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#1
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Car status update:
Well progress on my 67 GTO has progressively slowed and now I'm pretty much waiting on the body guy. It looks like he won't be able to touch it until fall, which is kind of irritating. But to a point this works out somewhat for me since I recently purchased a house and will be spending the next few months refinishing the basement and building a garage! once that is done and bill are straightened out I will be right back into the car. I will also be using some of the car money to purchase a 2-post lift and an air compressor large enough to support my air tools.
I'm curious as to what you guys are using for 2-post lifts? This is the one I'm looking at: http://www.autotoolusa.com/at10ohhd.html And this is the compressor I'm looking at: http://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/...FQEHaQodrV8AAg
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1967 GTO, 432 (428+.030), 4-bolt mains, factory Nodular crank, scat rods, icon dished pistons, Lunati HR 243/251@.050, .618/.622 lift, Edelbrock 72cc round port heads, 10.5:1, offy 2-4 intake, Edelbrock 650cfm carbs, Super T10 trans (2.64 first), BOP 10 bolt w/ Eaton posi and 3.36 gears |
#2
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Lift looks fine. Get a symmetric. Asymmetric sucks to use. I went with a Mohawk USL 6000 because I didn't have room for the posts on a twin post. Also, post lifts make getting to the doors and under the dash really difficult. They are the bees knees for trans or undercar work, though! Ideally, I'd have both types. 4 post lifts are good for storage and oil changes, and not much else.
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Jeff |
#3
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Lift looks ok. 2 friends have them in their auto shops and like them a lot. If an 80 gallon air compressor doesn't cost much more I'd go that route. Put it in it's own vented insulated room (for noise reduction and needed storage) attached to the garage with a door to get to it from the garage (to bleed off moisture in the tank), and an outside door big enough to get it out if you have too. No sense taking up space in the garage you need for the important stuff, and it'll be much quieter too.
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Gary Get in, ShuT Up, Hang On! Member of the Baltimore Built Brotherhood MY GTO built 4th Week of March 1966 "Crusin' Is Not A Crime" Keep yer stick on the ice. |
#4
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Quote:
I prefer asymetric lifts since they make it easier to opened and close the door. Also this lift has the longer fron arms which allow for both asymetric and symetric use. I'm not a big fan of 4 posts since they take up quite a bit of space so I pretty much ruled them out right away. Quote:
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1967 GTO, 432 (428+.030), 4-bolt mains, factory Nodular crank, scat rods, icon dished pistons, Lunati HR 243/251@.050, .618/.622 lift, Edelbrock 72cc round port heads, 10.5:1, offy 2-4 intake, Edelbrock 650cfm carbs, Super T10 trans (2.64 first), BOP 10 bolt w/ Eaton posi and 3.36 gears |
#5
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Make sure you run a hose or pipe out the wall for when you drain off the water in the compressor. It'll save you from the rusty wet mess on the floor and everything else.
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Gary Get in, ShuT Up, Hang On! Member of the Baltimore Built Brotherhood MY GTO built 4th Week of March 1966 "Crusin' Is Not A Crime" Keep yer stick on the ice. |
#6
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The problem with asymmetric racks, in use, is that the posts have to be set closer together. This makes the doors just as hard to get in and out of, and you will have clearance issues with the mirrors on pickup trucks, etc. I have both at work, and hate the asymmetric lift in day to day use. JMHO, though....
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Jeff |
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