[Derekm803]

Yeah. I'm thinking about borrowing the big t handle drill from work..
That Lucas oil stabilizer is good stuff. I won't run without in the summer. My break in instructions called for 10W30 non detergent for breaking in but I couldn't find it locally. The engine builder told me I was fine with SEA30 ND.
Plus, I have a flat tappet cam and have to have zinc additives in it. If I ran just oil w/o additives, that cam would pay for it. Or, so I've been told.

[mgarblik]

To put your mind at ease, look at the data plate on your drill. I doubt very much if it is more than 1/2-2/3 horsepower. So even "working the heck out of your drill," it's taking less than 1 HP to do the work. Nothing to worry about.

[78w72]

Originally Posted by Derekm803

Yeah. I'm thinking about borrowing the big t handle drill from work..
That Lucas oil stabilizer is good stuff. I won't run without in the summer. My break in instructions called for 10W30 non detergent for breaking in but I couldn't find it locally. The engine builder told me I was fine with SEA30 ND.
Plus, I have a flat tappet cam and have to have zinc additives in it. If I ran just oil w/o additives, that cam would pay for it. Or, so I've been told.

Lucas does make a zddp/zinc additive for break in purposes or increasing zddp levels, its not the same as the normal stabilizer additive.

FYI on the zinc additives... ALL oils have zinc additives in them and most modern off the shelf oils have enough to protect stock to mild flat tappet cams, especially already broken in ones. I dont know what cam you are using but unless its a "big" cam with heavy valve spring pressures you dont need to add unknown or excessive amounts of zinc for normal use after break in. Modern oils have ~900-1000ppm of zddp along with other anti wear additives to protect the cam/lifters... the zddp thing is very misunderstood, hard to believe people are still thinking modern oils dont have zinc additives or you need crazy amounts for mild broken in cams... the best is when a guy with a stock mid 70s V8 thinks he needs to use VR1 race oil because thats what he read on the internet somwhere.

During break in you do want to add a bottle of cam break in additive like what comp or crane offers or the lucas zddp additive or a specialty break in oil, but after that most stock to mild street cams dont need a specialty oil or race oils like VR1.

[Schurkey]

You are WAY over-thinking this.

"Priming" involves removing air from the oiling system--oil pump, filter, the larger oil galleries. It is NOT intended to spray oil over the fenders from the rocker arms.

IF (big IF) you're going to "prime" the oiling system Turn the pump long enough to show oil pressure on the gauge. Takes MAYBE thirty seconds. DONE. Put your crap away, drop the distributor in, and fire that mother up. You are doing NO good by priming, turning the crank, priming, turning the crank, burning out the drill motor, getting a bigger drill, priming, turning the crank--all the time wondering why there's no oil at the rocker arms, so "prime some more". Some folks want to make a career out of a simple, FAST, easy procedure that in the end is not all that necessary.

GM builds millions of engines, and they DON'T prime the oiling system on virtually all of them. "Priming" the oiling system is much more a matter of obsession and religion, and much less a matter of doing anything that's actually useful.

[TedRamAirII]

Originally Posted by steve25

Ted I think your showing that your quite misguided with that comment and I want to ask for evidence in support of this .

I get information from people who have a education in their field, and is independent. People that recommend a oil additive just because their engine didnt scatter, when they added Grandpa's Majik Monkie Piss, doesnt cut it for me. Lake Speed Jr, takes the additives and has them analyzed at a oil lab. The reports dont lie. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CAGT5inQScE

[Derekm803]

I wouldn't even have thought about it if the engine builder didn't put it in their break in instructions in all caps. I've changed several oil pumps on cars and never thought or heard about it. I know those are already running n oiled up engines but the oil pumps did go out in most cases n stopped pumping, so......

[Derekm803]

Sorta unrelated question but how much of a chore is it to swap the oil pump shaft from the top? I put the old one in when i put the new pump in. Kinda second guessing that now after I've seen first hand the resistance in that pump.

[Sirrotica]

Originally Posted by Derekm803

Sorta unrelated question but how much of a chore is it to swap the oil pump shaft from the top? I put the old one in when i put the new pump in. Kinda second guessing that now after I've seen first hand the resistance in that pump.

Unless someone ground the nubs off of the shaft, it only comes out from the bottom after the pan and pump are removed.

Taking premium oil, and putting additives in it, dilutes the additive package, and sometimes it puts too much of an additive, in the case of ZDDP too much makes the oil acidic. Additives also change the oxidation rate of the oil, so it wears out more quickly. The lubrication engineers are correct when they say to use the oil as it was designed, most backyard chemist attempts on making it better actually make it inferior to it just as it comes from the manufacturer.

Watch this video if you doubt that additives, for the most part, end up making the oil inferior to oil right from the manufacturer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CAGT5inQScE

I believe Ted has linked to the same video.

"If your oil needs additives, you're not using the correct oil to start with".

[P@blo]

Remembering when I was an oil expert brought back fond memories so I want to keep it real.

There are two types of people in the world:

1. Those that don't know.
2. Those that don"t know they don"t
know.

[tom s]

3 type,the ones that don’t care!Tom

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by TedRamAirII

I get information from people who have a education in their field, and is independent. People that recommend a oil additive just because their engine didnt scatter, when they added Grandpa's Majik Monkie Piss, doesnt cut it for me. Lake Speed Jr, takes the additives and has them analyzed at a oil lab. The reports dont lie. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CAGT5inQScE

So you don't think these companies run their stuff through labs ?
So how many times have you been down the track ?
This engine that had Lucas in it from day 1 was built around 1990. Started racing in the mid 90s and ran that engine, BEAT on it until 2019.
We are talking past 1200 trips down the track under full throttle.
Lucas does not harm a engine, proved it.
I would not run it on a super high RPM engine but for what we do its good stuff.
I like Lake Speed too and know what he does for a living.
I did not like that test he did on screen filters though. Took contaminated oil and ran it on a engine with a screen filter and it had problems.
But I doubt a standard filter would clean that oil like new unless it was a by pass toilet paper style.

[Skip Fix]

Originally Posted by tom s

1/4 the balancer a couple times when priming.That will get oil up to all the rockers.Tom

This is often needed. I smoked a 3.8 drill trying to prelube one motor a 1/2 " is usually needed and getting 60 psi was doable

[srmmmm]

Originally Posted by Schurkey

You are WAY over-thinking this.

GM builds millions of engines, and they DON'T prime the oiling system on virtually all of them. "Priming" the oiling system is much more a matter of obsession and religion, and much less a matter of doing anything that's actually useful.

Partially correct. They do not spin the oil pump on it's own, but they do run every engine across an electric powered dyno to check engine performance without its ignition or fuel systems active. So oil pressures are verified and oil is present throughout the engine before it is ever started under its own power.