[Bentwheelbob]

I am referring to the the spring steel tang on the back of the main knob as a "lock" because that's what it does - locks the knob on the shaft. Between the main knob and the either of the tone/balance auxiliary knobs there should also be a light gauge coil spring designed to keep pressure on the auxiliary knobs.

Danger/Overload....?

[OVERULD]

OK, got the knobs off. There is a locking tab on both knobs, and there was a light gauge steel coil spring behind the tuning knob but not the on/off/volume knob. See pics.



Now I need help on how to disconnect he electrical connection on the power window switch. Does it just pull straight down or do I need to remove the two screws that go through the switch? See pics





Thanks
BJ


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[Held for Ransom]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

Danger/Overload....?

Yes, BJ indicated all this was making him dangerous. The next step is overload.

And, one can call the pieces whatever they want, I don't care.

There should have been a silver spring between each knob assy. and bezel.

[OVERULD]

Mission Accomplished! Original radio. Date code 113073


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[OVERULD]

Thanks for the tips and help!


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[Held for Ransom]

Cool. I don't remember an ink date on any of mine. There was a 4 digit date code on the capacitors or whatever those are on the back.

[Bentwheelbob]

The power window switch connection is just a standard male/female connector. The male portion is just straight pins and the harness simply unplugs from the switch. Leave the screws alone. You'll likely need to use a slotted screwdriver to start separating the connection because the fit is usually very tight. Just gently pry around the circumference of the switch.

[OVERULD]

Thanks Bob. Now that I have the console out, Mission Creep is setting in once again! Now I need to decide whether to replace it or leave it in to tell its story. See video. Also, I need to figure out what goes in that big gap between the AC duct and the air box. Whatever was there just disintegrated into a fine powdery dust. Think it was a piece off foam rubber.

https://youtu.be/-pb2SyzY0xs

BJ



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[77 Canamman]

I just replaced the RH lower A/C duct on my 1977. I used this material, which is very similar to the OE closed cell foam that turned to dust..







I used this to glue the seal to the duct:

[/QUOTE]

[77 Canamman]

I see that your lower duct is damaged, as mine was. A lot of air leaked from it. The Parts Place duct worked fine for me, but some other have reported a crappy fit.

As for the console, I'd replace it with a new one, dyed to the correct color. They aren't hard to replace, and it would look fantastic once completed.

[OVERULD]

Since I have the console removed while the radio is out for refurbishment, I have decided to go ahead and replace the console and the gear selection indicator panel.

I've found repop consoles at Year One, Firebird Central, and NPD. Has anyone had any experience with these or others? Whose is best? What do I need to order other than the console? I plan to reuse the front and rear inserts and the lid.

I don't see an option for ordering a console with the cut-out for the power windows switch, will I have to do that myself?

Here are some pics of my gear select panel. I can't seem to find the right part to replace it. Anyone else already slain this dragon?









Thanks
BJ


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[Bentwheelbob]

BJ - Call me before you move forward on your console. Today after 5:00 would be fine.

304.859.7509.

.

[77 Canamman]

Most of the NOS shift plates have the late font on the gear selector. Here is a more correct one:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/NOS-70-71-72-...1ZS1fp&vxp=mtr



The grain appears to be different than your original. GM changed parts throughout the production run.

[OVERULD]

Here is an update on the console and radio. Decided to buy a good quality original console (thanks for the lead Bob!) and will re-dye to match my interior. I also got a new shifter bezel and front pocket from Ames. Theirs seemed to have the best match with the original pebble grain. I looked at an NOS on ebay, but the grain didn't match.

I got a call from the radio refurbisher today who told me that my radio worked just fine on the bench test. They replaced the red stereo indicator light and repaired the AM/FM dial rotation issue, added an MP3 jack with a cable that I can run to the front pocket or console, and replaced a few known high-fail components. All for $194 including return shipping. Not Bad. But now I need some help on how to trouble shoot the no-sound issue. Is there a way to test the front speaker with out tearing the dash out? Any good suggestions for how to troubleshoot the wiring and speakers? I know how to ohm out wires to check for continuity, but a wiring diagram would help. I have a front and rear speaker.

Thanks!

BJ

[unruhjonny]

you shouldn't need to pull the dash out;
There is a little bracket that I believe uses a 5/16" head screw;
the bracket lips in at the front (firewall side), and when you remove the screw it should pivot out of the way.

the speaker will pretty much fall out with the bracket...
if you got the radio out, the speaker should be super easy!

[OVERULD]

Now that I have the radio out, and the AC ducts out, I can access the front speaker. In the event it is bad, I would rather replace it before the radio and all the AC duct goes back in. Who has a good link or source for a good exact fit OEM style replacement? My bracket is fine - just hedging my bets. HFR has been helping me with some speaker trouble-shooting tips and I will try to do that tomorrow after work. My radio should be back from the restoration shop tomorrow and I will try it first, but in the even that I have bad speakers, I will need to move quickly on finding good replacements.

BJ

[unruhjonny]

anes should sell one;
i bought an exact fit dual speaker (i do not intend to run one in the rear dash) for my car from classic industries...

The Ames listings seem confusing (dashes changed to dual front speakers in 1981, but as far as I know, the front (single) speajer was 1970-1980;
Ames "OEM" 10ohm front speaker: FM405

The one I bought from CI was S6002V - and it came with a replacement braket, which is nice because iirc the original front speaker have a rectangular shaped magnet...
It appears as though Ames' equivalent to what I bought (exact same part??) is FM128F.

Classic Industries California warehouse/showroo is a short drive from my mom's place...

[Held for Ransom]

http://www.forums.maxperformanceinc....d.php?t=808396

Copied a manual and posted it.

[vitamin c]

company called turnswitch sells replacement speakers in the correct ohms and shape for your application.

[OVERULD]

MPR came by today to pick up the new console to be dyed. We got to looking at the door panels and sail panels and trying to match colors to spray out cards and determined that we had multiple colors at play.

Just how many different shades can one car interior have and which is correct?




After spending two hours removing all the interior panels so we can get them all matching correctly, here is MPR's thoughtful response to my reminder of him telling me how much fun it would be to work on "that old Firebird" one night over Bourbon before I bought it.


So, now that the interior is pretty much gutted except for the two front seats, and in view of the nasty 43 year-old carpet...I've decided to go ahead and pull the two front seats and put in new carpet. I'll get some good upholstery cleaner and give the seats and door panels a good cleaning while they are all removed.

Here is a link to the carpet I'm considering. http://www.firebirdcentral.com/1970_...p/int-1151.htm

They show a Medium Saddle color and a Dark Brown. Which would you suggest for this interior. Anyone have experience with this carpet? Any other suggested sources?

Thanks to Photobucket's boneheaded decision, here are a couple photos of the interior as it is now.






BJ


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