[461-69bird]

After my roller lifter failure, I have a lot of metal particles in the engine.
The filter was full of it and there`s some in the bottom of the sump.

what`s the best way to clean the block to get rid of the metal? would hot tanking it be good enough?

[25stevem]

Sure hot tanking would be fine providing that all the oil galley plugs are out of the the block and one of those 3 ft long galley brushes are run down thru a number of times.

Any shop with a hot tank should have such brushes.

The other concern is the oil passages in the Crank, as they may have collected some crap and need to be spotless also.

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by 461-69bird

After my roller lifter failure, I have a lot of metal particles in the engine.
The filter was full of it and there`s some in the bottom of the sump.

what`s the best way to clean the block to get rid of the metal? would hot tanking it be good enough?

The problem with hot tanking is there is no sodium hydroxide in the solution anymore. It is primarily hot water and detergent. If you have access to a hot water pressure washer you can accomplish the same thing. Pull every gallery plug, wash the block repeatedly, then run a magnet through every oil gallery before a final wash of mineral spirits.

[Sirrotica]

Years ago I had a piston melt in a 428 race engine, deposited molten aluminum throughout the engine. I tool all the plugs out and bought some rifle cleaning brushes to run through the galleys, I not only got the molten aluminum out, I got the sludge that hot tanking missed on the first go around. I've used rifle cleaning brushes since then.

Just my own recommendation, would be to run a by pass oil filter to remove anything you could have missed. Member here contacted me about running one after he had a HFT cam lobe wiped. He washed the engine out as thoroughly as he could in chassis, then added a by pass oil filter to ensure anything he could have missed got filtered out on the first pass through the by pass filter, his engine was a success, runs perfectly, and oil looks like it was just changed. He also told me as an extra precaution he took an old speaker magnet and put it on the bottom of the pan on the exterior of the pan to catch anything magnetic.

Even though I have been told repeatedly that a by pass oil filter has no place on these cars, I strongly disagree, and will run by pass filters on my own cars and trucks, hobby cars, as well as daily drivers, diesel and gas. The cleanest oil you can have in any engine, is never a drawback.

Hopefully this helps you out for reliability of your project, after the teardown and re assembly.

[461-69bird]

How do you set up the bypass filter?

[Sirrotica]

This is the schematic to show how one plumbs it:



The plumbing is simple, tap in to the oil sending switch, return through the oil fill cap.

There are a few companies that make them, Amsoil, Frantz. Many times you can find NOS stock on E Bay for less money. that's what the guy that had the HFT go flat, he bought an Amsoil kit from E Bay for $60.

Summit sells them new with install hardware and hoses for $249.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hos-fkbasc

How to fabricate your own kit:

https://www.google.com/search?q=Make...kiLMPseOwwAo26

Basic definition of a by pass filter:

Bypass oil filtration features a secondary filter with the purpose of eliminating nearly all contaminants from motor oil. Bypass filters have high capacities and eliminate much smaller particles than full-flow filters, including soot.

Hopefully this will get you started, if you decide to use one..........