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THE LOBBY A gathering place. Introductions, sports, showin' off your ride, birthday-anniversary-milestone, achievements, family oriented humor. |
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#1
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Rusty nut/bolt removal
A PontiManiac friend sent me this:
Penetrating Oils - FYI Machinist's Workshop Mag recently published some information on various penetrating oils that was very interesting. Some of you might appreciate this. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts. They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment. *Penetrating oils .......... Average torque load to loosen* No Oil used ................... 516 pounds WD-40 .......................... 238 pounds PB Blaster ..................... 214 pounds Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds ATF*-Acetone mix...........53 pounds The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50-50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price. Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix. *ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid
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65 Catalina sedan. Allen Thomas Performance 495. KRE Heads at 310cfm ported by SD Performance, ProSystems Dominator carb on ported Victor intake, P-Dude custom grind hydraulic roller, MSD ignition, 3.50 Moser/Ford rear. F-Glass front bumper by son Rob, rear by the old man and joint effort for trunk lid. 3950# w/driver. Best of 9.5761/139 on 175 shot, 6.01 /114 in 1/8. |
#2
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Thanks for the info ! Pretty much confirmed what I have experienced. Never liked WD40 as a penetrating oil and not that impressed with PB Blaster either. Sili-Kroil is what I like to use, but will mix up a home brew of ATF and acetone and give it a whirl. Mark
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#3
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Nice find, thanks for posting. Did they say how the bolts were "scientifically rusted"?
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#4
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Thats very interesting. WD40 isnt really a penetrant anyway. Its a water dispersant. Still good to have in the garage though. Must try and get myself some acetone now...
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'64 Grand Prix in Yorktown Blue on 8 lugs. 400 th400 combo. |
#5
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Quote:
I'm anxious to try the ATF/Acetone mix. Gotta find some rusty nuts and bolts. Jim
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65 Catalina sedan. Allen Thomas Performance 495. KRE Heads at 310cfm ported by SD Performance, ProSystems Dominator carb on ported Victor intake, P-Dude custom grind hydraulic roller, MSD ignition, 3.50 Moser/Ford rear. F-Glass front bumper by son Rob, rear by the old man and joint effort for trunk lid. 3950# w/driver. Best of 9.5761/139 on 175 shot, 6.01 /114 in 1/8. |
#6
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Quote:
Jim
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65 Catalina sedan. Allen Thomas Performance 495. KRE Heads at 310cfm ported by SD Performance, ProSystems Dominator carb on ported Victor intake, P-Dude custom grind hydraulic roller, MSD ignition, 3.50 Moser/Ford rear. F-Glass front bumper by son Rob, rear by the old man and joint effort for trunk lid. 3950# w/driver. Best of 9.5761/139 on 175 shot, 6.01 /114 in 1/8. |
#7
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I would have liked to see GIBBS in that comparison.
Very interesting about the ATF*-Acetone mix. However I would think you would have to be extra carfull about paint with the acetone. Thanks for posting. |
#8
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Quote:
Good point about the acetone and paint. Jim
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65 Catalina sedan. Allen Thomas Performance 495. KRE Heads at 310cfm ported by SD Performance, ProSystems Dominator carb on ported Victor intake, P-Dude custom grind hydraulic roller, MSD ignition, 3.50 Moser/Ford rear. F-Glass front bumper by son Rob, rear by the old man and joint effort for trunk lid. 3950# w/driver. Best of 9.5761/139 on 175 shot, 6.01 /114 in 1/8. |
#9
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http://www.gibbsbrand.net/automotiveuses.html I haven't heard of it used so much as a penetrant for rusty bolts, but more for rust prevention - some of the hot rodder guys will spray it on bare metal bodies.
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#10
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Thanks Stuart...I should have known you would find it !! If Gibbs does all that they claim then the price of $16 [12 oz] might be worth it.
Thanks, Jim
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65 Catalina sedan. Allen Thomas Performance 495. KRE Heads at 310cfm ported by SD Performance, ProSystems Dominator carb on ported Victor intake, P-Dude custom grind hydraulic roller, MSD ignition, 3.50 Moser/Ford rear. F-Glass front bumper by son Rob, rear by the old man and joint effort for trunk lid. 3950# w/driver. Best of 9.5761/139 on 175 shot, 6.01 /114 in 1/8. |
#11
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i tried the acetone mix and did not see any difference removing exhaust manifolds on a 2000 explorer.i used pb on one side and the mix of acetone on the other and the pb loosened up the bolts better in my opinion.
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#12
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weve had this discussion a few times before
ATF and acetone really works
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Everything comes and goes Pleasure moves on too early And trouble leaves too slow |
#13
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never tried the 50/50 mix.
in my experience, CRC rules. I've disassembled several pontiac carcasses, and the bolts that were frozen practically fell off after a 15 minute soak w/ freezeoff or bolt loose crc. I definatly will try the home brew tho...thanks for posting the test results. |
#14
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GR8 thread with the comparison data. Wonder why no Coca-Cola results?
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#15
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I prefer my "heat wrench".
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3 Generations of "Beach Boys Racing" ! Everybody knows somthin. Nobody knows everything ! 1st time on a dragstrip, 1964. Flagstart ! "Thanks for the entertainment." "Real Indians Don't Wear Bowties" |
#16
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They missed one
GM rust penetrant and inhibitor heat valve lubricant ;-)
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370 Posts and holding... |
#17
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For rusted nuts on a stud heat it up and drip candle wax on it & keep heating - the wax will work its way between the nut & the stud & act as a lubricant when you remove the nut.
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