Quote:
Originally Posted by JLMounce
To piggy back on that, you also want the large wheels. The added hoop diameter starts putting suspension components of these cars inside the wheel, which gives you more clearance to run wider wheels and more rubber. Options for performance tires for 15" wheels are basically non-existent, except for drag race stuff.
If your goal is handling and all you ever want to run on these cars is a typical 235/55/15, there's no reason to spend thousands on suspension at all. Put a half inch tall ball joint in the stock upper control arm, add a sway bar and some decent shocks and call it good. The tire's limitation makes going any further than that a bad ROI. Once you get into 17" plus wheel sizing the tires you have available to you become worlds better. I know that not everyone likes the look of big wheels on these classics, but it really is a case of form following function.
|
Every option out there takes you down a rabbit hole where you start weighing your options while the price goes up$$$. Then you have to take a step back and rethink the whole thing when you see a full kit north of 6K.
If you want C5 brakes, 17/18" rims, and a certain level stance and corrected geometry. How many option do I have to get there?
For the brakes, do you go with spindles that accept C5 brakes or just user your stock spindle with a bracket conversion?
For the stance, do you keep it simple with drop springs or do you pay up for adjustable coil overs?
For the upper/lower A-arms you can spend many hours looking into if they have geometry correction. Some use tall BJ and some have added caster. Some don't have any at all. Lowers arms are the same way.
For the spindles, if you decide to go aftermarket do you go with a lowering spindle? I believe most are a tall spindles so you don't need the tall BJ.
Then in the end you don't know if its all going to play well together, depending on what route you took. You may end up with horrible bump steer, rims don't fit, tire rub or a horrible ride.