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#21
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Don't plan on upgrading any suspension parts with this car as I wanna keep it stock (my other T/A perhaps, but that's another story)
I was hoping they would be a little more affordable since Summit had them listed a bit cheaper, but only had 2 in stock (at the time) with no plans for restocking It'll definitely sting, but I don't mind as long as I get it right the first time cause Circle Racing made it clear there are no returns Been to countless cruises/shows over the years, but the only car I've seen with this particular wheel is the 1st Gen vert posted above (that was from the Power Tour about a decade ago) Things were much easier with my Road Runner cause my local speed shop gave me several tire sizes to see what would fit without rubbing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcenVVInpms |
#22
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Every pic you've posted, except the pic of yours, all are lowered, with potentially the exception of the one with YO 17s.
As long as you realize, that once you put 18s on it, unless you go to a tall tire, the tire will look disproportionate to the wheel opening. If you're ok with that, carry on... .
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. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
#23
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First decide on tire sizes you think you want to run. Then get a wheel fitment tool and used tires in those sizes (if square setup only need 1 tire). Mount the tire on the tool and car and check to see if the tire sizes work (check for aesthetics, interference, etc). If the tire doesn’t work, choose a different size tire. Once you find the right sizes, use the tool to calculate what backspace you need. Then do your wheel shopping. There might be a production wheel you like that’s close. If not you could order a custom wheel. I’ve been considering Forgeline Heritage JO3C finished to mimic a Rally 2.
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"If the best Mustang is the Camaro, the best Camaro is actually the Firebird" David Zenlea |
#24
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Forgeline JO3C for a 18x8 starts at $1550ea. Pretty sure that's out of the OP's range.
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. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
#25
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Have you looked into US Mags Bandit (U109 or US304) or Trans AM (US722) series? They have 1 pc (17") and 2 pc (17" - 28")? Huge difference in price between the 1 pc and 2pc forged.
*Nevermind...I see these were suggested before and that you don't like the large openings. U109 US304 US722
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1970 GTO (Granada Gold) - 400 / TH400 Last edited by vertigto; 07-09-2021 at 04:09 PM. |
#26
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I am using 18x10 on rear with 5.75 inch backspacing. Rubber is 285 40 18. Fit easy. Did not have to roll the fenders, just ground off about an eight inch from the top side inner lip. Lowered car about a couple inches as well. I have about 3 quarters of an inch clearance to the leaf springs on both sides. There is room for 295s but I did not want to take a chance, and don't want to do any body mods. I'll attempt sending pics next.
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#27
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1976
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#28
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That solid blue large wheel lowered TA you showed in your original post under "WV/Circle Racing Billets on the Losi T/A" looks sweet, but what caught my attention was the molded in wheel spats. I bought my 76 in 1980 and it had the same, it was an 80s thing at the time. I stripped it all to bring to original OEM style which I greatly prefer. Not dishing it, but wow, that brought me back to the disco years (disclaimer, I did not listen to disco LOL - rock on).
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#29
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Here are some pics of the 18’s on my 72. I can get any info or measurements you need.
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#30
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Quote:
I could probably do a 295 in back, MAYBE a 305, but would have to mess with the back spacing to make it work. Up front, if I did a 5.25-5.5" BS, definately could do a 275, and with some checking/BS adjustment, probably a 295. (aftermarket control arms) I was limited to the back spacing available off the shelf, and matching tire sizes. For the same reason, I will probably end up with 275s & 255s, and to get a better selection. The difference in tread width is nominal. For example, the difference between a 275/35 and a 285/35 is .1" . A 285/30 and a 295/30 are the same tread width, at 11", so you can't really sneak up on it, it's a 1.1" jump. .
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. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
#31
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In the rear, I run 285/40-17 on 17X9 Year One Honeycombs. I have rolled the rear quarters but ended up with 3/8" spacers on the rear. No rubbing whatsoever at a relatively stock ride height.
So I would think if I did not have the rolled 1/4's, I would not run the spacers and would still be able to run a 285 in the rear easily. To be honest, if I were running 18's at this ride height, I would probably be toying with the idea of a 305 R888 tire.
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71 Formula 433, Splayed cap 400 block, 4" stroke Scat forged crank, 6.8 Eagle rods, custom Autotec pistons. SD 295 KRE D ports, Old faithful hybrid roller, Torker II, Holley Sniper Stealth, Tribal Tubes, TKO 600, 3.73 Eaton posi. |
#32
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These look pretty good
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James 1970 Trans Am Spotts Built 484" IA2, Highports, EFI Northwind Terminator X sequential EFI fabrication and suspension by https://www.funkhouserracecars.com/ |
The Following User Says Thank You to R 70 Judge For This Useful Post: | ||
#33
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"Didn't have to roll the fender. Just ground off some of the lip"
Love it. Of course, it variations of the same thing. Didn't have to grind anything, just rolled the fender. Yes, I'm just stirring. Some of the inner fenders aren't that clean or even anyway and can be tidied up and remove any potential edges and additional clearance while at it. Of course, rolly polly stock suspension can make a big difference in how much clearance. Carry on! I have 285 on R17, stiffer suspension. Looked at rolling the rears just to keep clean but also have the aluminium wheel arch trim and it is expected would be destroyed trying to do with it installed, or install after. Then found had plenty clearance anyway. Not all that related to original question except that it can be hard to tell or give exact answers to non exact questions! Last edited by Aus78Formula; 12-26-2021 at 10:16 PM. |
#34
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I looked at all wheel and tyre sizes before I decided on them. I ended up going with 17 x 8 on the front running 245 45 17s and 18 x 9.5 on the rear running 295 35 18s.
As in one of the photos before the car was painted, I had a rear wheel and tyre set up and installed and there was too much gap so I had the rear springs reset also. I like the stance of the car now but unfortunately, with more than just me in the car, the right hand guard hits on the tyre over bumps. I have been advised that I will have to get the guard rolled. |
The Following User Says Thank You to fbd73 For This Useful Post: | ||
#35
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While I'm not crazy on large diameters or wheel bling, I like the stance on that one and the fact you have not only staggered the tyre but also the rims, even if subtle. I'm not a hug fan of the common front and rear matching tyre sizes that create a front heavy look due to the wider front track and rear wheelarch unused space. But then, little things annoy me and the big things, meh.
And easily fixed, no others in car! Fine, no fat chicks! I was being diplomatic, and nothing to do with tyre scrubbing! |
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