[jtwoods4]

Originally Posted by Formulabruce

Watched it, good video work! Couple thoughts.
1. Very interesting changing the angle of the pushrod, as you most likely changed the angle of the master? Manual disc cars dont have the master facing the sky though usually,Why did you need a different angle>?
2. The factor "stud" is a grade 8 welded pin. Since your bolt is probably smaller, and threaded, it "may" have less shear strength. I would consider a grade 8 bolt for this mission since it appears you dont have a safety net ( the factory front to rear set up where if rear fails front still works). I would lube it some too, use a metal locking nut. IMHO.
3. Since the position of the rod is in a different spot, the pedal height and brake switch will probably need adjusting, and Im guessing down. It appears this will be a shot travel distance set up?
Lots of cool engineering in this car!! I really hope you like driving it and its not too stiff and handles well..
Looks good, and thanks for posting all the great pics and info

Thank you Formulabruce. To answer your point 1, the CNC Dual master is angled different since it has a different mounting bracket. I moved the pushrod up a hole in order to get more leverage since more force will be required by my leg with the manual brake setup.

Point 2, I am running a dual master so if the front fails the rear still works, and vice versa. The 2 stud that go through the firewall to mount the master cylinder were provided by the manufacturer. They are allan head bolts with nuts on the inside of the firewall. I hope they hold I was thinking about that today so I am going to make sure I install an emergency brake system on the car..... just in case. I plan on doing thorough inspections during the first few months of driving to make sure everything is holding up.

Point 3, you are absolutely correct, I have to push the brake light switch back a little and adjust the pushrod length to get it to fit. Good eye.

[Formulabruce]

Dot 5??

[jtwoods4]

Originally Posted by Formulabruce

Dot 5??

yes I want to run high temperature dot 5 but just like all master cylinders mine came with the sticker on it that said only use dot 3. I think that sticker is there for legal reasons though because the master cylinder is just a metal Container. I don't think it cares if dot 3 or dot 5 is in there.

[FunctionalShaker]

JT, I would contact the shop, see if they can find the clip for you.

[jtwoods4]

Originally Posted by FunctionalShaker

JT, I would contact the shop, see if they can find the clip for you.

Yeah tried that but they didn't have it or claimed they didn't see it. Oh well, the one I salvaged off a $27 fuel gauge cluster from ebay worked perfect . Worlds most expensive clip though, had to buy the whole gauge cluster to get the clip from it.....

[giles]

Originally Posted by jtwoods4

yes I want to run high temperature dot 5 but just like all master cylinders mine came with the sticker on it that said only use dot 3.

FYI Ford sells a higher temperature DOT 3. I'm going to use this stuff in my next brake overhaul;

http://www.fordparts.com/Products/Ch...-Cleaners.aspx

[jtwoods4]

Well I had to make an updated Pushrod. The first pushrod was made out of aluminum and that could possibly bend under the force of the brake pedal. Here is an updated video showing the new pushrod (and the new steel sleeve I made )

The new pushrod is all hardened steel. The CNC Master cylinder just has a tube that the pushrod slips into. Pushrod goes about 1.5 inches into the hole and bottoms out. Once the other end is connected to the brake pedal there is no way it can slip out. Check out the new video. New Bolt holding pushrod to pedal is 3/4 inch, that won't break


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lZZJO...ature=youtu.be

[Formulabruce]

Looks MUCH safer! Glad you went this route, your leg has a lot of leverage on that rod...
I like Dot 5. No mess if spilled and performance on a manual system is great as you don't feel as though you'll "lock" up as easily.
Giles, Thanks for the link on the Ford product, I will look into that!

[transam1972]

Originally Posted by jtwoods4

Yeah tried that but they didn't have it or claimed they didn't see it. Oh well, the one I salvaged off a $27 fuel gauge cluster from ebay worked perfect . Worlds most expensive clip though, had to buy the whole gauge cluster to get the clip from it.....

I am glad you got the correct clip...and sometimes we do what we gotta do!!...if you need to remove your engine tuned dash plate again, remove the bolts securing the bracket under the steering column...this allows the column to drop and you will have a lot more room to remove/install the dash plate..I also went for a repo. light/dimmer switch(F Body warehouse has an install video]...and a correct cigarette lighter(although no smoking, except tires, in my car!)....and I see you have a lot more going on with brakes and evertything else!!...good job!

[jtwoods4]

Thank you Transam1972. I actually did take the bolts out and drop the column down, however, I managed to scratch it anyway

[jtwoods4]

Does anyone know who the site administrator or moderator is? We need to rename this post to 1970 Trans Am Project.

[jtwoods4]

New Steering shaft dust boot and brake lines installed

DUST BOOT VIDEO

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dTy_K...ature=youtu.be


BRAKE LINE VIDEO

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x4zPr...ature=youtu.be

[transam1972]

Han to Luke, don't worry kid, we'll find you!!..unbelievable of what you are doing!!..video really makes it!..don't pressure yourself to post the next work...everyone is waiting, but no deadlines...just Headlines...I know everyone here can help you on a dimes notice...stick to your guns kid..and we will see you through!!

[jtwoods4]

Ha Ha thanks 72

[speedfreq]

Not sure if anyone else mentioned this but I saw the wires off of the steering column riding on the threads from your brake bolt. With the amount of use the brake pedal gets I would check to make sure they don't get snagged or rubbed through. Great work in documenting and engineering your car!!

[jtwoods4]

Good eye! Thank you!

[jtwoods4]

I am having no luck finding any polyurethane motor mounts for my 1970 engine. Looks like they are made for the later model firebirds but not for the early model firebirds. The only option I can find are the Mity Mounts or the Butler Performance solid mounts. My engine will be putting out 550 lbs torque. I know there are other people with hot rodded engines out there. What are you using for motor mounts. With that much torque the rubber style mounts just wont cut it.

[speedfreq]

I don't think I've ever seen any made for the early style mounts. I drilled my sub for the later style mounts and since there were none made at the time built my own by buying some OEM clamshells, drilling the rivits and removing the rubber. Then replacing it with some poly inserts that someone was making. It was fairly easy just had to trim the poly ones a bit. But if you don't want to use the later mounts I'm not sure you have any ready made solutions. One of the main reasons there isn't much made for the early style is that they are supposedly weaker than the later ones.

[jtwoods4]

Well I finished bleeding the master cylinders and connected the front brake lines today. Detailed video below. I also included a video of the K-Tool Brake Line Flaring tool. If you have ever used the old school brake flaring tools you know how much of a pain in the ass they are. Well this K-Tool flaring tool is absolutely amazing. Does a perfect flare every time, no trouble at all. Expensive at around 200 bucks but well worth it if you have to flare several fittings.


Brake Line Video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bcAmp...ature=youtu.be


K-Tool Video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dshw6...ature=youtu.be

[Formulabruce]

great vids, thanks! your caps on the master vented?