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#81
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So would using a set of .5” taller upper and .5” taller lower ball joints in the factory an arms in my 69 GTO be a good idea even if it’s just a street/ strip 500hp car. I was thinking of going with Afco low friction ones and figured I would get the taller upper and lower while I was buying new ones.
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#82
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If you are keeping your factory arms, stick with the .5" tall upper ball joint only and focus your improvements via the alignment. When people say street/strip car, that typically means drag raced. For a car that is mostly cruised around town and then is taken to the drag strip, the tall ball joints are probably pointless. If you are replacing ball joints anyway, the tall upper isn't going to hurt you, so I would throw that in there as part of your suspension maintenance. I'll reiterate what I usually tell people. You won't feel the .5" tall ball joint in factory arms when leisurely driving around town or doing light to light or drag race stuff. You start to feel it as additional grip in faster sweeping corners, like you may see while doing some canyon runs etc. If you don't drive your car that way, there's no need for them.
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-Jason 1969 Pontiac Firebird |
#83
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As for final cost… the spindles were about $1,400. The steering arms another $450. I already had the upper control arms, the eBay lower arms were I think about $200, and I replaced the ball joints for about $60. New tie rod ends were another $150, give or take. Roughly $1000 (including shipping) for the new brakes. So what’s that, ballpark of $3,260? The upper arms I had purchased a couple years ago secondhand for about $400 iirc, and I replaced the upper ball joints for $60. So that would put my AFX spindle/front suspension and brake upgrades in the ballpark of $3,700. And I also had already purchased my 18” wheels and tires.
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Matt 70 GTO 400 4-speed "Turbos make no noise and leave the line like Baby Diarrhea!" - GTOGeorge |
#84
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Thanks! I agree…
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Matt 70 GTO 400 4-speed "Turbos make no noise and leave the line like Baby Diarrhea!" - GTOGeorge |
#85
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#86
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Forgot to ask, what size tire did you end up using in front? I'm currently running 245/45/18's
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#87
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I believe I have 245 40’s up front. I’d have to look, I done forgot! Lol
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Matt 70 GTO 400 4-speed "Turbos make no noise and leave the line like Baby Diarrhea!" - GTOGeorge |
#88
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Speedtech alignment specs for the AFX spindles are:
(Driver side) 4* positive caster, 0 to 1/2* negative camber, 3/32 toe in (Passenger side) 4-1/2* positive caster, 0 to 1/2* negative camber, 3/32 toe in. Y’all agree/recommend these settings?
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Matt 70 GTO 400 4-speed "Turbos make no noise and leave the line like Baby Diarrhea!" - GTOGeorge |
#89
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That looks like what I'm using on both cars. I might have 5 degrees on the caster on the Judge, but would have to go back and look.
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. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
#90
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Could I use a .5” taller lower ball joint on my stock 1969 GTO front end? I already have 1” drop springs but I wanted just a hair lower and wondered if this was something that would work with my factory stock a-arms?
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#91
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Could I use a .5” taller lower ball joint on my stock 1969 GTO front end? I already have 1” drop springs but I wanted just a hair lower and wondered if this was something that would work with my factory stock a-arms?
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#92
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For example, if you wanted to go auto-x, 1-1.5* of negative camber would be nice. Camber is one of those things that give huge performance benefits, at the cost of increased tire wear. But half a degree will make the front stick noticeably better.
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67 LeMans, 326, M20, 3.31 12 Bolt |
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