[bigblue66]

Removed the old delaminated windshield on our 66 Tempest and cleaned out the channel really well (very little rust), sanded and painted it and then put in new pins. Got a glass guy to install a new windshield. He use butyl tape but then insisted on using the black silicone caulk which he heavily glopped into the channel. I left out the molding clips because I did not want them embedded in that goo. Now I'll need to cut out some of the caulk where he got too close to the pins in order to slide the clips in. This seems too hard. What's the right way to do this? Is the caulk required if the butly seal is good? Should the clips be installed and then the entire channel caulked?
Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks,

Pete

[paintdaddy]

The clips are better installed before the glass guy gets there.The glass guys use the caulk so they can adjust the glass if need be after laying it on the butyl.

[Greg Reid]

It may be a safety/liability issue as well. The urethane caulk is much stronger than the butyl tape and is supposed to prevent the windshield from flying out in accidents. That's the reason I've read for the industry switching over to it in the early to mid 1970s.
I would have let him put it over the clips. Just makes for a better water seal IMO.

[Junkyard Dog]

Originally Posted by bigblue66

Removed the old delaminated windshield on our 66 Tempest and cleaned out the channel really well (very little rust), sanded and painted it and then put in new pins. Got a glass guy to install a new windshield. He use butyl tape but then insisted on using the black silicone caulk which he heavily glopped into the channel. I left out the molding clips because I did not want them embedded in that goo. Now I'll need to cut out some of the caulk where he got too close to the pins in order to slide the clips in. This seems too hard. What's the right way to do this? Is the caulk required if the butly seal is good? Should the clips be installed and then the entire channel caulked?
Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks,

Pete

Pete -

I am about to do this same thing.

What kind of grinder/sander did you use to sand the channel? Everything I have seems too big or clumsy (angle grinder) or not strong enough (handheld drill attachments) for such a small area.

What did you use for new pins? The screw-in type?

[242177P]

I was under the impression that structural strength (for unibody cars) was the reason they started using urethane...

[bigblue66]

Junkyard,

I used a couple of different tools. Some small wire wheels, a wire brush cup, and a small (air) die grinder with some of those 2" 3M pads. Those work really well.
As for the pins, I drilled new holes and used the screw-in kind that Ames Performance sells.

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by 242177P

I was under the impression that structural strength (for unibody cars) was the reason they started using urethane...

Could be...Kinda the same thing, ie. it's a much stronger adhesive than the butyl tape.

[GeeTeeOhh]

Regarding the pins for the clips - does location matter, and where in the Ames catalog are they? I assumed that replacment pins would be spot welded on. I am missing about (3) pins so will be needing replacements too.

[toddmoll]

The butyl tape is all that is needed. If you use the urethane sealant you will never get the window back out later without cracking it. As far as the clips go, they should be on the pins before installing the glass or some won't slip onto the pins afterward.

Todd.

[salem1912]

Bigblue just had w/s installed in my 67 used urethane caulk seals better and won't dry out -- have all clips in position

[salem1912]

Gee tee ohh if pin are missing you can secure with small sheet metal screws if you have a w/shield shop near show them a sample clip I have clips with screws mounted in them but they fit mopars

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by GeeTeeOhh

Regarding the pins for the clips - does location matter, and where in the Ames catalog are they? I assumed that replacment pins would be spot welded on. I am missing about (3) pins so will be needing replacements too.

I just matched the location to the other studs as far as spacing and distance from outer edge of the window opening. .
The clips and the screws are on the first page of section 6 in the Ames catalog. I'm sure PY has them too.
As for the urethane sealant, I have removed my back glass that had been installed at the factory and did not break it. It IS very difficult to remove with regular hand tools but it can be done with patience. The good thing about it is that mine was 30 years old and didn't have a bit of dry rot or leakage.
Unless your glass breaks, you'll probably never have to remove it.

[68alpinebluegto]

The caulking is especially great for filling thee lower rear window channel so that it no longer will HOLD water...that was the problem with them to begin with.. there was a large void that would hold large quantities of water and dirt and leaves which is why all of the things are rusted out in the sam area.

[Junkyard Dog]

Originally Posted by 68alpinebluegto

The caulking is especially great for filling thee lower rear window channel so that it no longer will HOLD water...that was the problem with them to begin with.. there was a large void that would hold large quantities of water and dirt and leaves which is why all of the things are rusted out in the sam area.

Wouldn't that interfere with installation of the chrome trim?

[mrrat1]

I was taking the chrome, and stainless off my 67 GTO. Previous owner had sealed the trim to the windshield and back glass with clear caulking. He also did the same around each wheel opening mouldings. Pain in the rear to remove, but it did a good job as there was no rust at all in those places. I mean none, I was amazed. As a side note about the windshield install, my Chevelle SS was done by a professional upon installing the thick chome trim the wipers sit on, the caulking on the glass is visible across the bottom, and looks like poop. I plan on removing glass and reinstalling. Any ideas?? I may put butyl on edge of glass instead of around channel. Thanks Dave K.

[bigblue66]

Mrrat1, I had the same problem with the install. The so-called "professional" didn't do a very neat job on laying the butyl tape and also made a mess with the caulk. I'm tempted to do the job over but it's not worth it since the trim covers 95% of the mess. As for putting the butyl tape on the window first, I thought of that too but it might make the window tough to handle during installation. It might be worth a try though - especially if you had some of those big suction cup handles and a friend with a good eye and steady hand helping place the windshield.

Pete

[janderson]

Originally Posted by 242177P

I was under the impression that structural strength (for unibody cars) was the reason they started using urethane...

Yes it does add to structural strength of vehicle but also functions as a back-up for the air-bags on later models when they are deployed.

I use butyl tape for the original look and then a small amout of the urethane that is covered by the moulding for a leak free install.

[Junkyard Dog]

Urethane is a backup for air bags? Huh?

[janderson]

Originally Posted by Junkyard Dog

Urethane is a backup for air bags? Huh?

Yes it is...windshield works as a backstop for the airbag, have removed windshields and re-glued as warranty issues. If you can sit in the seat and push out the windshield with your feet, its not installed properly.

[bigblue66]

Thought I'd close out(?) this thread by posting an update about the finished front windshield install. As you may remember from when the post began, I cleaned the windsheld channel of the RTV silicone patch job the previous owner tried (unsuccessfully) to apply to stop leaks. The channel wasn't too bad and only some minor rust and small holes which were cleaned up with POR 15 RestoMotive patch and then painted. I purchsed all new pins and clips from Ames and installed the pins in newly drilled holes. Installed the new windshield w/o clips using butly tape and also applied one tube of BetaSeal u-418 windsheld sealer around the glass while trying to stay clear of the pins by about 3/4" on each side.
After curing, I worked on the clips. What a PIA those things are. Seems there must be a better way to attach trim to a windshield. The clips were so tight that I had to open the "tongue" on each one (18 of them) slightly in order to get the trim on during a test fit with one piece. In addition, the small catch, or bump, on the back of each clip digs into the window channel paint. I could not get the trim into the clip without excessive force so I ended up threading a 80# piece of spiderwire (spectra fishing line) through the tiny hole at the top of each clip thus creating a loop that I could use to pull the clip away from the channel. At this point, with all the clips in place (with strings attached) I applied another tube of BetaSeal under the clips and around the rest of the channel - there is no way this windshield can leak - submarine windows aren't sealed this well! I cleaned up and polished all the trim molding and starting installing it. I had my son pull the clip open using the string attached to each one while I popped the trim into place behind the clip. Worked good but as I said we did scratch/chip paint in the windshield channel which is bad for more potential rust. When it was all in place we just snipped the spiderwire and pulled them out no problem.
Some of you may be asking "why didn't this idiot use the trim tool with the arrowhead?" Well, I tried - that tool really tears up the window channel and is also not that great because it's hard to grab the back of the clip to pull it away from the channel not to mention you need to be really careful not to chip the edge of the windshield with it.
Luckily the paint job on this car is so-so and we do plan to repaint in the next couple of years. If this was new paint I would be very pissed.
So, if you managed to get through this ridiculously long thread, maybe you can highlight the things I did wrong so others don't make the same stupid mistakes.

Thanks,

Pete