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#1
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New timing set little off
I put in a new timing chain and gears. They don’t line up as perfectly as the one I took off. Will this have the engine more advanced or retarded. Reason I ask is while it was running I basically had to have dist advance can jammed up against the firewall. So if I gotta turn that anymore in the firewall direction I can’t. If I’ll have to move the dist counter clockwise moving the canister away from the firewall that’d be great. The blue dots are the new timing Set.
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#2
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You should be able to line that up better. Line them up on the bench with the chain around it. Squeeze the chain together in the middle real hard. Then keep squeezing and start putting the crank gear on and then gradually ease up until the cam gear is on.
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" Is wearing a helmet illegal" Mike Kerr 1-29-09 |
#3
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That appears to be off 1 tooth on the top gear.
You'll want them lined up much better than that.
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#4
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Reason I ask is while it was running I basically had to have dist advance can jammed up against the firewall. You can pull your distributor out and drop it in where ever you want really, but you gotta know what your doing.
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68 Firebird. IA2 block, 505 cu in, SD Performance E-head, Solid roller 3600 weight. Reid TH400 4:11 gear. 29" slick. Best so far 9.95@134 mph. 1.43 60 ft. 76 Trans am, TKX .81 o/d, 3.73 Moser rearend, 468 with KRE D-ports, Doug headers, 3" Exh. |
#5
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I would have kept the Morse chain and gave the other one to the next door neighbors kid for his bicycle. Not sureprised it doesn't line up well, those "low end" roller set are garbage right to start with.......
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If you can read this, thank a teacher. If you can read this in English, thank a Veteran! https://cliffshighperformance.com/ 73 Ventura, SOLD 455, 3740lbs, 11.30's at 120mph, 1977 Pontiac Q-jet, HO intake, HEI, 10" converter, 3.42 gears, DOT's, 7.20's at 96mph and still WAY under the roll bar rule. Best ET to date 7.18 at 97MPH (1/8th mile), |
#6
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There's multiple machining operations that all have to be "right" to get everything aligned.
Fixing misalignment is probably going to involve replacing improperly-machined parts, OR getting clever with offset keys or offset bushings, depending on what's easier/cheaper/faster. FIRST thing I'd do is to install a degree wheel and a piston stop, to find REAL TDC for #1. THEN determine via cam position whether that's the compression or exhaust stroke. Doesn't matter which...as long as you know and take that into account when dropping the distributor in place after making sure the cam is properly synchronized to the crank. Getting the cam synch'd to the crank is called "degreeing the cam" and requires a dial indicator set-up riding on a lifter on the #1 cam lobes. Worthwhile to verify on #6 as well--don't have to move the degree wheel, and you test both banks, one cylinder at the front of the block and one near the rear. Putting a cam in "dot-to-dot" is just lazy, and invites problems when stuff doesn't line up like it should--and doesn't get caught and corrected. |
#7
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Its not even dot to dot its a tooth or 2 off sorry no cigar.
dist ? rotate wires in the cap to the next post or 2 to give can clearance... you dont want him pulling a dist
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If your not at the table you're on the menu A man who falls for everything stands for nothing. |
#8
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Your cam is one tooth advanced.
That works out to 20 degrees and there’s no cam or crank offset key that’s going to fix that . Please forget about the dizzy for now and put it back together right and use a degree wheel to confirm the cam is ground right.
__________________
Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs! And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs! 1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set. Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks. 1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes. Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph. Education is what your left with once you forget things! |
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