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#1
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Want to upgrade my 4speed shifter
I have an original hurst shifter on a Muncie m20 trans.i had it rebuilt along with the trans but not very happy with the way it shifts .seems to be hard to get into the gears .i heard about the short throw shifter ,any advice or suggestions
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#2
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It may just need adjustment?
Even if rebuilt, when put back on the linkages have to be adjusted just right for a smooth shift. A mis-adjusted throwout bearing can cause problems also. Service Manual shows how to adjust them.
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John Wallace - johnta1 Pontiac Power RULES !!! www.wallaceracing.com Winner of Top Class at Pontiac Nationals, 2004 Cordova Winner of Quick 16 At Ames 2004 Pontiac Tripower Nats KRE's MR-1 - 1st 5 second Pontiac block ever! "Every man has a right to his own opinion, but no man has a right to be wrong in his facts." "People demand freedom of speech to make up for the freedom of thought which they avoid." – Socrates |
#3
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My next step is to adjust the linkage. How can I tell if the throw out bearing is out of adjustment
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#4
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This is from Service Manual:
For me, the main thing is that the disc isn't still engaged when the clutch is fully pressed in. If it's hanging any amount, it will keep the tranny shaft rotating making it harder to get in next gear. If you know how to shift without the clutch, it would shift good.
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John Wallace - johnta1 Pontiac Power RULES !!! www.wallaceracing.com Winner of Top Class at Pontiac Nationals, 2004 Cordova Winner of Quick 16 At Ames 2004 Pontiac Tripower Nats KRE's MR-1 - 1st 5 second Pontiac block ever! "Every man has a right to his own opinion, but no man has a right to be wrong in his facts." "People demand freedom of speech to make up for the freedom of thought which they avoid." – Socrates |
#5
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Shifter Adjustment:
__________________
John Wallace - johnta1 Pontiac Power RULES !!! www.wallaceracing.com Winner of Top Class at Pontiac Nationals, 2004 Cordova Winner of Quick 16 At Ames 2004 Pontiac Tripower Nats KRE's MR-1 - 1st 5 second Pontiac block ever! "Every man has a right to his own opinion, but no man has a right to be wrong in his facts." "People demand freedom of speech to make up for the freedom of thought which they avoid." – Socrates |
#6
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You are a great help, this is a great hobby because of guys with your knowledge and care
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#7
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all that info is in the FSM(factory service manual)
buy a reprint of it(its cheap) Its amazing how much info is in it. Get one for the year and model you are working on.
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Everything comes and goes Pleasure moves on too early And trouble leaves too slow |
#8
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Again with this type of reply. READ the question
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#9
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"hard to get into gears" won't be fixed by a shorter throw.
this comes down to spending sufficient time on getting the geometry just right. My opinion is that the rubber factory shifter grommets are a part of the shifter issues; This is where an aftermarket Hurst Competition Plus really shines; With a HCP shifter you can use the original style plastic(?) bushings, or go with steel bushings. I have swapped parts between aftermarket and OEM shifter to have a factory housing and lever with the HCP gear selectors to eliminate the rubber bushings in favor of the aftermarket style. So, if you get the rods nailed just right with the correct levers (or the levers you have), the only upgrade that will really make any discernable improvement from that point is to go with a factory-aftermarket hybrid shifter. The net result is a much more solid shifter feel, with the only down side being you will feel more drivetrain vibration through the shifter.
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1970 Formula 400 Carousel Red paint on Black standard interior A no-engine, no-transmission, no-wheel option car. Quite likely one of few '70 Muncie three speed Formula 400's left. 1991 Grand Am: 14.4 @ 93.7mph (DA corrected) (retired DD, stock appearing) 2009 Cobalt SS: 13.9 @ 103mph (current DD; makes something north of 300hp & 350ft/lbs) |
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