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#1
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New Trunk Weatherstrip Install
But before I install the new, I have to safely remove the old W/S. The paint is nice so can't use any chemicals too strong. Any recommendations as to what methodology has worked well for you guys?
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#2
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Try Goo off
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#3
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Use a heat gun from the underside
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#4
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The GM seal changed over they years, possibly supplier rather than improvements, but even while it was rubber, latex coated, hollow in different areas, solid sponge or rope core, it still had the same part number, often a couple depending on length of seal. As in, it still didn't tell you what version you were getting, or what was used during production line use.
Hollow seals have benefits but haven't seen anyone actually give feedback on a comparison to the regular rubber seal they are still slamming to try and close. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Red80TA For This Useful Post: | ||
#5
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3M makes a product specifically for this, doesnt harm paint & will soften up the old glue so you can wipe it off with a rag or usually a little more effort with a old toothbrush or nylon brush. Should be able to just pull off the old W/S or try heat from underside but be careful, too much heat will damage the paint.
I have some of the 3M left and can get the part# if needed. |
#6
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Quote:
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#7
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The can I have is 3m general purpose adhesive cleaner #08987. That # might be older, the current stuff I see online is part# 08984, probably have it in smaller cans at local auto stores or auto paint suppliers.
Follow instructions on the can & it works great & should not damage the paint, Ive used it on numerous trunk weatherstrips as well as T top channels. |
#8
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Precision trunk seal is what 1A use in video. It is the same seal supplied to Classic, OER and similar places. The bags are labelled everywhere about being registered in the US, it is made in Taiwan.....or TW, as it says in tiny letters.
This is the type used, it is not F-body type/size being sold by others, they all seem to fit the same 1/2" channel so swapping around works. https://catalog.prp.com/images/Websi...1_SA_LGE-2.jpg This is the listing for Precision 70-81 F body seal. https://catalog.prp.com/images/Websi...0_SA_LGE-2.jpg And then many others list either and to suit all models GM. I have the Precision K3020 here, same that is labelled for Classic or OER etc, and is the standard 1" tall type, taller than both of the other versions. So rather than selecting a brand or shop that says it fits your model, you may need to request a particular part number. How tall was stock GM, production era? How easily did it compress, or seal? These seals are probably all fine, in their own application, but if hard to close the lid on these vehicles you generally need a softer version of same, or shorter version in height, or combination of both. Just to remain confusing, here's another cross-section that claims to be the same thing. 1" tall which is fairly standard and generic. But 3/8" base. What's the channel size on a Firebird? I don't have access to one here. Is it meant to be a snug fit or are the larger sizes perhaps compressed slightly to fit? The K3020 bag I have here is halfway between the 3/8 and 1/2" wide at base, but also tapered as it goes up. https://www.steelerubber.com/trunk-w...rip-82-0028-84 Last edited by Red80TA; 02-14-2024 at 01:11 AM. |
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#9
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3060942 is the shorter version of the 9825829 seal, 13' vs 25'.
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#10
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Shorter version, no string, plastic lower stiffener and much taller than the original assembly line part. Still better though than some of the repros.
IIRC, that number was made in Canada. |
#11
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Please , please, Verify the Shape ( cross section) is the exact same, and same size. There are a ton of not so good repops, including late 80's GM stuff.
__________________
"The Future Belongs to those who are STILL Willing to get their Hands Dirty" .. my Grandfather |
#12
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I was able to cut some clean cross sections from my old molding and only the Ames FK201C matches pretty closely, but is a simple extrusion, not coated and noticeably less soft. Any more ideas on finding a more accurate product? |
#13
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__________________
1970 Formula 400 Carousel Red paint on Black standard interior A no-engine, no-transmission, no-wheel option car. Quite likely one of few '70 Muncie three speed Formula 400's left. 1991 Grand Am: 14.4 @ 93.7mph (DA corrected) (retired DD, stock appearing) 2009 Cobalt SS: 13.9 @ 103mph (current DD; makes something north of 300hp & 350ft/lbs) |
#14
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If you actually read my reply you'd see I was clarifying the details that were in the video, the brand and the part number used. Or just guess since part numbers don't matter. The crucial height, wasn't even crucial enough to mention, so I did.
That's where it is pointed out that the seal used was not even one for F bodies. So again, a part number is handy or you won't find it. That is assuming you only want it based on the height. So I added their other 2 common sizes as well, the last of which is used by everyone. Or just rely on vague suggestions of limited detail but still expect an exact and calculated result. Last edited by Red80TA; 02-14-2024 at 01:09 PM. |
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#15
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__________________
"The Future Belongs to those who are STILL Willing to get their Hands Dirty" .. my Grandfather |
#16
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And make sure it installs the correct way, don't trust what just came out as being correct.
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#17
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Wondering what the factory spec was for the location of the trunk weatherstrip seam (where the ends meet)? My seam is located at a 2 o’clock position, which so far has avoided moisture accumulation at the typical 6 o’clock location. Anyone have a picture of an original seal installation for reference?
__________________
1965 2+2 Convertible 421 HO 4-spd 3x2 8 Lugs 1968 GTO Convertible 400 AC Bench Seat Column Shift - Sold |
#18
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If not doing a NOS type resto, Ive had very good results with the Metro brand trunk seal, door seals too, looks & fits nice & has held up for almost 15 years & counting. |
#19
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__________________
1965 2+2 Convertible 421 HO 4-spd 3x2 8 Lugs 1968 GTO Convertible 400 AC Bench Seat Column Shift - Sold |
#20
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My experience is primary with 'F' and 'A' bodies, so may be different for your app. However in every case the end seams have been near the 6 o'clock position. And by 'near' I mean usually a bit to the left of center.
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