[jonmachota78]

The jet extensions only come into play during launch when the fuel in the rear bowl gets slammed againsts the bowl and away from the metering block. Theres something else amiss if its dying during the burnout. Don't forget the notched float to go with the jet extensions

[johnta1]

Car stalled 4 times including twice when I was about to do a burnout. I was attributing it to low idle setting but may be the lack of jet extensions.

That right there is not good?

Something is wrong.
Try another carb?

What's the fuel system components?

[6D9]

The ET is not the issue right now but the trap speed. The 110 trap shows the power is down from were it should be for that combo. You never responded about the check of WOT so still curious on that issue.

[ta man]

Car stalling after a burnout can be a high rear float if you come out of the box quick and stop or slow down quickly.Also it could be a fuel supply issue.Its just the matter of working the bugs out!I should post one of my first runs..you will see you aren't that far off.

Few more questions was the cam degreed?Double check your total mechanical timing.Confirm TDC.Confirm adequate fuel pressure at WOT.

[71 T/A]

Cam degreed and double checked at 110 with a barely used chain.
Carb seems to be an issue but car has new Aeromotive tank with in-tank fuel pump and 1/2 inch lines. Car doesn't feel like it's starving for fuel at all. Fuel pressure a steady 7 lbs.

[KEN CROCIE]

Minimum E.T. at 110 mph is 11.85 with a perfect launch and traction. I generally add .2 sec. to that # with a street car because nobody/nothing is perfect. Your 12.38 is not that far off from the theoretical minimum. Work on your launch technique and sort out the carb and the car will approach it's true potential. There is a definite relationship between MPH and E.T. I use the old H&H "Pocket Dyno" book , which has proven to be very accurate over the years.
Install a FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE. You don't know anything about static and dynamic pressures until you do.
Your HP is directly related to your MPH. By utilizing some of the procedures described above, you may wel get more MPH , but not necessarily an improvement in E.T.

[71 T/A]

I have a fuel pressure gauge. It reads a consistent 7 at idle.

[tpssonic]

Originally Posted by 71 T/A

I have a fuel pressure gauge. It reads a consistent 7 at idle.

What is the fuel pressure down the entire length of the track?

[71 T/A]

Originally Posted by tpssonic

What is the fuel pressure down the entire length of the track?

Don't know. Gauge mounted by carb in fuel line.

[Skip Fix]

Originally Posted by tpssonic

What is the fuel pressure down the entire length of the track?

That is where the fuel supply issue will show up, not at idle. I had issues start even with just adding a camshaft to my low compression stock 400 in the 78. Really bad when in the 12s.

[Pontiac Derek]

I see a few things, one is you are 4000lbs,
2. A 3500 stall would have been a bit better
3. The stock T2 Plenum is "ok" but there is much more in it via port work.
4. Your 60 ft needs to be in the 1.60's, I think your car is 1 second slow so you will need to do tuning at the track!
Oh and bump the timing to 32*.

[Cliff R]

The slow 60' (with traction) and 110mph trap speed shows that you are WAY down on power for the combination of parts.

I'd start with a 1" spacer and 3" head pipes/mufflers, 30 degrees timing is about right.

Also lower shift points to 5000rpm's and work up to 5500rpms from there. You'd be surprised how much you can slow down a car by running way past the effective power range of the engine......Cliff

[TCSGTO]

Did it stall as soon as you gave it the gas on the burnout? Volleys come with small accel pump shooters especially if you have a big motor with a single plane. Don't be afraid to go up.
That wouldn't explain the low MPH though. You could have been entering valve float at your shift points. You don't need to go that high.

[Pontiac Derek]

You are making 475-485hp, I know that combo can make
575-610hp and 590-610tq,
Can you gI've me detailed list of everything done to the engine please, thank you!

[71 T/A]

Originally Posted by Pontiac Derek

You are making 475-485hp, I know that combo can make
575-610hp and 590-610tq,
Can you gI've me detailed list of everything done to the engine please, thank you!

Here's my combination of parts.
Hey Derek, please PM your address so I can ship my Torker 2 to you for your porting work.

69 GTO with a/c, 4000 lbs
461 with KRE 308 heads ported by SD
10.5 compression
236/245 Old Faithful HR cam
Torker 2, runners worked by SD
950 HP Carb
Crower 1.65 Roller Rockers
3200 Stall Continental converter
MSD Pro billet with 6al2 box
Total Advance at 30, initial at 15
3.55 12 bolt
Doug's headers into 3 inch pipes then 2.5" Goerlich Xlerator mufflers and 2.5" tailpipes
MT Drag Radials, 275-60-15

[Cliff R]

Porting the intake is NOT what the problem is. You have a fundamental issue someplace that needs to be corrected.

Somewhere in the tuning you're leaving around 100hp on the table. Could be a combination of a few things, but for sure look at the carb tuning, install a 1" spacer that is very well blended into the plenum areas, and 3" head pipes going into free flowing 3" mufflers, and make sure there is an "X" or an "H" pipe in there someplace.

We've ran into a few engine combo's on the dyno that did very poorly with that intake until a spacer was added to it to get the carb throttle plates up out of the plenum area.

Not trying to take work away from anyone here, but I've set up engines with unported T-II intakes that put the vehicle deep into the 10's and made nearly the power of the larger Victory intake, but they REQUIRED a spacer to get there.

I have a very similar engine in my car, same cam, a little less head flow and a tad more compression, and it EASILY pushes runs low 7's at 95-96mph in the 1/8th mile and well under the roll bar rule on 1/4 mile tracks in the 118-121mph range.

I also short shift for most runs at 5000rpm's, and even pushing shift points clear up to 5800rpm's it only improves ET about .03-.04 seconds, so for sure no need to grind up the engine here to get where you want to be.......IMHO......Cliff

[Formulajones]

If you got that thing on a dyno it would answer a lot of questions that we are all guessing at, and maybe even tell you things we haven't mentioned yet. If it were mine, I'd get my ducks in a row with spacers, carb parts, etc... and spend a day on the dyno tinkering to find the combination that works. You'll find what the engine likes as far as timing and carb jetting, air cleaners etc.. Then go have some fun at the track dialing in the rest of the car.

[Michael G]

Before you make any major changes, you need to get those 60' times in check. Anything outside of the 1.6's is unacceptable for your combo. Things like porting the manifold, increasing exhaust tailpipe size, changing shift points will lower your overall et but won't help with the 60's. The x pipe if not already installed can be done later and most always improves the short time.
Start with the carb and timing. The HP 950 and 1000 have worked very well for me. If not already done, jet extensions and blocking rear power valve are a must. 82-92 jetting, 35R and 37F squirters have worked best for me. I also installed a 50cc pump in the front to help eliminate an off the line stumble.
The 3200 stall converter and 3.55 gear is more then enough to achieve great results. Verify true 3200 stall and make sure trans is up to getting the job done.

[TCSGTO]

[QUOTE=Michael G;5656503]Before you make any major changes, you need to get those 60' times in check. Anything outside of the 1.6's is unacceptable for your combo. Things like porting the manifold, increasing exhaust tailpipe size, changing shift points will lower your overall et but won't help with the 60's. The x pipe if not already installed can be done later and most always improves the short time.
Start with the carb and timing. The HP 950 and 1000 have worked very well for me. If not already done, jet extensions and blocking rear power valve are a must. 82-92 jetting, 35R and 37F squirters have worked best for me. I also installed a 50cc pump in the front to help eliminate an off the line stumble.
The 3200 stall converter and 3.55 gear is more then enough to achieve great results. Verify true 3200 stall and make sure trans is up to getting the job done.[/

Exactly. don't through any more money at it until you get it running properly. The car isn't launching nearly as hard as it is capable of.

[ta man]

Just because it has been mentioned already by myself and others....confirm WOT fuel pressure.

This is one of my timeslips from my old 80 Trans Am..with my current engine combo..You aren't that far off...I still run the same heads,cam,carb,headers,intake,exhaust,rear gear is now a 308 was a 342 here.First upgrade was fuel system the following year..the mph went to the 116's.Compare with a current slip...this is what you can look forward to!