[jakes1970ta]

Time to send the Tach Speedo Cluster and the Fuel Gauge Cluster out for restoration. Looking at Instrument Specialties in Rhode Island and D&M in South Carolina to name a couple. Comments and suggestions appreciated. Thx!!

[Ramairnacho]

Following but was referred to redline guaged by my friend Greg. I plan on having speedonrebuolt and getting a 8 grand tac calibrated along with others like oil volts fuel temp plus new circuit board and lights.

[MDSHARK81]

Is it like a fiber optic to bring light from the bulb, down to ashtry?

[Gator67]

I used autoinstruments.com for my 70 TA about 5-6 years ago. They did a fantastic job. Fairly quick turn around at that time. I think I dealt with a guy named Gentry.

[MDSHARK81]

Any update from Jake or RamAirnacho? Who did you go with, and how were the results? I’m looking at H&H auto electrical (Tachman) in South Carolina or D&M also in South Carolina. Any other input would be appreciated. Especially if someone used the above mentioned shops.

[jakes1970ta]

I went with Instrument Specialties in Rhode Island. Cluster came back better than new. Amazing work. Mailed them in and about a week later got a call with price and timeline

[MDSHARK81]

Update post: I sent my gauge cluster to Redline Gauge Works in Santa Clarita, Ca. Spoke with Shannon ( he was great). They did a Tach movement replace with modern step motor. This required the addition of a 12v power wire. They also did a quartz clock movement conversion as well. My gauges were in great condition so no cosmetic work was necessary. Installed this weekend. Gauges work great!!! Tach is rock solid!!! Pretty quick turnaround and the customer service was great. They always pick up the phone and answer all questions. Thanks RamAir for the recommendation!!!

[Baba O'Riley]

Originally Posted by MDSHARK81

Update post: I sent my gauge cluster to Redline Gauge Works in Santa Clarita, Ca. Spoke with Shannon ( he was great). They did a Tach movement replace with modern step motor. This required the addition of a 12v power wire. They also did a quartz clock movement conversion as well. My gauges were in great condition so no cosmetic work was necessary. Installed this weekend. Gauges work great!!! Tach is rock solid!!! Pretty quick turnaround and the customer service was great. They always pick up the phone and answer all questions. Thanks RamAir for the recommendation!!!

Taking my gauge cluster up to Redline today to go over options. The tach on my '71 has two small terminals in the upper corner. it actually worked for a couple days after the MSD dist. went in, so I thought it was okay. But nooooooo. I'd like to get the clock working in mine as well.

[Baba O'Riley]

Originally Posted by MDSHARK81

Update post: I sent my gauge cluster to Redline Gauge Works in Santa Clarita, Ca. Spoke with Shannon ( he was great). They did a Tach movement replace with modern step motor. This required the addition of a 12v power wire. They also did a quartz clock movement conversion as well.

Met Shannon at Redline today. He's great -- super-knowledgeable, patient with questions, just very helpful overall. He knew exactly what I was trying to tell him about the MSD distributor.

So on my '71, Redline is going to put new movements in the tach and clock. The dash circuit is de-laminating, so they'll replace that as well. Plus -- I've been getting some bizarre readings with my oil pressure / water temp gauge. Oil pressure reads the exact same low number it did before the motor was rebuilt in the fall, and it barely moves on hard revving. The temp jumps way up just after startup but a surface thermometer verifies there's no such overheating. Shannon showed me how the needles move on this gauge when it is simply tilted, he says that's a bad sign... he recommended I just have a new unit put in. Finally, he'll clean the old grease and debris out of the speedo head to hopefully get it running smooth and quiet.

I'm fine with the appearance of the cluster as it is, so there won't be anything done there.

Going to get the replacement parts tomorrow then deliver everything to Redline in a day or two.

[MDSHARK81]

Wow, Great info…..Never knew they used fiber optics on T/A’s ( other than the prism for wiper/light switch)……Learn something new everyday!!!! Great info here!!!

Thank You

[unruhjonny]

Looks very nice!!

Did they (accidentally?) change your clock knob?
it looks like the first picture has the correct black (two piece) one;
The third and fourth clearly show a later chrome knob.

[jakes1970ta]

My knob was broken off when I sent it in. The clock has been changed out to a quartz clock.

[srmmmm]

D & M did mine and included moving the redline up on the tach

Everything is working fine except for inconsistencies with the tach, but I think it's a dirty signal from the MSD distributer. That gremlin is being chased out now.

Appearance wise they looked brand new though. I'd use him again.

[grd777]

Originally Posted by srmmmm

D & M did mine and included moving the redline up on the tach

Everything is working fine except for inconsistencies with the tach, but I think it's a dirty signal from the MSD distributer. That gremlin is being chased out now.

Appearance wise they looked brand new though. I'd use him again.

have the same issue with my tach let me know how you make out

[70GS455]

Originally Posted by grd777

have the same issue with my tach let me know how you make out

If it's the MSD 6AL box and your using the dedicated grey tach wire, the issue could be the tach. That signal is a 20% duty cycle square wave, which means it's 80% dwell, or 36 deg dwell. The factory tach will have trouble with 80% dwell as the rpms climb. There are those of us that have modern circuitry available that handle large variations in dwell very well.

[MDSHARK81]

Originally Posted by 70GS455

If it's the MSD 6AL box and your using the dedicated grey tach wire, the issue could be the tach. That signal is a 20% duty cycle square wave, which means it's 80% dwell, or 36 deg dwell. The factory tach will have trouble with 80% dwell as the rpms climb. There are those of us that have modern circuitry available that handle large variations in dwell very well.

Who is “us”, and what are the “modern cricuits” of which you speak?

[srmmmm]

Originally Posted by grd777

have the same issue with my tach let me know how you make out

Tach checked out OK. Circuit board had been changed out to accept the MSD billet signal. Issue turned out to be harness connections not being clean and fully secured. All harnesses on the car were NOS but I imagine there might still have been some dust or light corrosion built up during 40+ years of storage.

[Ramairnacho]

Originally Posted by srmmmm

D & M did mine and included moving the redline up on the tach

Everything is working fine except for inconsistencies with the tach, but I think it's a dirty signal from the MSD distributer. That gremlin is being chased out now.

Appearance wise they looked brand new though. I'd use him again.

I am.in the process of restoring my 1970 formula and was told by a redline guages tech that msd or hei will not work on a standard rebuilt tac it must be completely upgraded., but petronix or pints will work fine. I would find out if they did the stock rebuilt on your 1 wire tac or upgraded the tac. If it's a one year only 1 wire tac I would leave alone and either put points back in or get a 8 grand 71-75 2 wire one and have that one upgraded. you can trouble shoot it too by putting points distributor in it and see how tac operates before doing all that. I'm surprised the restoration company didn't mention any of this to you. Also cover the back of the tac center where factory aluminum tape was if not already done when all issues are resolved. There is a magnetic field there that will attract dust and metal fibers and could damage tac. I'm no expert but ask questions and listen. Just trying to help.

[70GS455]

Originally Posted by Ramairnacho

I am.in the process of restoring my 1970 formula and was told by a redline guages tech that msd or hei will not work on a standard rebuilt tac it must be completely upgraded., but petronix or pints will work fine. I would find out if they did the stock rebuilt on your 1 wire tac or upgraded the tac. If it's a one year only 1 wire tac I would leave alone and either put points back in or get a 8 grand 71-75 2 wire one and have that one upgraded. you can trouble shoot it too by putting points distributor in it and see how tac operates before doing all that. I'm surprised the restoration company didn't mention any of this to you. Also cover the back of the tac center where factory aluminum tape was if not already done when all issues are resolved. There is a magnetic field there that will attract dust and metal fibers and could damage tac. I'm no expert but ask questions and listen. Just trying to help.

Depending on whose circuitry is inside the tach, an HEI will work, it's just the voltage stresses are higher and the circuit components need to be selected to handle it properly. An MSD box is a challenge because of the high dwell, but a well designed tach circuit should not have any problems.

[MDSHARK81]

I too am restoring my 1st 2nd gen F body. I am learning everyday of the many 1 or two year only parts and processes that were used on our cars. My car being a 71 would also have the one wire tach. My attention now being turned to debugging and getting all systems operational. This unfortunately includes a non operational Tach ( was working prior to restoration). It must have been “handled too much”.

My question to GS455 or any of the others who repair auto electronics either as a hobby or commercial business is do you just replace the 1 wire tach guts to get them to operate with points only? or Do you convert the 1 wire movement to a 2 wire later movement? In which case I think I would use a donor later tach as not to ruin an original one. Just looking at options. Trying to complete the car and have an operating tach, among other things. I would like to find a repair shop familiar with the early cars like ours. My preference would be to send out the whole cluster to repair the clock and tach, as well as test and calibrate the other gauges in the cluster. I appreciate any and all input about your experiences with repair shops.