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loggerhead · 09-30-2007, 05:31 PM

I have a 8.5" 10-Bolt in a 1976 Trans Am with 500HP. Has anyone ever broken or heard
of someone breaking an axle with street tires? I'm not referring to broken gears, carriers, etc. I am talking about the axles themselves. (Stock axles)
Also, is there any mod to the 10-bolt besides c-clip eliminators which will keep a
broken axle in the housing? Is it possible for a "non-broken" axle to leave the housing
due to a broken carrier?

Thanks,
David

jbweld · 06:20 PM

The only way to ensure an axle won't leave the housing is w/C-clip eliminators. And yes, if the carrier breaks and the side gear splits or the c-clip falls out, the axle will exit the housing w/out C-clip elims. Stepping up to better axles at 500HP will make the carrier the next weak link. If you continue to reinforce the 10-bolt and throw all the parts that are needed at it you'll end up with over $2,000 in it and still won't be good for much more than 600HP on a good day.

What it boils down to is you're running too much HP through that 10-bolt. It's probably time to step up to a Moser or Currie 9". They are the cheapest of the well known shops out there. Actually, the best choice if you're pretty sure you won't be swapping ratios much in the future is the 12-bolt from Moser. All these are available bolt-in except for brakes which they can take care of for you, too. I think Strange also sells bolt-ins now for F-bodys, but don't quote me on that.

Be ready for about $2,500 to your door.

JB

ponjohn · 09-30-2007, 06:14 PM

I am all about over building BUT I have heard great things about a properly prepped 8.5 surviving slicks and high HP.

screamingchief · 09-30-2007, 06:20 PM

Quote:

Has anyone ever broken or heard of someone breaking an axle with street tires?

Yes.

Quote:

Also, is there any mod to the 10-bolt besides c-clip eliminators which will keep a broken axle in the housing?

Again,Yes.

Weld on axle housing ends and press on axle bearings with axle mounting plates can acheive the same goal.

Also some "fixed caliper" rear disc set-ups use a caliper bridge that will often be just strong enough to keep the axle in place if the C-clip is AWOL,the late model caprice 8.5" ten bolt rear disc brakes are one such assembly that comes to mind.

Quote:

Is it possible for a "non-broken" axle to leave the housing due to a broken carrier?

Yes,if the spider shatters or the pinion shaft gets damaged it's possible the C-clip could fall off the end of the axle,all it takes is just a little bit of extra clearance in the whole deal and that can happen.

HTH.

73ta · 09-30-2007, 06:41 PM

WS6 style rear disks will keep the axles in.

Skip Fix · 09-30-2007, 08:29 PM

Something isn't right if you are breaking axles with street tires. The tires should break loose first, unless you are spinning one side hard.I know several guys deep in the 10s with stock axles. My own 78 has run many 1.5 60 fts and high 10s low 11s with stock axles.

The axles are generally weaker than the stock posi.

Upgrade to a 30 spline Eaton and soem 30 spline axles from someone like Moser. If they send you 30 spline 12 bolt axles the C clip button may need some grinding.

LouisianaGuy · 09-30-2007, 09:01 PM

Broke an alxe in a friends Chevelle with street tires on a Concrete parking lot...HAd a bit of wheel hop, then let off and stuck it and kapow snapped the axle right off, thankfully I was going less than 5mph about to pull on the road when A friend yelled at me LOL
I would say get ya an EAton and some 30 spline axles and roll it...that is what im runnign with ET Street Radials and pulling Meager 1.74 60'
Mike

Johnny406 · 10-01-2007, 04:46 AM

I upgraded to a 30 spline Eaton posi myself. Both Yukon and Dutchman make 30 spline 8.5 10 bolt axles. Contact Monzaz on this forum, he'll take care of you.

GonicGM · 10-01-2007, 07:01 AM

Good idea to Bret, 73 T/A, etc. on disc brake caliper retention. Will that pass NHRA tech for slicks as positive axle retention?

Skips right, if you're tires aren't getting equal hook and one is loaded more than the other, that axle is carrying the burden of the load. The Eaton gov-loc posi actually has a torque limiting disc to avoid this. It's a clutch with many internal splines missing, designed to shear the few splines that are there to avoid braking the axle.

Even so, aftermarket axles are probably in order.

Skip Fix · 10-01-2007, 11:41 AM

So Johnny the axles fit in the posi without grinding? Always wondered how the Yukon's compare to Strange,Moser, Tom's KA axles for strength and material.

Also remember rear gear ratio multiplies torque, more gear more torque hitting the axles.

30 spline is in my car's future

Figure I've pushed the envelope long enough.

Johnny406 · 10-01-2007, 11:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skip Fix

So Johnny the axles fit in the posi without grinding? Always wondered how the Yukon's compare to Strange,Moser, Tom's KA axles for strength and material.

Also remember rear gear ratio multiplies torque, more gear more torque hitting the axles.

30 spline is in my car's future

Figure I've pushed the envelope long enough.

The only grinding I did was the spline ends. They were about .040 too long to fit with the Eaton posi. They are real nice beefy axles, drilled for both 7/16 press and 1/2 screw which is the way I went. They fit and sealed perfect on the ends. While installing them, I changed out the outer seals.

Larry Navarro · 10-01-2007, 12:08 PM

In my case....., '79t/a 4speed......the Super T10 grenaded before the stock rear-end. I do use a LPW rearcover for added strength. Last weekend the 4speed let loose before the driveshaft/rearend assembly.....and this was on drag radials and asphalt.
In my case, F-body 10 bolts are pretty strong, even with the 3.23 gear.
FWIW......I have no horsepower/torque figures but it is capable of 11.89@119mph

screamingchief · 10-01-2007, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Will that pass NHRA tech for slicks as positive axle retention?

Uhhh,,,nope...

Minor technicality,,,LOL...

He never mentioned anything about it needing to be legal for competition.

See this is the "street" forum,soooo maybe I figured that was'nt an issue.

I just figured the guy had some know-it-all telling him he needed to be worried about wrinkling up a quarter panel up if the axle goes AWOL,and he was asking here for options.

In my defense,I did mention the weld-on axle ends as another option,and those are NHRA/IHRA legal for competition use.

GonicGM · 10-01-2007, 09:59 PM

Just curious Bret, no biggie. Still a good suggestion. Would have been another plus.

JoePapa · 10-01-2007, 10:08 PM

FWIW, I've been there and broke that on street tires too. The first time to the track I twisted the rearend housing. After that it was ring gears, yokes, and axles. I had to cut the end off to save the twist - you could see the twist clearly. I was tired of breaking and was going for a 9" or 12 bolt until I read in Hot Rod that someone in a GTO on PowerTour broke the 12 bolt. It's a nominal difference in size from 8.5" to 8 7/8 or even to 9". I opted for the Dana60 and haven't had any issues with that part since.

Just my .02...

tempest455 · 10-01-2007, 10:11 PM

Use good axles (Moser, Williams, Strange etc) Eaton posi, have the tubes welded and you will not have any problems. Aftermarket axles at the least.

aMaizedGoat · 10-04-2007, 10:10 PM

I was at a BOP Drags event in Bremerton, Wa. talking to a guy who was pointing me towards his buddy's 442 that was an "awesome launcher"... Yeah, he broke an axle on an awesome launch. Totally munched his rear quarter panel and took some time to get it off the strip.
I went with a Moser 12 bolt with 33 spline axles.

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