[scott70]

If you set the clearance at .010 are you pretty much eliminating bleed off and making them act like a standard HFT or how does that work?

[Jay S]

There is still quite a bit of bleed off at .010”. There is actually more bleed of going from zero lash to .010”, than their is going from .010” to .020”. It is because there is more acceleration as the tappet gets pushed further open. I like running them at .010”, they are quieter.

[77 TRASHCAN]

Jay, I believe you have used the V-Pro lifters, also???
Got any words about them???

[Jay S]

The only time you would really require a Vmax over a Vpro is if your are running a lot of lash, .030” or more. The last several sets I have done were Vpro. I think the only difference is the Vpro have a thicker shim. With the lash set same I can’t tell a difference.

[scott70]

Ok...I noticed in the instructions on the vmax that if you are experiencing detonation that you can tighten them up to no less than 010. I think I set mine originally. 015.

[Jay S]

If there is an issue with detonation and the combo needs as much action as you can for low end manors or vacuum for brakes tighten the intake only. You can go down to .005” on the lash on the intake, can even zero lash them cold if you want. Set only the exh side wider.

[Jay S]

If the lifters were set cold that .015” is probably pushing .020” hot. People often blame the oil viscosity for the change in noise when the engine gets hot, which is true for the original Rhoads. Because of the way the lifter is shimmed, with the V type most of the extra (sowing machine sound) noise comes from the expansion rate of the engine increasing the lash once hot. Zero cold on a Vmax is more or less the similar to .005” hot.

[scott70]

Yes that was set cold. When I first start it up its pretty quiet for quite a while but after a while of driving I can here the sewing machine sound at stoplights. I run 15w 40 oil. Right now the power brakes seem to work good all the time. So I could go .005 on the intake and .010 on the exhaust cold?
So rotate until lifter is on the lobe base,,insert feeler between rocker tip and valve tip,,tighten until valve starts to open ,,tighten rocker stud nut set screw? Something like that. That is supposed to push the center of the lifter all the way down away from the top retainer clip. Easier to visually see with valley pan off but Im not pulling all that to have a visual.