[formula400]

Looks good !

[317th FMS]

My NOS stripes were in the GM tubes for 15 years before I used them. I just layed them out with a weight on each corner for a few days and they were flat. So this should not be of any concern. Chad

[carbuff]

Hey, I recognize that car!

First, I want to thank Greg for driving up to Austin and helping me with the install! While this might be able to be done with just a single person, I really don't think it would work very well. You need to work quickly to get the air/liquid out from under the stripe before it dries at the edges. With the size of the pieces on this car, that would be really hard to do with just 1 person.

Greg has put together a terrific product here! While I don't have the experience and knowledge of many of you here regarding the NOS stripes, I can say that these pieces are exceptional from what I can see. As Greg said, we didn't finish the nose bird, but I can do that one alone as it's so small...

A few other suggestions that I may add to Greg's list:

• You need 2 people, and 2 'spreaders'
• You need 2 bottles of the Rapid Tac applicator (assuming you choose to use it, which I recommend). We used most of the 2, could have used them all if we tried to soak all of the paper before removal.
• You need 1 bottle of the Rapid Prep to clean the surface before application.
• Watch the video and do it just as he suggests. Start from the center and work things out with light pressure, and press harder as you repeat. Because of the transfer paper, you can't see any bubbles which are left until after you remove it, so go over and over and over it before you think you're done.
• Save a piece of the transfer paper to use to try and work out any small bubbles that may exist after you remove the paper. You can see me doing that in one of the pictures on the trunk. You don't want to use the spreader directly on the stripe I don't think, it may gouge/scratch it.
• You will also certainly have at least 1 bubble left after you're done. As suggested, let the car sit in the sun and heat up, that may help. Unfortunately that won't completely solve the problem though, at least it didn't after 6+ hours for me, so I used a needle to prick a small hole to release the liquid. When you do this, use your finger to work the liquid towards the hole, but be careful not to push directly on the hole at first, or you may cause the adhesive to seal around the hole, requiring a second hole to release the remaining liquid. You can also use the transfer paper again as I mentioned above to finish smoothing out the stripe after getting the liquid out.
• Definitely pull the transfer paper with a shear, as Greg mentioned. We did end up with 1 big bubble that was likely caused by pulling up instead of sideways, which lifted the stripe. I got it mostly smoothed out with the needle, but not completely. This was on the top of the car, which is a hard place to pull as you get near the edge at the rear window.
• Buy one of those cloth tape measures that you see taped to the trunk. You need the flexibility to measure across the contours. We actually didn't use it for the hood stripe, we eyeballed around the shaker opening to center the rear, and we used the 'peak' of the hood and 'point' of the stripe to align the front. But the top and trunk and spoiler definitely needed the tape measure. Also the blue painters tape was used to hold all pieces in place as we measured, and the grease pencil was a big help. The Rapic Tac will cause the tape to release, so don't rely on the tape placement to locate the stripe once you have wet everything and are ready to put it in place (we learned that on the hood). The grease pencil will come right off of the paint.
• Aligning the vertical piece on the spoiler took us some time. You need to remove the spoiler to install the piece on the trunk lid first, as about 1/4" or so will go under the spoiler. Then we set the spoiler back in place and eyeballed the side to side centering on the spoiler. Getting the height on the spoiler right was tricky though. Even though I thought it looked correct, Greg measured with the cloth tape measure and found I was off by about 1/4" side to side. Again, this is where it really helped to have a second person. Be patient, measure, re-measure, and re-measure again.
• Also on the spoiler, we tucked about 1/8" around the front lip. We didn't clean the bottom of the spoiler very well before we installed it, so be sure you do that also and realize that you will tuck there.
• When we tucked the spoiler and the opening for the shaker, go slowly. Don't try to tuck it all the way at once. Similarly to how you would roll a fender lip, bend it about half way the first time to start the stretch around the lip, then come back around again and finish it. This way you are less likely to crease the stripe but going to far at once. That worked great for us.

To install the 4 pieces that you see in the pictures took us about 2.5 hours. We were working pretty methodically, and Greg took a few pictures, but I doubt we could have taken off more than 30 minutes at most. And there are still the nose bird and lettering which we haven't installed, so plan accordingly when you are thinking about when to do this. And out of the sun is probably helpful, especially the Texas sun in the summertime.

Phew, sorry for being so wordy, but hopefully those thoughts/tips will help some of you when doing your own install.

Now, if I could just get started on all of the other projects that I have for this car...

[FunctionalShaker]

Thanks for your input, Bryan.

[njsteve]

As for the remaining bubbles: As painful as they are to look at (like a prom queen's pimple on prom night) they will go away. Refrain from using the needle unless you use the finest gauge insulin needle you can locate. Don't use a pin - it's way too blunt and way too big. It will stretch and tear the vinyl and leave a permanent defect you will see later.

Leaving the "pimples" alone is the best route. It just takes time. Sometimes as along as a week or two depending upon your ambient heat and humidity: the higher the heat and lower the humidity, the faster the bubbles will vent to the atmosphere through the vinyl.

It took almost two weeks for all the bubbles to disappear from my original decal installation. And all the ones that I ignored and didn't use a hypodermic needle on, were completely invisible at the end of the two weeks. The ones that I struggled to squeegy and pin prick, were the ones you could see.

[Norwood]

Friday when my mail came with it came my new stripe kit from Greg. All I can say is Greg got it right. All the issues with the Phoenix Graphics kit were addressed and corrected. The Quality of this product is the highest level. From the shipping to the packing and of course the product this is simply done right.

I opened the protective tube to find the whole kit heat sealed in a plastic wrapper for protection. I pulled it out to take a look and I am impressed. From the quality of the kit to the directions to the warranty it all top notch.

Congratulations Greg, finally a product vendor who gets it. We want the highest quality available for our cars and Greg is providing that.

Here is hoping that this venture is VERY SUCSESSFUL for Greg so he might consider making 100% correct decal kits for other years. I'm pretty sure that you SD and Bandit Guy's want the same quality as I do. Thanks Greg, you hit a Home Run with these

http://www.transamstripes.net/

Shipping Tube




GM Authorized



Packing







Decals






Warranty



Directions

[cnc]

Just got my kit today Greg....CANT FREAKIN WAIT to paint the car next year and put these on.....
Like Norwood Said ....everthing looks top notch and packed perfect...Thanks Greg awesome product....Chris

[165th]

Good news, it looks like I'll be able to make it to POCI next week in St. Charles Ill.

I should have a display of some sort put up somewhere if all goes well!

If you are going to POCI and you'd like to purchase a set of stripes prior to the trip and take delivery at the show, then send me an email or PM and I'll give you a discount code to enter during checkout that will deduct shipping from the order.

If you'd like to purchase a set at the show, please let me know. It'll help me determine how much inventory to bring.

Continued thanks for the positive feedback I'm continuing to receive from those of you who have taken delivery of your kits.

Thank you Carbuff, cnc, Norwood for your comments. They are truly appreciated.

[cnc]

Well for those who bought the kit I thought I would share a little somethin I found out tonight....
For those that have not opened there kit ....ya might want to and find the little EXTRA inside....

I opened my kit ( a little birdie suggested I do ) and well there is an "EXTRA "
TRANS AM lettering inside.....WTF
Its the Large rear spoiler one ....so if ya haven't opened it, crack it open and put that extra decal to use......just a heads up on a GREAT KIT.... this thing is toooo coool

[Jim Robertson]

I will have some of Greg's stripes for sale at Norwalk. I spend most of my time on PY in the RACE section however I am a proud customer of Greg. His stripes are going on my 72 TA race car and my 71 restoration. And Greg is a very good customer of my engine shop. So, when I found out he was not going to Norwalk I offered to display and sell a few stripe sets for him. We will be set up in the pits and will be with Milt "Big Chief" Milton. Milt is racing and I am spectating...this year. Look for a BIG yellow 66 Bonneville drag car with skirts and 8 lugs...along with the www.transamstripes.net banner. Come by our pits to say Hello and see these beauties for yourself.

See you there,
Jim
Home of the 800HP Iron Dports
www.racev8s.com

[Scott455HO]

Greg was nice enough to sell me the hood stripe only. I didn't get the squeegee, Any suggestions where I can pick one up, or something that will work just as good?

[Scott455HO]

My mistake, Greg did include a squeegee in my shipment. I guess all that's left is to install my stripe. I think tomorrow it goes on. I'll post pics when I'm done.

[Norwood]

Good luck

[cnc]

yep good luck and please post pics ....

[Scott455HO]

Why put off till tomorrow what you can do today!
I know... there's a little white showing on the hood over run but it's equal on both sides.I have a few small bubbles but I'm hoping the sun will take care of that. Overall I'm quite pleased with the results.

[165th]

Originally Posted by Scott455HO

Why put off till tomorrow what you can do today!
I know... there's a little white showing on the hood over run but it's equal on both sides.I have a few small bubbles but I'm hoping the sun will take care of that. Overall I'm quite pleased with the results.

BEAUTIFUL

[Lloyd-TX]

Damn fine product, Greg. Once again - a HUGE congrats for getting them done RIGHT!

What a crying shame that most other vendors / manufacturers don't give a flying leap about doing it right . . .

[Scott455HO]

I wanted tp add a couple of tips from my experience. They said to move the car into the sun before finishing the shaker opening. This is to help curl the overrun down and enable the corners to stretch into place easier. I decided to have a blow dryer on the ready. When I got to the shaker opening I used it on the corners and then quickly around the perimiter (about 10-15 seconds total). Then I used my 3 fingers together perpendicular to the hood in a downward direction and the shaker opening came out great.

[yellow fever]

Originally Posted by 165th

"HOT" off the press today

Why do the blue stripes in this picture look so much deeper blue than most others, which look more aqua green?

[165th]

Originally Posted by yellow fever

Why do the blue stripes in this picture look so much deeper blue than most others, which look more aqua green?

Hi Yellow Fever, I really don't know. It might have been the Kelvin temperature of the shop lamps in the manufacturing production area or the exposure on the camera or a little of both. At first I was a little worried they were not going to read true to the correct aqua green color, but to the contrary, the color came out virtually identical to the original stripes.

Those who have seen the NOS stripes matched up to these stripes may also be able to chime in on this one.

A side note on this topic... When I picked up the product and NOS parts that were used in color matching, to my surprise, I found out in order to do a computer color rendering,
they took a swatch of.... my NOS rear deck stripe.

Oh well, the price of success right? Luckily these came out as good if not better than NOS so no worries!