



An orange "G" on the top and bottom of the center section:





Some green paint marks on the upper portion of the axle tube, partially covered by the black paint:

[njsteve]

And the underside view of the axle tubes, one side with black paint and the other, not so much. (and the shinier-looking exhaust after I wiped off the surface rust.)

[charles bledsoe]

Steve, looks great!!! What do you wipe down your rubber hoses with. I have been using the purple degreaser/cleaner stuff on everything, but on my hoses it takes off the writting with the grease. Should I start with soapy water and slowly work up to diesel fuel, or is the diesel just used on the exhaust?
Thanks.

[njsteve]

I haven't really done anything to the hoses other than soapy water. The diesel was for the greasy metal stuff and the floorboards. I'd use a small rag soaked in it and then wrung out. I'd quickly wipe the damp rag over the area and then immediately follow with a clean, dry rag.

[charles bledsoe]

Thanks Steve!!
Chuck